MearCat

Mmm - I'll email some Ebay recipients of his intercooler and get their responses. Will get back to this thread in a day or so when I get some feedback on build quailty, power gains etc etc

And you're probably right too. Check out the reference pics on both auctions: D2Power : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting Flyn/Hybrid : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

So you're reckoning that Hybrid, ICG and probably these D2Power coolers are the same?

The same guy is selling just the intercooler without plumbing for $370. Given the low price I'm dubious on whether you'd get a decent quality intercooler. I was curious emailed him and you can get the plumbing only for $600 + p&h as well. ModYourCar.com (located here in Perth) has a 600x300x76 cooler on special until end of June for the awsome price of $419 (was $550) and you can get the plumbing plus clamps/joiners custom done for about $450 (but in mild steel not ally like D2Power). Similar total price but personally I'd rather have the piece of mine of getting something local rather than from Hong Kong. My mate has just had a ModYourCar.com cooler fitted to his TT Soarer and reckons it's great! Robo - You said your cooler is exactly the same. Did you actually get it from this guy (D2Power)?

mexr, I do have an NA R33 and have just had the muffler replaced last week with a universal 2.5" one and it's too loud - resonates through the cabin really badly at 3000rpm which is driving me nuts :bonk: . I'll be getting a resonator put in this Saturday. But the reason I'm asking about the Genie system is when I upgrade to a GTS-t I want to know whether that system will be too loud in a turbo. I can't see why there would be too much of a difference in noise whether it's a NA or turbo with the same system. But I don't want loud!!

I want to know if anyone has had a exhaust system fitted with a 3" catback sytsem with a Stainless Genie cannon style muffler - from any exhaust place in Perth. How loud is it? I'd want to get an ehaust that's realtively quiet (read : far below the decibel noise limit) but still flows well. Please don't start going on about how I should go jap ehausts etc because I'm on limited budget and Quickfit Morley have quoted ~$500 for the above system (mild steel pipe and stainless muffler) which is a good price but want to know whether it's loud or not. Their work is good - I've had exhaust work done there to several cars, including my NA R33, and am happy with the quality. MearCat

$250 later and I have a new master cylinder installed. The shudder in the clutch that developed in the last week or so is gone and some gear changes seem a bit smoother. I'm one happy chappy

$250 later and I have a new master cylinder installed. The shudder in teh clutch that developed in teh last week or so is gone and some gear changes seem a bit smoother. I'm one happy chappy

In the last few weeks I have started to notice that my clutch will shudder a little when taking off in lower revs. Before anyone says "Yeah they all do that", this is a STOCK clutch, not aftermarket. A few months ago, I've noticed the clutch master cylinder is dripping (veeeery slowly) fluid onto the clutch pedal in the footwell. Are they related? Am I looking at needing a new clutch or something? I do NOT want to get an aftermarket clutch and am looking for the cheapest way out of this as I'll be selling it in about 10,000-15,000kms and upgrading to a turbo R33. btw, I am in Perth. MearCat

CMS Drifter, Really sorry to hear about the car mate. It was always one of the best R33's in Bunnas when I was there ... besides mine Good luck in your battle with those a**holes. Obviously don't give a damn about actually looking after the cars and expect a fence to do all the work. MearCat

Not raelly an R32 thing. I have an R33 and it's only done 61,000km too

Funnily enough - I found that exact problem today as well. I have clutch fluid dripping down onto the clutch pedal and the floor. It's not leaking very fast but I had to top up the fluid today - I caught it when it was about 2mm from the bottom of the fluid reservoir. 46n2 - is the fluid leaking inside the car like mine?

1996 Lancer Coupe with the usual breathing & bodykit mods. Spent too much on it. Got much better value for money & style from the Skyline

Of course it's Pounds of Torque! I'm not that daft. But how does it relate to Nm? ie - what is the conversion factor between Lb torque and Newton-Meters.

On the torque prinout from the dyno, how does "Lb" relate to Nm?

Mmm - I somehow doubt it's foot-pounds. The readout of 640Lb on the printout does not = a ball-tearing 867Nm. A figure or around 250+Nm is more realistic for my car.

Steve - On the torque prinout, how does "Lb" relate to Nm? :confused:

Turn into Radium St (in Welshpool) off Welshpool road and it's about 200-300m from that corner on the right. There's a set of units - go around the back left area (Unit 9 I think it is).

How do we know who will run in what order? I can only be there until about 12:00-12:30pm. Would love to stay the whole day but has a work Xmas function on at 1pm (free piss so I'm going )

I've had some thoughts on thermal switches an their location in the radiator. All the info I've ever seen with installation of thermal switches for aftermarket/auxillary fans as well as stock installations have had the temp sensor for the switch in the top tank of the radiator (or in the thermostat housing). It seems to me that the only time you want the fan running is when the radiator can't do it's job unassisted - and that is when the *bottom* tank will start heating up not the top. Do you get a faster reaction to a change in temp in the head with putting the sensor in the top tank? Why have the sensor in the top tank vs the bottom? MearCat

Does anyone know whether anyone makes oversized throttle bodies for NA R33's? In my old Lancer I had a great improvement just by replacing the throttle body with another one that was bored out and larger butterfly installed. I'd like to do the same for the Skyline. You can also get them for R31's (http://www.commsport.com.au/category47_1.htm) which have the engine at VL Commies, but can't seem to find anything for R32 onwards.

Greg, Cripes - I'd love post a pic but I don't have a digital camera. I'll Explain it differently : Air enters the scoop just above the radiator and flows into the top half of the filter box, passes through the filter into the bottom of the box, then runs off to the throttle body. A cold air feed pipe normally runs from the bumper area directly into the filter box, but with the above setup the pipe it's a lot harder to get a large sized cold air pipe to feed the top half of the filter box. So I just went for a pod and a pipe that feeds the pod. Does that explain it better?

I was annoyed at the fact that it's very hard to run a cold air pipe from lower bumper to the filter box - coz as you all should know, the air flow through the filter goes DOWN. Instead, I got a K&N pod and made a FULLY SEALED (screws) and INSULATED heat shield from aluminium sheet and ran a 3" PVC pipe up onto the pod. Runs fantastic on the higway.

Sorry to hear the troubles mate. I've been lucky enough to avoid any roos on the drive back home to Albany occasionally but have seen the damage those buggers ONE can do but three? Ouch. I agree w/ IMACUL8 - bellsing in diguise - time to get those little imperfections fixed.

Gee - I think a lot of you guys are either getting the wrong end of the stick or I"m getting the vey good end. My insurance for my NA is ~$900/yr through RAC (WA), I'm 27 and includes a $2500 stereo and mags. I was 25 when I got it, so can't say what happens to the cost when you hit that age mark. -MearCat