666DAN

As above, save me from myself and my dodgy tendancies, don't let me use jubilee clips to mount my fuel pump!!!

On the GTT the pressure valve sits in the hose between the pump and the hose that clips to the inside of the lid. The GTT has this dodgy looking purple plastic one.

It's electronic, as are the oil temp and voltage gauge next to it.

it's about 80mm in length different at the rear, the sedan is slightly longer.

Still no good Pete? That's pretty annoying...I've got my thinking cap on trying to figure what's going down. It's crazy considering we've got similar setups but your car doesn't seem to like boost, whereas my car never twitched when the boost went above 1 Bar (pre-ROM)???? You'll have to let me get my hands on the car sometime, we'll spend an arvo gunning around your neighbourhood

Zero, looking at the bonnet it's the throttle that looks like it has a big cylinder/motor coming out of the side...there is a cut-out in the engine cover to accomodate it.

The new 911 turbo does 0-100 in 3.9...so the system can't be all that bad

As Hootchy said, they have to be removed when complied...so yeah I'll stick to my previous comment of lazy compliance companies that don't do their job and replace them...I know for a fact my current R34 was complied to the letter, my last one was questionable.

You can use the N/A ones, there is no difference between them. It's not overlly hard to replace them in an R34 as long as you're comfotable with removing some minor parts that sit over the recess where they sit.

TCS & Slip light normally means there is a problem with the plug that attaches to the secondary throttle butterfly under the bonnet, unplug it and plug it back on see if the lights go back to normal. Run a diagnostic check to see what error code comes up

my previous R34 was classed as a 4 seater...only 4 seat belts, my current R34 has 5 seatbelts and classed as a 5 seater, depends who does the compliance and if they bother to put a sash belt in.

Hmm not sure who to buy through, do a search in the traders section see if anyone has them for a good price...you should be able to track some down for under $700 delivered And are you sure you're getting 100C that sounds awful hot....

Sorry, by lose a cylinder I mean it becomes dead due to no spark...no real damage, but trying to drive on less than 6 cylinders isn't really advisable, you have a bad power ditributon on the crank, not to mention the cylinder bore being constantly washed free of oil by the unburnt fuel. And it sounds and drives like crap.

Yeah the last car had R33 packs just sitting there...the bit that holds onto the spark plug seemed sufficient to stop them migrating around my engine bay I'd advise getting some splitfires though, do it properly, not dodge-spec like my last car hahaha

Could be the coil packs in the first stages of death! First you get the odd miss at idle, then you get the check engine light, then you lose cylinders as it progressively gets worse.

I actually put in some series II R33 packs and sorted the car out last time, but they don't fit properly as the bolt holes are not in line with the R34 head...still with them floating there it ran fine

Yes the R34 coil packs are complete bollocks, my last R34 had them die, first it was a miss at idle, then the light coming on, then I started losing cylinders and sounding like a WRX. They must have had an extremely bad run with the manufacture of certain lots. They CANNOT be repaired with any of the methods stated on the forums, once they die they die, it's heat related so the car can run fine basically until the engine is up to temp and heat-soaks them. My current R34 is just starting to miss at idle, so I'm going to get some splitfires ASAP before I get the headache of dead cylinders that crop up at the worst of times.

Satnav = bollocks and won't work, but maybe possible to convert to a nice TV dealeo...

Trying not to be a pain...but 97 coil packs have the mounting holes in different places to R34 ones (98-2000) they work perfectly fine, but are not physically able to bolt to the head. Didn't cause a problem in my last R34 though, the packs seem to be built better than the later ones.

Are the injectors high-flowed? They're the same colour as stock R34 injectors which indicates they're 386cc not 440cc

Worth the money and sound great!!!

Yeah Sam could be able to pull that off with that budget, good to see he hasn't been traumatised tuning R34's after sorting my car out when he was up here...nah it wasn't that bad just had a few issues with the CAS

Offers welcome

The N/A model doesn't have the evil HICAS, I find it makes my car a bit tail happy with it now I don't think you'll be upset by putting a turbo on, I found it to be a huge learning experience with the R34's but well worth it. I still miss my old car, the insurance company did offer it back to me, but once it's been stolen and buggered it's never the same.

My car lasted a good 50-60,000kms...and from rumours I've heard it's still going good (it was shonkily bought at auction resprayed and sold off as a GTT to some poor bastard) Maybe just go for the bigger turbo setup, you can pick some decent manifolds and chinese turbos up from Otomoto, which seem to be fairly good, they just don't use BB cores...but with the high comp lag won't be an issue.