6InlineTT

No its a spool billet n1 copy I suppose u would call it. There is about 5 other posts earlier where i said "n1 pump with billet gears". Effectively as strong as any other billet set.

Yeah there is a thread on rb26 building on skylife that talks about it. I'm not sure why I shouldnt use my new N1 pump, being that ita not the standard sintered metal gears, its aftermarket billet 4340 gears by spool imports. TWO-06L ran 11300rpm on stock n1 gears and ran low 9s. Oll be lucky to push 8000rpm+ on a street motor with stock clearances. Ill be fine.

I think firstly I will have my block inspected before I go buying a whole rb26, absolute worse case I need a new crank and a line bore/machining. If it needs a line bore or too much stuffing around I'll go get a stock 26 and bolt my gear on.

There is nothing fun about tractors. I don't mind some lag. Not 2540s lag though, gah. The GTSSs I had previously would have been perfect on e85 with 330-340awkw

It's n1 with aftermarket billet gears. Flows plenty for my application and strong enough for a stock rpm street motor. My reasoning is that N1 GTRs in LeMans ran 24hour races on stock n1 pumps. I have bigger issues

Crank was grup screwed. Not sure about block though. I used compressed air and c.o cleaner, they weren't blocked at all

My understanding is N1 pump flows slightly more than factory Nissan. Also, only revving to 8300rpm with 1.5thou clearance on rods and mains which is by no means large. I've had it put forward that the oil filter relocation/cooler kit was installes incprrectly, so lines crossed and trying to push past the one way valve. Some gets through but not enough. Also, I'd say the pressure sender would read full pressure but the mains and crank would be getting SFA oil flow. The last owner rwcieved the car back after work that required messing around in the oil filter block area. It had spun bearings when he got it back, i rebuilt it (like i have done plenty of times with other motors) very clean, oil galleries blown out and all clear. I just hooked the oil lines up the way they came off. I'm not sure of the correct orientation but id say I have a very likely cause here. F######

Z32 afms sold!

If it was me, Id be tuning it, then adding water meth for safety. Too many xr6turbos with bent rods from the res running out of fluid.

Any recommendations on how much spool rods and cp pistons go for second hand?

Gtr700 had 580awkw on stock motor before they went wild with it. Only blew it up by accidentally downshifting and overevving. I have a billet n1 pump gear set so I'm sure I can make it work

I like how you said "my first engine"

Yeah well it's probably an hours extra work for bearings. Can't hurt. Probably cheaper than a full strip down on my block. I'll make a few calls and see what costs will be. The new crank alone is $800+ I saw a long block go for $1000 this week on sau. Seems like good value to me

Newcastle. If you think it would be fine then I'll just do the oil pump and drop it in. I guess I'm just scared of the (probably overstated) rb26 oiling issues. I guess there are plenty of stock rb26s without baffles, billet pumps, head drains and restrictors getting around, I have all that and an oil cooler and look where I am.

I've rebuilt it once, it was last done by a performance shop. Lasted a few weeks and died.

Ahh okay, perhaps I find a stock long block. And swap my billet pump out. Would YOU go to the trouble of fresh bearings, fitting my oil restrictor and a decent headgasket? Or just run with it and stay under 380? After thinking about stroking and the costs I'm a little turned off by the idea.

A bloke with a 4L falcon non intercooled turbo setup used a multimeter to measure charge air temp. Before And after WMI there was around a 70deg Farenhiet difference. It was actually better results than the intercooler he trailed.

Well I already have the forged rotating assy in the car. Not that it's needed at my power level, I bought the car with spun bearings, got crank straightened, checked clearances 1.5thou, crank runout. Plastiguage etc. no dice. I think I'll remove the motor, have a shop look over it and stay 2.6, maybe pick up some 2530s (the 2540s do nothing until 5500rpm.) Did you suggest buying a secondhand short block when you said building a 2.6 is pointless?? I appreciate the feedback. Thank you

Hi guys and girls, After assembling my rb26 for the 2nd time now after bearing woes...she's gone again. Lasted maybe 20hours of run time. Mains are gone. I'd say it needs a line bore, and the crank is already 30' under so I'd need a new one. My thoughts are this- have the block reconditioned, line bore, new crank and any machining necessary. Or do I go n1 block and new crank? N1 block is the best part of $3000 and would require a bore to 86.5mm to suit my forged pistons. Cost effectiveness? Do I just buy a 2.8stroker and sell my existing forged rotating assy or have my block machined and stay 2.6 Has anybody made this decision and could perhaps steer me in the right direction. I'd like to go 2.8 but it seems reasonably pricey, but if it's going to cost me an arm and a leg for machining the stock block+ new crank I'll go 2.8. How much did machining cost you? What did u do? What would you consider next time? Mods, rb26- billet n1 pump - baffles - head drain, restrictor - trust oil cooler. -forged 2.6 -264 hks cams and hks2540 lag king turbos.

New brake pads, $10900 make an offer.

Rb26cams, $75 Rb26 pistons &rods $200

Have a set. One is slightly (still usable) buckled quoted $125 to straighten. With unreg tyres $375

R33 GTR gearbox $850 58,000km All GTR CV shafts $200

For Sale, 2 x z32 AFMs $170 each done 1000km then went to Haltech Map sensor. 2x rb26 AFms $100 each r33 GTR wheels, one damaged $350 quoted $125 to fix. 3 inch exhaust r33/r34 $225 r33 gtr passenger side front quarter $175 r33 GTR series 3 cluster with 58,000km $250 Located Newcastle 0432906186

$11750!!!