benl1981

would accept 9000 but not much lower. Interested in selling soon otherwise will stock it up and sell the turbo, powerfc etc separately. would rather somebody get the benefit from it as is though!! Its a good package

$9,300. Ad is now on Car Sales. Will be available for inspection weekend of 20th August. Been working interstate so those that have contacted me have been unable to view. Please let me know if interested.

9500 going on carsales shortly. Great car with heaps of performance that looks stock. Rare 4 door manual.

Forgot to mention the car has just had 2 brand new Khumo Ecsta KU31 tyres fitted and the 2 rears (Khumo SPT also) are only about a year old.

Nissan R33 Gtst Skyline 4 door Sedan Transmission: Manual Year: 1993 Km: 173000km Rego: till 29/3/12 Location: Sydney - Northern Beaches Servicing: Every 4000km with Fully Synthetic oils Modfications: Power FC + Hand controller GCG High Flow Turbo (Steel Exhaust Wheel) Z32 AFM S15 450cc Injectors New Ignition Coils Tomei High Flow Fuel Pump High Flow Catco Cat 3" Dump to Cat 3.5" Kakimoto Cat Back Front Mount Intercooler Manual under bonnet adjustable Boost controller KYB Shock absorbers all round. Replaced around 3 years ago. Poly Castor Rod bushes Replaced numerous power steering and fuel hoses Tuned by MRC Dyno at Castle Hill on 17psi producing 247rwkw on a safe tune Condition: Mechanically excellent condition Engine does not use any oil between changes or blow smoke Body in good condition, no dings. Some paint chips etc on front bar etc. Interior is in good condition Excellent value and performance for the money, sad to sell Will Post more Pics Later. Looking for $9,800

Nissan R33 Gtst Skyline 4 door Sedan Transmission: Manual Year: 1993 Km: 171000km Rego: till 29/3/12 Location: Sydney - Northern Beaches Servicing: Every 4000km with Fully Synthetic oils Modfications: Power FC + Hand controller GCG High Flow Turbo Z32 AFM S15 450cc Injectors New Ignition Coils Tomei High Flow Fuel Pump High Flow Catco Cat 3" Dump to Cat 3.5" Kakimoto Cat Back Front Mount Intercooler Manual under bonnet adjustable Boost controller KYB Shock absorbers all round. Replaced around 3 years ago. Poly Castor Rod bushes Replaced numerous power steering and fuel hoses Tuned by MRC Dyno at Castle Hill on 17psi producing 247rwkw on a safe tune Condition: Mechanically excellent condition Engine does not use any oil between changes or blow smoke Body in good condition, no dings. Some paint chips etc on front bar etc. Interior is in good condition Will Post more Pics Later. Looking for $10,500.

Old thread.. So same applies with the R33? The S15 mechanical centre can be swapped in easily enough? Would this be a reasonable upgrade to allow some limited drifting. The current VLSD seems to single spin all the time I called a diff shop today re. other options: They told me I needed to source a plate type mechanical cenre for my diff so they could put in a Nismo centre. They said my model or some of the nissan's came standard with the plate type mechnical. I take it the helical centre of the S15 is not a plate type LSD.. so I'm not sure what they are talking about. I assume that since the VLSD can not be pulled apart they need a housing to place the nismo centre?? Any ideas? Might be worth trying the S15 centre first with the R33 gear sets and see how that feels. I'm thinking this may be better than shimming of the R33 vlsd.

I take it the helical diff in the R34GTT manual is an improvement over the R33 gtst viscous LSD. Were these in all the manual R34gtt's or only after a certain year model? Has anyone had problems with these/comments? Does it prevent the inner wheel spinning that occurs with tired VLSDs?

Timing Belt - Nissan original about $80 Probabaly should get the idler and tensioner bearings. A place in Sydney had them for about $90 for the 2. Some argue you should do the water pump also when you do timing belt since it's a 30min job then..which if it leaks in the next year or 2 they have to take the timing belt off etc and redo a lot of the work. If getting a mechanic to do it you may want to pay the extra ~$200. Wheel nut - should only be about $5 Castor rod bushes - you can get the Poly ones that won't ever leak/crack. Nissan originals I think are about $130 each. The stock ones are silicon filled i think so they give yo a bit smoother ride Brake pads - Depends what quality you want. $50 aftermarket items should be ok if not racing it too much. Shocks - If not wanting bilstein or real sports ones. KYB will be good and about $140 each (x 4) Bump stop kits are about $35 for 2. KYB do these. Tie rods - Not sure but should be able to get aftermarket.. Most parts aftermaket are good. Get the genuine belt though. And the bearings NGK or whatever they are will be the genuine..but from a bearing shop. Should be better sourcing yourself. You could get a quote from the mechanic and see what they will charge..some have good connections. Just verify that all the items he suggested are in fact required. Most are fairly common though.

Hi there. Just wondering if the R33 gtst boot struts are the same as the 2 door. They're pretty short little struts.. Does anyone know where to get these at a reasonable price new (besides Nissan). Or good 2nd hand ones. Cheers

Just for info I have had the diamec SB1692 in my R33 for 5 years. It started to loose charge so I took out the black plastic covers at the top (2) and there are 6 small plugs that you can pry out with small screwdriver. Where some goggles in case it spits acid at you (not likely but good to be careful). I added a small amount of INOX battery conditioner to each cell (about 10ml) and some tap water (probably another 20ml). I then put it on charge overnight (best to leave the plugs out whilst charging), place a rag underneath it and do this in a VENTED area. Check charge on battery (should be around 12.5v and install in vehicle. Its now back better than ever. Real test will be after a week without driving it to see if it still has charge. Battery world were surprised it even worked when it was the wrong style of battery for cranking. However smaller SLAs similar to this are used in all the battery boosters!

