benl1981

bump

anyone?

Interesting. Maybe I should take off the calipers and see if when I spin it I still get the rumble. Thanks for the idea. Spins very free though. More so than the other side that is not noisy..like in my corolla, the bearings were a lot stiffer once I put the new ones in..i.e. the wheel was not as free spinning.

I think I have located a rumbly (noisy) wheel bearing in my R33 gtst (friont passenger side). In previous cars I have taken the hub off and got a mechanic to put the new bearing in. I had a look today and I can take off the steering arm, strut etc off. But I was just wondering if when poeple take the hub off they disconnect the whole steering axis pivot aswell, hence having to diconnect from top wishbone. Or do you disconnect at this point. There are covers etc so I didn't want to muck around. Is there a manual that would explain this How long does getting the hub off take and what do you end up with in your hand ...ie. the whole bit where the hub rotates around and the bit that blts to top wishbone ..or not? Thanks

Has nobody pulled a hub off themselves to replace a wheel bearing? Ican't find a post on it I have an R33 engine manual on pdf but not the manual ANybody got any pages that could help me. Thanks

I think I have located a rumbly (noisy) wheel bearing in my R33 gtst (friont passenger side). In previous cars I have taken the hub off and got a mechanic to put the new bearing in. I had a look today and I can take off the steering arm, strut etc off. But I was just wondering if when poeple take the hub off they disconnect the whole steering axis pivot aswell, hence having to diconnect from top wishbone. Or do you disconnect at this point. There are covers etc so I didn't want to muck around. Is there a manual that would explain this How long does getting the hub off take and what do you end up with in your hand ...ie. the whole bit where the hub rotates around and the bit that blts to top wishbone ..or not? Thanks

yeah just take the risk on the aftermarket one. Should be ok

on this note I have a similar question. I have an amp in my boot but I would like to use the ignition "on" as my trigger for the amp. Would there be a wire I can tap into in the boot somewhere for this. I have RCA noise which I will have to re route the wires to correct. I currenty have them run through the back seat through the side plastic bits on the floor that lift up but then routed in underneath drivers seat around console, though I think the wires for the stacker run here - hence causing the interference

take your gear knob off and your ash tray out - there are a couple of bolts there too. then you can take out the interior over the gear stick shaft. If the smell is more eminent then and smeels like the smell you were concerned about then it is from the gearbox.

I put a new aftermarket clutch master cylinder in a corolla - it lasted about 5000kjm then gave up. Got an exchange as it was faulty - still a pain to change again. The next one was fine. But although this is not relevant to you, when the mechanics pulled apart the leaking 5000km old cylinder they found what looked like old fluid inside and tried to blame me at first for not using new fluid. Turns out when they manufacture them they put some assembly oil in there so the seals dont dry out when they are on the shelves or shipping etc. Maybe the guys that resleeved yours put some kind of different oil inside. Not sure Hard to know which way to go I guess..cheap aftermarket or resleeve old one.

Thanks for the advice. I was only hoping to go to 10psi. But really I just wanted to not have the solenoid earthed all the time and have some adjustability there. I'll let you know how I go with the $15 needle valve. Do you guys have pressure gauges with peak hold on them? I was just going to pick up a cheap pressure gauge to verify that I'm not running too much boost when I play with the boost levels.

Sorry to deviate a little - but sk, when you put that 1-1.5mm boostrestrictor/pressure leveler in the hose that bleeds air back into turbo inlet (where solenoid used to be) did the boost spike much? I hear people with pneumatic boost controllers having 1-2psi spike. I was going to replace the solenoid with a simple needle valve so I dont wreck the solenoid and then I can adjust boost to 10psi. This should have the same result as you putting this orifice type piece in that hose I would imagine except the hole size would then be adjustable, hence contolling how much air is bled and hence the boost the engine sees. I just dont want boost to spike too much if possible.

Just need something that reads to 1 bar or just over. As long as it is fairly accurate $20 - $30 range. Thanks

Hi there, I have an R33 gtst sedan and put new kyb shocks in the rear, handles a lt better. A friend at work recently got a r33 coupe all stock. (i think standard shocks at the rear and spring) but it feels a lot harder when you push each rear corner. Does anybody know if the sedan came with softer rear springs for a smotther ride? Thanks

Milan seems really helpful. Apparently gets a few skylines from Hillsmotorsports and UAS I think. M & C ZEC AUTOMOTIVES 29/ 8 Victoria Ave Castle Hill 2154 (02) 9680 1691 Fax (02) 9899 2636

so where isd the cheapest to get it? thanks

does anybody know a blue slip mechanic in Sydney that knows skylines. I need to get an adjustment of records for my R33 sedan. THe weight is wrong on the rego papers putting inot the next category - it is 1580kg on the paper

Thank 3 LIT - good advice. I will check the way you say. The fronts I checked and one seems quite noisy when youu spin the wheel by hand. The one that is noisy is the one that is most free. I replaced front wheel bearings on my corolla - though there was more vibration - and it seems odd that this is only really bad between 70km/gh and 80km/h. Hope it isnt there rear ones as I read somewhere might need to replace the hub.. tnaks again

Some are midas are good some bad. my dad put his van in to one. They replaced the rear brake shoes but couldnt adjust the park brake so it worked. My dad went back with it and they mucked around for an hour or so without fixing it - and with a van time is money couldnt afford for them to stuff around. I was hoping to get info off other here. If I jack the rear of the car and put it in 4th and get to 70km/h with wheels off the ground I should hear a dodgy rear wheel bearing right. I checked my fronts and the passenger one is a lot more free and makes more noise than the drivers side one when I spin the wheel.

I dont know if I trust midas but I might get another mechanic to look at it.

I've got a similar drone from around 70km/h to 80km/h but then it goes. Rear wheel bearing you think or maybe fron? My passenger side front makes a bit of noise when you spin the wheel when car is off the ground, I havent checked the rear as yet? It's a bit annoying because it's the speed driven at the most I didnt think it was a bearing because its only at that small range of speeds and doesnt get noisier when you go round corners...

Anybody know where to find it to dload? I found a thread but the links didn't seem to work thanks

what kind of fuel efficiency benefit would one expect from this. I currently get around the 11-13L/100ks for an R33 manual. I can hear it pop a little on back off as if it is a little rich. A 2.5 should get about 10L/100 with mild driving right if you do this mod right and get it tuned on the dyno with EG analyser. Can you play with it a little yourself without putting it on dyno?

im pretty sure when I tested the grounding signal from the ECU it was at 4500rpm that it completed the circuit. i.e. sending the signal to the Solenoid to open. I also thought the signal stayed till revs dropped below 4500rpm. Maybe I'm wrong. Thanks for the clarification on the restrictor

so that restrictor in the hose from the intercooler is the one you have utilised. So it is only coincedence that it ends up to be the right hole size to bypass enough air to hold 7-8psi like the solenoid. As far as I can tell thesolenoid has an ECU triggered negative. Isn't it either open or shut.