666DAN

OK this is still highly dependant on the DIY-ness of the kit. As it currently is, it's not do-able as the supplied PCB's for the LEDs were too fragile. A good day of driving managed to crack a rail supply power to the LEDs so not happy jan. I've just sent them the diagrams for the new boards to be remade (which are as tough as old boots) Still hoping for ~$300 a kit, closer to $500 if I supply the tail lights as well. Somewhere in the middle is if I do the install for you.

Yep just use pin 48, it's the 5 volt reference supply for all 3 sensors anyway.

The PAYING customer can do what he likes

OK here are some pictures, I apologise for the random angle they’re taken from (I don’t have a tripod) some are with my Pentax, the others with the phone. The phone produces the deeper red which is truer to the actual colour. Either way they look really good in person

Is VIC like QLD where the width and diamter are based on the largest factory option wheel offered on any model that was prodcued (ie based on the factory Skyline GTR wheels)

#2 you can ditch the pressure sensor full stop (it's just overboost protection) but you need to run a signal to trick the ECU, easiest way it to take the 5v TPS feed, run it through 4 diodes then into the pressure sensor signal wire. By doing this you drop about 2.4 volts accross the diodes (off the 5v signal) giving ~2.6v ie exactly what the ECU is looking for Based on that logic you could also wire this same 5volt output to pin 51 (~3.4v so use 2 diodes) & 53 (~4.7v so only use 1 diode) and it would ignore the TCS system (probably what the 'secret squirrel mod is)

Will get some tonight, only just bolted them in today haha

It's a 34 thing

Some progress-

3 pairs left

Oooh I may finally be able to put a solid dyno figure up, someone SA was selling my old car, hopefully they put it on the dyno??? I love how it lost 105,000kms off the speedo and doesn't have repaired, rear passenger side damage http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...le-t314425.html

Unfortunately not with the housing, unless I can start picking them up cheaply. Just waiting on some quotes for some laser cut mounts, but the DIY should be fairly stress free. Taking the lenses out just involves putting them in the oven at 80c and then popping them out quickly with a screwdriver.

They sit a lot better in the guards, about 0.5-1cm in from the top guard, they look mostly level with the side

Probably just a drop in bulb in there, I can now get some fairly good output T20's

I'll have a look, I tricked the signal on a car years ago using the 5v TPS feed and some diodes running into the sensor wire of the TCS. As far as it was concerned it could see the ~2.5v it need to not throw up an error signal.

It could be worse, you could have an established product that someone not only has copied (and I mean 100% visual clone) but passes them off as *your* kits (doing damage by offering a substandard and faulty product) and costs you so far $120K in lost earnings over the past 2 years....but hey that's my story It's times like this you need to adapt and roll with it. I do agree 1000% with Trent on this, it's all to do with market share and how it's divided, how often do we see this with Chinese turbos flooding the market. Garrett don't give a rats.

Anything is possible But no, the cost would balloon out if I start getting additions made to the current design. As it would require more template cutting and hand soldering by the manufacturer.

The ECU pin that controls the baffle switches it open in the mid 4000rpm region in the 25GT. In the GTt this is the very same ECU output that opens the boost control solenoid to go from low to high boost in the late 4000rpm region. Basically it should still operate much the same if the output is still connected......is there a setting in the PFC that controls this output? May be worth sticking a multimeter on the pin and seeing when it triggers +12v (or if it does with a PFC)

*shakes fist at Jenna* Don't you know I've got a massive presentation tomorrow Haha I'm procrastinating badly with these lights, put them back together to get the "parker" photo and braking photo. I'll most likely dim the lights down for the "parker" as it is brighter than the stock light and doesn't provide enough of a difference when braking. (just goes from too bright to stupid bright) But hey, that's what prototyping is all about! No doubt i'll have them finished and fitted by the weekend though

hahahaha you reminded me of the time a mate did that to a tailgating van.....BOFFFF instant zero visibility

Yeah the inner one isn't meant to actually be that bright as it isn't connected to the braking circuit, it will remain as a "parker" just I wired them both up on the braking side to test. Will try and do another pic soon, I've taken them apart again

OK prototyping is underway! I've had the bulbs a whole 5 minutes to test a few things (ignore it appearing off centre, the RED lenses aren't fixed in the housing

I've always loved the fact that tools for undoing tamper resistant screws are so readily available and cheap

That is pretty much true, a key cutting machine only copies and cuts at whole number depths between 0 & 9 a slightly worn key will still register closest to the nearest hole number ie the correct code, if it doesn't the key won't work full stop. They don't 'trace' around a key as most people think, there is a bit more to it.

Make a trip to the wreckers and find an N15 pulsar, exactly the same PCV/Grommet on them