666DAN

Shroud included or just the MFD unit on its own?

I wonder what the fuel cost of running that plane is for these offences?

On my old car, the e-manage was mounted to the left of the glove box, all that could be accessed there was the USB lead for programming, everything was invisible without pulling the glove box out. The loom ran down behind the stock ECU and was invisibly wired into a Field one-touch harness. You would have to be super-keen to figure that out as not being standard.

I call him "Gregory"

Pretty much right, because the torque I'm making at 220rwkw is definately beyond the capabilities of the stock R34 box if driven hard (I've learned when and when not to shift) and I know for a fact putting a shift kit in and getting sharper shifts would f**k it in weeks with my driving. Basically if you drive like a girl though, the box will last longer in the R34......question is are you a bitch?

Meaning the bands can't take 330rwkw with a shift kit fitted.....timing or not, it's the power that killed the box. With regards to Stan and abobob, bear in mind these are both R34 M-ATx boxes that this has happened to, not R32's or R33's

Then why do MV sell a complete upgrade kit for the R34 box and yet only rate that at 300rwkw? Because that's all the power even the kevlars can take with a hiding. Ask abobob how his box held up with an MV kit and 245rwkw. Then contact Satanic and ask him what happened to his flex plate while on the dyno tuning it, a quick squirt at 330rwkw and it let go.

Diagnostic

Yep best to run the diagnostic and see what it says....could be anything from a damaged sensor to coolant water shorting something out. Until it's rectified the light won't go. Saying that though, I do recall a something about the ECU needing to be reset after logging an overheat code, but yeah follow the thing below and it shows how to reset with a paper clip Diagnostic

Wouldn't be much good to him at 40,000 feet

No idea on cost/availability. They do pop up a bit in the for sale section though. If you're not overly phased about the TCS system working 100% right, you can take out the butterfly plate (2 screws holding it) and that does tend to fix things as the drive doesn't get caught on the inside of the plenum anymore. All your codes will appear normal, just if you do activate the TCS you get some loud popping out the exhaust due to the airflow not being cut off as before.

Well instead of supporting the rediculous change, maybe you should just not drink if planning on driving, son of rajab Cadbury

If you've got no ill effects it's most likely the TCS throttle motor, they can start to get a little sticky and play up, if it doesn't move the way it's supposed to on startup it registers as an error, with TCS and SLIP lights on.

Once again oblivious LOL....or being told to slow down by my wife??? Hey, if you want to be dropped to the bus stop, it's done *my* way

LOL and what's wrong with that, autos are tops I've got a super duper list of bits on my one, to be honest I reckon the price would be around $16K for a nice quick sale. It's still very tidy so have no doubt it'll go Bring on June!!!

It's pretty much plug 'n' play the plug that went to the original headlights plugs into the low voltage side of the ballast, so instead of triggering the tungsten bulb it just supplys the ballast. It was a quick swap when I last did one.

Have you checked the vacuum lines going to both the fuel pressure regulator, and the turbo pressure sensor mounted to the centre of the firewall are OK?

LOL I was probably lost in thought

OK confirmed today that the same unit fits the Sedan boot brake light

I've got 235/40's on all four wheels, mainly because of the rotation issue...they need rotating a bit I picked them up on ebay years ago including tyres for like $550....no one bid on them!!!

+1 for the GT2

lol I've only got 9 days to go to get to my goal....tearing through it at the moment but just can't keep this much boxing up, it's killing me (and so far destroyed a punch bag) hahaha Can't wait to back off to 3 nights a week Then again, even taking a day off midweek I'm starting to feel slack, funny how that happens.

Actually works out $31 delivered now as I can't sen them anything but registered. Yep looking into the other lights at the moment.

Jenna, do you want me to send you the light wavelength analysis we had done on the globes? I had to supply it for a similar "offence" in QLD as part of a defence. Basically the wavelengths emitted by our lights are 100% WHITE on average, and the same as natural daylight...BUT when next to an obviously yellow light it appears 'blue' as white LEDs are less yellow. So basically they don't emit blue light at all, but they are LESS yellow than a normal light. It's a massive difference when it comes down to the letter of the law. So much so that they actually fall within the allowable deviation of colour allowed on a standard bulb. The same thing can be said for putting a white LED next to a blue one, you'd never say the white LED was blue in comparison Always good to know the specifics A nice bit of info from QLD transport- "Blue" halogen bulbs are a recent innovation in vehicle lighting technology. They operate at higher temperatures and provide superior illumination to the conventional halogen bulb. Historically, the white light emitted from headlamps on motor vehicles has been generated from incandescent light sources and contains a predominance of red/yellow frequencies. This has become the accepted norm for white light. The new bulbs, which are actually "whiter" than the existing bulbs, contain less of the red/yellow frequencies and more of the blue end of the spectrum. The bulbs may be perceived as a very light blue. Motor vehicles have been required to comply with Australian Design Rules (ADR's) for lighting since October 1991. ADR 13 mandates the number and position of lamp assemblies, ADR 46 prescribes the photometric requirements of the lamp itself and ADR 51 is the standard for filament bulbs. ADR 51 accepts ECE regulation 37 as an alternative standard for filament bulbs and prescribes the dimensional and photometric requirements for filament bulbs (including headlamps). This ensures inter-changeability and correct functioning when installed in a complying lamp unit.