benl1981

OK Sk. I understand that but the restrictor you're talking about - is it in this tube or is this another one - looks like more than 1.25mm in the flesh though. [/img] So mine was boosting too much because I didnt have the restrictor on the to turbo inlet hose i..e too much was escaping. - But I still had it in the hose from inlet. Does the boost solenoid know how much to bleed or is there the restrictor here that I dont know about? Many thanks

Hey Sk in reference to your 0.5 bar solution on Page 2. I have had a few probs. This is how I put it together at first. The restrictor you are talking about is standard in the first hose from inlet pipe to T piece right? see pic please: So I left that in, the only thing I changed was I put the outlet of the solenoid straight onto the T piece (the one that flows back into turbo) Boost then rose to 3/4 on the stock gauge (where I would back off) whereas before I just had a constant earth on the sloenoid I was just above 1/2 What I think is the standard solenoid or in one of those smaller diameter hoses there is a restrictor??? Otherwise this should have worked. I understand what I did must have bled off too much air hence the wastegate actuator sees less pressure. I then hooked it up as you said on page2 but I didnt use the restrictor from the first bit of hose (I dont know how you would get it out without cutting the hose, maybe you can push it out with a bit of wire?) Boost was a fair bit higher than normal. So now it is back to stock with the solenoid earthed to give the 7-8psi. Any thoughts/.. I don't really see how your method works now...where did you put the resrictor? In the hose to the turbo inlet? shouldnt that then make more boost than the setup that I had...

In reference to your part 2. Are you sure this is the right picture for when you remove the solenoid from the system. I thought this might be the right way to do it. But I think I was getting a lot higher boost than before...

I have a spare rexy turbo at home. COuld I modify the actuator arm and mounting off that apparently they are about 8psi. 8psi + solenoid would be about 10psi. Though I dont know if I wanted to wreck the rexy turbo for the actuator...

Hi, Anyone have one of these in good nick or where to get one. I'll pay about 20 -30. thanks

will it look almost the same without the rubber stuff underneath? thanks

Ronin - have you been on the track with it. i.e prolonged hits of high boost... Anywhere know where to source one of these little pri*ks. ive tried importers/wreckers..

I've got a R33 just looking for a touch more boost without having a boost controller. I've heard though at the track 10-11psi might still cause the turbine wheel to come off I guess when I go to the track just put the old actuator back on.../ ANYone know where to get one for about 20-30 bucks. Called around this arvo to wreckers and turbo places. Quite hard

thanks guys. I have some dye at home in a spray can, but I didnt think that would work on the plastic..ie.e it wouldnt sink in. I thought you really needed something special. Thanks for the feedback. I might have to go to supercheap and see if I can find the prouct

I have read some posts from sydney kid and others. If I run this actautor should I swap it over on track days to the RB25 item .i.e is it not safe to run the 10 -11psi fr prolonged periods on stock turbo? So the Rb25 turbo item must be weaker than the RB20...

is this a direct bolt on? I read someone else had to bend the rod... thanks

I know this has been done before. But do these bolt on, no modifications required? SO the 2 turbos between these 2 points were the same length? Pretty cool. WIll the stock turbo and cooler be ok with the 10psi? I will disconnect solenoid so I dont get 12 psi.

hi mate. Do those decks have RCA outs? thanks

anyone painted this part themselves to make it look stock and newish>?

Ok. Does anyone know a good one in Sydney or tell me if they have done it themselves. The control panel on the drivers side with the power window etc has the top layer peeling off. ANyone know a good product to use or a retrimmer and possible cost? Many Thanks PS its a 4 door so these parts are slightly different - i.e. couldnt just get anotherO

Ok. Does anyone know a good one in Sydney or tell me if they have done it themselves. The control panel on the drivers side with the power window etc has the top layer peeling off. ANyone know a good product to use or a retrimmer and possible cost? Many Thanks PS its a 4 door so these parts are slightly different - i.e. couldnt just get another

thanks leech. Answered all my questions

Just wondering can you get to the filler hole from under the car - or do you need to take the gear kbob and trim out there and fill it round there. Who do most people do it? thanks Also how many litres does it take. 4L or less?

I had a read but I really only want to do a quick installl. I'll think about it as it sounds pretty good. the local pneumatics shop didnt have a relief valve that would operate that low and they wanted 166 for it

Do you need the hand controller. Or can you just get the boost controller buy itself. ? I was going to get a simploe relief valve and check valve to bring on boost faster but started reading this. Seems a little harder though thanks

cool - the norgren ones are plastic bodied though right? What type did you get? I just want a relief valve at this stage to bring the boost on a bit quicker..

anyone know?

Has anyone had any problems with the Norgren valves/regs. I was reading somewhere that they are mostly plastic inside and one melted under the bonnet of a toyota. I also heard the relief valve opens at different psi depending on what gear- eg. 7psi in 1st then 9psi in 2nd etc.. Anybody found this or is it bs? I guess in the R33 it should be mounted near airbox so shouldn't get too hot., But then I guess it also depends on the temp of the air passing through the valve. thanks

I find in my car (R33) with full 3 inch turbo back exhaust I get the full 7psi of boost at about 2900rpm in 1st and 2nd...and by just over 2000rpm in 4th or 5th gear. I was hoping to just fit the Norgren pressure relief valve with check valve to get increased response. Would you get full 7psi by 2500rpm in 1st or 2nd with the Norgren anti creep setup? The setup is seen in autospeed. Is there a decent gain at part to half throttle etc? Thanks

Hey R33vit. You say you make full boost by 2600-2700 rpm. What gear is that in - is that in 4th. I find in my car with full 3 inch turbo back exhaust I get full 7psi of boost at about 2900rpm in 1st and 2nd...and by just over 2000rpm in 4th or 5th gear. I was hoping to just fit the Norgren relief valve with check valve to get increased response. Would you get full 7psi by 2500rpm in 1st or 2nd with the Norgren anti creep setup? Is there a decent gain at part to half throttle etc? Maybe I'll start a new thread... Thanks