666DAN

Do as Mafia suggested, the stock gtst tune on the ECU will suit high-comp fairly well, it's a conservative tune for 9:1 engine so run great on the 10:1 An RB20 turbo will spool too quickly on this setup, my car was making a stock RB25 turbo reach 7psi at 1800 rpm, which was borderline too early.

may be OK by then...If I see ya, I see ya

Damn only just saw this, I think I'm over the limit on JD

Yeah it was a horror in the wet, dodgy 205's were too skinny for it. The GT-t seems to behave much better, the extra power straightens the rear out more, makes it a pleasure to drive when breaking traction

I can believe it, the only ever prang I had was in my N/A R34...it was strangely more uncontrollably tail-happy than the turbo one.

It's not too big a job, I managed to swap turbo's on my 34 in a few hours. If you're putting a new one on, remember to get a nice new gasket.

Glad to see you guys are alright, but that's really bad luck. My GF has driven my car once, was under strict instructions to back off at any sign of tail-end twitching...which happens dead on 4000rpm in all gears in damp conditions, she reacted *fairly* well. It's not a good idea to let someone who is unfamiliar with a RWD turbo car jump straight in (I had no choice due to alcamahol) Hope everything turns out well.

Sizzler? Way too expensive for rat-poison...the Morrison offer much more in the way of good food for the money. I'd even rate Hungry Jacks over sizzler...hmmm bulk burgers *drool* a couple of Xenocal and they won't even dent your wasteline

*tumble weed*

There are two skylines always parked at a house near the corner on Parkland Drive in B'plains...anyone here?

No it's the one on the centre of the firewall, not the one on the drivers side that sends a signal to the gauges. Funny looking flat black thing on the brass bracket. I've known a few to have the hose on the under-side break/come off, it wouldn't throw up the check engine light with a PFC but will make your car run like a load of bollocks.

I'll give you all the damn finger!!!! (hopes squizz doesn't edit the wording!!) ROFL

How is your boost sensor on the firewall? If it's playing up it will scale the timing incorrectly under load.

This the guy? http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/in...p?showuser=2685 He's asking about a stereo install in an R33, he's in QLD

White R34 on the gateway today, stock as a rock, but great choice for the girl driving it.

maybe depending on revs?

Great result, considering it's *only* a boosted N/A

Definately a conversion, the manual surround is a different colour to the rest of the facia

I dabble as well, here's a good shot from NZ and more of a 'stylised' photo manipulation.

I always fancied an M3 but speaking to many owners of them, they have all said that anything pre 2006 has been fragile and in there opinion the engine overstressed. They quite often mentioned the words broken, break, weak and expensive..basically has put me right off. Apparently my R34 is faster than one anyway and cost me a fraction of the price.

Hey this wasn't a bayside blue one by any chance? I was looking at buying it for $17K last year, had been in storage for a couple of years while ownership was being disputed in court over the wreckers yard contents. Had also replaced the passenger side door with a power-pole The guy ended up selling it on to a private buyer

Get onto perfectrun they do splitfire packs for very good prices, normally around $550 delivered. Another problem with the auto's is the shift solenoids in the gearbox, these can start to breakdown...not as common as bloody coilpacks though! Also not very obvious until you find the car locking in 3rd gear a lot, until one day it never comes out!

Didn't you feel them shrivel just from posting this thread? OMG it's called a majesty FFS!!!!

I'm still leaning toward the 350Z myself, but it'll come down to $$$ in the end I think. I want to get the TT sorted pretty much straight away, with a new house and a wedding in the wind....testicles don't grow on trees LOL

Yep you have the classic 'S' in the power curve at the top end, the load scale on the R34's drops timing by around 10 degrees as you go over a critical airflow point ~12psi on a stock GTT will see this happen. Funnily enough you have got almost the same power my car had with exactly the same problem As Adam said, try dropping the boost a tad on the dyno, you should see a nice curve form when you get the boost right. The only way to go from here is to get an aftermarket computer so you can eliminate the factory retard at higher boost, on a positive note it stops you trying to squeeze too much out of the stock turbo