MearCat

I would also recommend VDO. If you're not after a fancy dial face and only after functionality, VDO is the way to go. Autospeed did a review and found that the VDO boost gauge was good (Avg error of 2.5%). To quote Autospeed : "Indeed, VDO offer good value for money while perhaps lacking the frills and panache of some. Accuracy is up there, and thanks to the German company establishing a manufacturing facility here in Australia, warranty isn't a problem. VDO gauges are available from most outlets and the range of hardware is extensive." Funnily enough, there is one for sale on Ebay right now :Ebay VDO Gauge Why spend $240 on an Apexi gauge when a $80 VDO gauge will do the same without having to worry about the accuracy/reliablity of something like Speco. I'm like having Functional stuff in my car, not into bling so I bought a VDO.

Wouldn't it be easier to maybe redrill a few holes in the bracket that mounts onto the head so it pulls the pipe away from the fan blades instead of having to trim them?

How can we find out what the rrp on each item is?

Any pics of the mags yet?

Still have a fair few left ...

Item:KNS Instruments digital panel meter with backlight Location:Perth Item Condition:2nd hand but as new Reason for Selling:Now using different display Price and Payment Conditions:$50 + p&h (~$6) Extra Info:This display can be used in many types of electronics circuits and is capable of displaying temperatures, pressure etc with configurable annuciators. This display was used as part of my temperature display in the old R33. Display alone was $105 new when ordered from the USA. It also has a backlight so it's easily viewed at night. See pic below, my tech write up , manufacturers website for more details. Contact Details:PM me for any more details about the LCD Panel or my temperature display project

I wasn't referring to the white "3 way fitting" in Picture 3, I was talking about the Brownish T-piece in Picture 2. That T-piece does not come with the package. Is this piece already on the car? I don't get my R33 for another month yet so I can't just go and check my car.

Wink - Is the T-piece that you've used (in Picture 2) the same as what's available in any pet/fish supply store?

Brilliant - exactly what I needed! Thanks Wink. If you were to install a boost gauge as well, would I tap the hose into the same point in Picture 3?

I've done a heap of searches on the forum and can't find anyone who has posted any pics or tutorial on how to install a Greddy Profec (B Spec II) boost controller in an R33. The electrical wiring is easy (wire it straight to the cig lghter power) but I need to know (WITH PICS) eacty which hoses to tap into, what stock hoses to block off etc etc Also Do the r33 run a single or dual port actuator?

I heard somewhere that the round lights for trailers fit the SII bumpers. You might want to check that out but don't take it as gospel...

It's interesting to note that a car that puts out that amount of hp uses a single K&N (type of) filter (see engine bay pic on Page 1 of the thread). They must flow alright.

I have seen 17x8's on most 33's in this thread have offsets of 32-36. If a set of 17x8's with an offset of say +45 are fitted to an R33, they would sit further into the guard, right?

Sorry - I glanced at the vacuum hose attached to the top of the BOV and though for a second it was a recirc hose.

I am curious to find out what psi does the stock start to leak and whether anyone has figured out how much it leaks as more boost is applied...

Ah that's the next question I was going to ask - how loud is it. It looks like it's a half recirc BOV anyway which if I WAS to have a BOV I would get one of those. However, if the stock BOV doesn't leak at 12psi, I will sell this one and stay with the stock one. Is the stock BOV okay at 12psi?

My car is still in Japan and will be shipped over next month but I want know what tye/brand of BOV this is on the car. Can anyone help?

I initially had a requirement of under 50,000km so when I managed to get this I was extremely pleased, especially when it's a grade 4.5 To nelleh and everyone else - Good luck in your searching. You WILL find exactly what you want if you're prepared to wait.

It's been a while since anyone posted on this thread, but I thought I'd let you guys know that I've just picked up a car at yesterdays auction... 1996 GTS-t Series 2, 2Dr Manual, grade 4.5... with 20,960 kms. Not one blemish on the entire body (not one single mark shown on the auction sheet), Grade B interior, Aftermarket exhaust, clutch, adjustable suspension. Should have it on the road for just over $22K So to those people who said that you cant get a car with low kms, this is proof that you can... if you are patient. This car took 5 weeks to find which was actually quicker than I expected.

Tap water doing damage to your FMIC??? Gee - I'd better stop washing my car with the hose then hey... What damage do you honestly expect tap water to do to the outside of the intercooler - except maybe leave tiny traces of minerals on the core? Do you have acid in your tap water? Aluminium does not oxidise as quickly as it's metalurgical reactivity properties would suggest.

If you're not running a PFC, the consult interface with whatever shareware (or Datascan) whether it be NewKleers or a DIY, it a great cheap tool.

Over the years, I've heard people say that you should never fill up your engine with oil so that the oil level goes ABOVE the FULL mark on the oil dipstick. Is this cr@p? Or is there any truth to it? If it's true, why should you keep the level at FULL and not above?

Simple question(s) : What is the exact size of the R33 Series II bumper opening. I want to fit an 600x300 front mount intercooler (Hybrid) and want to know whether the CORE of the intercooler (not the end tanks) takes up the whole opening and where it sits in relation to the opening. Any front on pics of installations would help a lot. MearCat

I found this http://www.providecars.com/new_html/j_market.html#1, but I'm not sure how relevant this would be to poplar cars like Skylines though.

If the kms are wound back say a small amount, there's probably no way to tell, but if they've been wound back a lot, it's of course easier. I've been told it's quite easy to tell based on the condition of the interior. Even if they have been wound back 10,000km, it's not that much anyway. I was talking to a guy a few weeks ago that has been importing cars for about 6 years now (and imported over 250 cars), he was saying that things like the handbrake boot on average will start to split a little at around xx,xxxkm, the steering wheel will start to show wear at xx,xxxkm, series I R33 seat bolster shows wear at xx,xxxkm, series II R33's seats wear at around 15,000km less than series I, etc etc and continued on - to give about 6 or 7 examples of how you can tell whether the km's are roughly genuine or not. As he said, "We can tell you whether we believe that the km's are genuine, but can never be 100% certain" As long as when I import a car, I find that the conditon of the car matches the kms, I'll be happy.