MearCat

The maroon mini you guys are thinking belongs to Con Torrisi. He's had it for a few years now. Check out http://www.twincamturbo.com/ With slicks he ran a 12.74 1/4 mile... 10.1secs my a$$

Email sent...

Is the boost gauge a vacuum/boost or just boost, what meaurement (psi or KPa) and what max boost readin gon the gauge (15, 20, 30 psi)

I have an Autowatch 160RLi alarm in my car and recently got the main alarm module replaced but I only had one of the two remotes coded when I was at the shop. Can anyone tell me whether/how I can code/set the second remote by myself, coz it's too much of a hassle atm to drive back to the shop to get it coded.

illusiVe - I've already posted a link to this site in this thread http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html Go and read it and learn all about scavenging As for my muffler, I have a universal, large bodied, mild steel, 2.5" straight through muffler. Cost me $110 fitted and have proved (on the dyno) that it produces the same amount of power as my old TRUST muffler.

What's the 2nd flange for on the manifold? Of course the top one is for the turbo but what's the one at the bottom right for?

philta - who are getting to do your compliance? How much is it now that the RAWS regulations are in place?

It's at this point when I admit I'm slightly wrong about something. The other day, a rather knowledgable friend of mine remided me about fluid dynamics and how they relate to exhaust flows. I have incorrectly been talking about our NA's requiring a smaller exhaust diameter to retain some backpressure when I should have been saying that the smaller diameter is required to retain the scavenging effects from the engine. I've looked around for a write up of sorts and read this : http://www.miata.net/garage/KnowYourCar/S4_Back.html To quote a bit of it "So instead of going for the widest pipe possible we should be looking for the combination of the narrowest pipe that produces the least backpressure possible" I still maintain that if you want to retain a reasonable abount of throttle response and drivability and if you're not going for outright top end power, a 2.5" exhaust is the biggest you want to go.

You can express whatever opinions you want on this forums, but just because we say something that's against your own opinion, there's no point in spitting the dummy and running to mama. Oh and yes - I think your car should only be white, with a GTR body kit and 18" chrome mags. Nothing else I tell you, NOTHING! So if your car is something apart from this, I reckon you get you little butt into gear and change it! :bahaha:

What size exhaust did you have before/after? Dyno's don't tell anything about the drivability or throttle response of a car either. The dyno will only tell you the torque & power at a certain rpm/speed.

Wrong. NA's require a certain amount of backpressure to get throttle response in the lower rev range. (Of course, turbos are a completely different story)

I finally installed mine just above my left knee and can see it perfectly through the steering wheel day and night. As JimX said, I can flip it up to mostly hide it and also needed some stronger 3M mounting tape to keep it stuck there. The tape that came with the unit lasted all of 2 days before it started falling off. Because my SAFC is the black model not blue/silver, it blends it a lot better and not as visible too. If anyone is curious, the little gauge sitting in the ash tray area (bottom left of pic) is a custom made multiple temperature gauge. Plans for it are available for anyone who wants them.

Have a look at the thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66789 to see where some have installed their SAFC's. You may get some ideas there

Excelllent idea JimX. I reckon that's about as stealthy as you can get without making custom brackets/mounts for it.

Is it just me, or are none of these thumbnails or attached pics appearing on this page?

For those of us with an SAFC, we know they're not exactly subtle when placed on top of the dash for maximum viewing pleasure. I'd like to get an idea of where you guys/gals are mounting your SAFC in the cabin. On/in the ashtray, in the spare DIN under the radio, under the steering wheel near your knees - the stealthier the better. Please post your (reasonable sized) pics.

Sorry Yotis - no way I'm going that low.

Nengun Prices : SAFC $456 EBC $448 I think these are subject to customs duty/tax if caught. In that case, I'll drop both my items to $380 ea

Both are the latest Spec II models, not Spec/Series I (as shown in the pics) I and I'm sure many others would love to know where you can get these cheaper (and new) for around $420/$430

Both items in excellent condition (No scratches), installed and used briefly before removing. Both includes all original wiring and all manuals. Pics are attached. Apexi SAFC II - SOLD Greddy Profec B (purchased for $700) - SOLD Both are the latest Spec II models. For descriptions on both items, how they work, how good they are etc etc, just do a search in the forums... Email or PM me

Does the SAFC need be tuned for hot and cold weather, or can they be tuned in any weather and then the Std ECU deals with the changes in temperature?

For tuning potential is there from the SAFC II vs the Gen 1 SAFC? Both have the blue screen but the SAFC II has the single dial on the RHS and Gen 1 SAFC has the four arrow buttons. Does the Gen I do the same job as the II or is the II just look nicer and dosen't do much more? I am looking for approx 260-270 rwhp in an R33 with 3" exhaust, FMIC, dump pipe, hi flow cat.

GZ - where did you get an extra o-ring from?

Dude - the ad was April last year. They've long been sold!

I have extractors & 2.5" exhaust on mine. I have a mild steel 2.5" muffler in the stock muffler position. with a 4" stainless tip and looks pretty good without having a huge cannon muffler sticking out the back. As for the muffler - all I can say is that go for the physically biggest muffler you can get as long as it is a straight through design with no baffles. I used to have a TRUST muffler before the it started to rust on the inside and then went to a smallish aussie made one (with baffles) - this was too small and loud and also lost some upper rev power. Then went to a larger aussie made one (universal 2.5" - straight through) and it's quiet again and has the same pull all the way through the rev range like the TRUST one. As for power output, a dyno run with old & new muffler shows there's bugger all difference between the TRUST and new aussie muffler. So after tried and tested options, I say go locally made stuff as it is just as good a jap.