666DAN

Lol forget my rant it's back to front....the n/a has a seperate TCM so you need to disable all of the wires on the GTt ECU that are also trying to control the gearbox. It would be getting mixed messages. A manual Gtt ECU should do the trick...and let the auto work on it's own

Basically the N/A ECU also houses the transmission computer (that's why the transmission works) The Turbo ECU doesn't contain the transmission computer, so the transmission shits itself and goes into limp mode (2nd gear) If the guys are awesome they can piggy back the turbo ECU in parallel with the N/A ECU and it'll work just fine. Basically have two ECU's but cut the wires that drive the injectors and ignition packs coming from from the N/A ECU plug. This allows both ECU's to see all of the correct signals, but allows the turbo ECU to do the work controlling the engine, and the N/A ECU left controlling the gearbox. Realistically there are only the key wires that need to stay connected to the N/A ECU.....Pins # 4,5 20, 24, 25, 29, 31-41, 44-46, 48, 54, 55, 58, 60, 67, 70, 72, 79, 80, 113, 115, 120-122 Maybe a couple more, but that should be it

Have a tea towel on hand or similar to rest over the gear area. It allows you to remove the setup straight backwards without touching the sides, then rest the unit carefully while you remove plugs/leads from the A/C and stuff. As mentioned the plastic either side of the unit will scratch it you look at it sideways.

Saw Willo on the gateway today

This wheel has not been washed to date

Vulcanized rubber is one of the most chemical resistant materials out there. Not much can phase it due to the excesive crosslinking. Why tyres are a bitch to recycle :-)

LEDs ahoy, still have lots in storage

You just need to give the tyres a good clean, applying some of that plastic primer doesn't hurt either. Scrubbing the tyres will wear it off though, so touchups are required if you're a bit curb happy haha

yeah comes in can form also

Wow just noticed I joined up here 9 years ago, time flies!

PAS74....I see you!

LOL made a massive effort to avoid traction reduction haha, will grab a pic. The stuff has been on a while and the tyres still look new. Even dust doesn't love them anymore.

OK, after many dissapointing ventures into spray can "gloss" laquers for minor body repairs, I though I'd try the 3M Clear laquer, very impressed with it once you giveit a healthy polish. But then I started pondering it's use on my tyres....wowee....permanent new tyre shine with minminal dirt pickup and easy to clean (no polishing required....Vote #1 3M clear laquer!!!!

SIQ33 on the gateway today getting trapped behind chumps that don't downshift when going uphill.

Yeah that one is fairly cheap, not sure of what brand it is, as long as it works OK. The GReddy one looks a fair bit different. A boost controller is always nice to have.

With that setup I'd suggest getting a a boost sensor for it as well. You don't have to get the GReddy one, as long as the one you get has a 0-5v output and covers the amount of boost you want to run. Most people also wire this sensor into the E-manage TPS spot as well, gives you better tuning options than using the traditional "boost input" alone....tuning against TP is fairly pointless you get better results tuning against AFM and Boost pressure outputs.

Wouldn't it be cheaper/less hassle to just get a DET block in that case?

Wow haven't been there in a while, definately ended with me being violently ill though...won a load of cash on the pokies there and spent it all on that stupidly strong beer they stock...haven't been able to drink wheat beer since

R34 GTt S1 - 3 x T4neo + 3 x T3neo R34 GTt S2 - 6 x T4neo R34 GTR - 6 x T4neo R34 25GT - 6 x T4neo

Would be good to see what the 25DE is actually equipped with as well

Search "R34 diagnostic paperclip" should bring up a thread with the instruction on how to pull the error codes.

Search "R34 diagnostic paperclip" should bring up a thread with the instruction on how to pull the error codes.

Shagged alternator