666DAN

False advertising! goddamit!

I'm pretty sure most workshops..even those unfamiliar with it would be able to tune...it really is that easy it's embarassing

They did make it, but unfortunately it uses the RB25DE as it would have eaten into GTR territory. Conversion to turbo wouldn't be too hard...and well worth it!

Well the reason I said that was because when I was looking at doing it the engine package was $6-$7K...they're a lot more reasonable now..but it's still going to be at elast $2K to put it in. The best option is to make an RB30DET out of your N/A engine

Lets hand out burning pyres and flush him out.....(crazy mob ranting)

Get another one, a rebuild may not be worth it...send a PM to Driver..he has an R34 Neo 6 for sale. Also PM me with a list of bits on your one that are OK

He's got to go and pick the thing up first...in his eyes the money is probably more attractive than the pump. COD gets expensive when it comes back after not being picked up.

I don't think bobjane will fix your mate..he's too far gone But they may help with the thread, if not just get a couple of new studs.

Make sure you also get the ignition and injection harness...ideally the boost sensor and harness too.

Yep I think it's well and truely goooooooone I'm running the GReddy boost sensor at the moment, it seems to have helped a fair bit with things.

yeah he is...actually ecl

what a load of 8u115hi7z0r...good ol Gatesy

Yes it will plug straight in, the only thing that may need connecting is the wire that controls the signal for the boost solenoid. But if you're going to use EBC don't worry about it.

Try ECL, think he has them

Italian EAT OFF!!!

GTTR34, have you got a pic that you can post? I just want to see how good they look in a 34 before I do it. thanks.

I do not!!! And anyway my plates fit fine on the back of my car

Averaging 40,000 a year so far

Yeah I hate when that happens, why do you think I put the turbo on my one. At least it doesn't sound as gay as KITT or chuck the hissy fits

When you get a quote post it up here, this is like the 'Price is right'...higher....lower!

picsorban on the wheels, you've talked them up a fair bit...they better look good

It is possible, I've found ANY malfunction with the sensor will result in excessive timing being pulled. I'm suprised the SAFCII doesn't cause the same thing, as a few other products on the market that are wired into the factory knock sensor cause it to go into fault. A good example is the GReddy Knock Sensor adapter...on most cars it reduces the knock signal...on my R34 it retards the timing badly.

Hmmm i'm taking a guess at $5K

Could be a few things, the engine check light comes on in the R34s for more reasons over previous models. If you're mechanically minded, get yourself one of these, they can help no end with diagnosis of problems plus it's got lots of great features! http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.htm If you've got an R34 tiptronic, the shift solenoids can let go at a very short lifespan..may be this. More than likely you've got an ignition problem, when the coils play up it will labour the engine and make "deep" noises.

OK some more pictures, probably helps if you stare at the engine bay to get a feel for where they are. The first one is the oil feed, to see where this is you'll need a torch to scope around under the intake manifold. This one is looking down to where the AFM hose connects to the turbo, where the engine mount sits. The oil return was passed through the engine mount, to the turbo. The return end goes to a 90 degree tap that goes through into the sump. In this picture you can see the braided oil feed hose, that goes around the back of the engine to the other side as shown in the first picture. The water return goes to a 90 degree tap that goes into the block. The feed comes from the heater hose near the fire wall. Hope you can make some sense of these pictures Dan