I had a similar issue ~ 18psi (250rwkw mark) and the new coil packs resolved the problem. Running 18psi initially was ok on the original coil packs, replaced spark plugs, tried the silicone coating which helped slightly but the misfire came back. Ended up buying the yellow jackets and the problem has gone. When I get new spark plugs I'll buy the ones gapped at 1.1mm (against 0.8mm) now and see if the spark still holds. Last post in here covered it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gc...20&start=20

They're cheap performance for the price.. A few things to rembember, with these cars getting older. You may need to replace a few hoses, such as fuel (in the boot around the fuel pump and in engine bay - get a good mechanic to do it if unsure) and power steering hose. Cheap fixes..Power steering hoses go hard and start leaking. Can buy all this from Enzed. Get the proper EFI rates hoses for fuel The engines and manual trans are strong, but if in doubt get a comp test on motor The standard turbo units are pretty reliable but could give out with higher boost - cheap fix is a 2nd hand one (about $250) or high flow - about $1500.

Definately stick to the R34 GTT cooler. It will be more than sufficient for your application

R34 cooler will be fine for what you want. If sticking to the stock turbo and running around 10psi it is all you need..Response will be better and easy fitment

I think you might have 2 seperate issues there 1. The engine flashing light means you may need to take out 1 or 2 degrees of timing in the high load cells above 6000rpm to solve that one. I.e. engine knock as mentioned 2. The hesitation may be your coil packs. My coil packs were fine for a while after the tune but i tended to start getting a hesitation or miss around 5000rpm. I tried other Rb25 coil packs I had and coated them in silicone etc. Changed spark plugs. In the end I got some "yellow jackets" new coil packs and straight away it fixed it. They were about $380 off a guy on the forums..When you start running high boost it becomes important to have decent coil packs. At 12psi the old coils would probably still be ok. You could try gapping down your plugs from 0.8mm - if that works then you might be best off investing in the coil packs.

the metal piece you insert (the mod that's been referenced) is not really visible at all. Do that, it will look more stock than the silicone and cheaper. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...2A#entry3594870 Similar power to you and with good/new 225 tyres holds traction pretty well. I have noticed now that the grip isn't quite as good (tyres are now about 10k kms old, 12 mths old). Will spin up the top of first and in 2nd if road isn't flat. With fresh tyres it would hold. Be careful with the power. I have stock suspension and brakes.

The R32 10psi actuator will be fine. I've got the R33 gcg with R32 actuator running about 18psi with a simple boost controller (ball and spring), tapers back to 16psi in last 1000rpm I think...electronic boost controller could maintain the 18psi to redline but I'm not worried. What they do as an option on the turbos is bore our the wastegate opening and add a larger "flap" to improve boost control. Should be fine with or without though I would think.

VG30 are hard to come by and they will be laggier due to the op6 larger housing (common to R34gtt and z32 3.0T VG30DET 300zx's).. $150 is a fair bit if you only need the housing (for an R33 turbo - for a vg30 you'll be lucky to get one for that price due to demand). Can you find a blown one for cheaper? Shouldnt be more than about $50 if the bearings are shot. VG30 will make more power but you will lose response (probably about 300rpm, although it doesn't sound like much it will feel a bit more doughy, a really good tune may help this a bit). For 250rwkw and under R33 housing. For the extra 20rwkw go the R34 housing. As turbo dave aid if you get the larger housing machined out to suit the exhaust wheel you have may solve your compressor surge issue. Depends how much mucking around your willing to do and what sort of responsibility is the company taking on e.g. how much are they going to charge to swap wheels, machine out housing, balance etc?

Probably a mismatach of wheel sizes (Comp/exhaust wheel) - i.e. too small exhaust wheel and/ore too large compressor wheel. Changing one of these should work to reduce the surge. Though it's likely you/they will need to provide a new housing. Probably the easiest fix would be to put in a smaller compressor wheel, however this would mean you need a new housing as the one you have would be machined out too much. Otherwise you get a bigger exhaust wheel (more lag though) that would mean they machine out more of your housing. Sounds like they haven't done one before, so as paul said if you pay extra money you would want something in writing that they will rectify it for free. And each time you pull it on and off (or pay a workshop) is an inconvenience to you.

haha - the yellowjackets work well. Had a misfire on my R33 and tried another set of stanard coil packs and silicon coated all of them with no success. Yellowjackets fixed the problem

Cant see pics but for the power steering hoses you can get standard hose from Pirtek. All that will be stiff and probably leaking on yours. 1 is the smaller hose and the other is larger diameter that feeds the pump.. This is near the power steer reservoir. There is also a small bit of it down near the rack that can leak. The fuel hose is EFI, HP hose. Dont get the cheap stuff - Gates is about $20/m.. 8mm I think it is. You will need about 1m to do the one to the fuel filter and one from the filter out. There is also some near the fuel rail you will need. Maybe 2 metres all up Radiator hoses: http://mackayrubber.com.au/ or you can get gates one. 1 for the top and one for the bottom.. Cheers

Get it checked but you may be able to replace just the voltage regulator part of the alternator if thats the problem. Usually cheaper than getting a "recod" alternator which is Usually just new brushes and spray paint..

skyline1999 If there was no play in the bearings and they spun ok with no real noise or notchiness then they should be fine. A lot of mechanics and other cars recommend those bearings be replaced at 200k kms interval. At 100k I did the tensioner and idler since I got them at a good price. The water pump seemed fine, no play, no weeps from the weep hole so I took the risk. 170k km no issue but it isn't a bad idea to do it all at the same time.

Does the R33 GTR BOV have this Bleed hole. If it doesnt I might replace with one of those, so I get the response plus the BOV functioning properly if this is indeed an issue.