666DAN

Get splitfires, don't arse around...oh an perfectrun have always sent me items really quick I think a majority of people using the 'other' brands are finding they work perfectly fine as they're not using the internal transistor type coil packs that R34's use. With the R34 it's not worth cheaping out as who knows what quality of transistors and components have been used for the internal ignition system. Seeing that a few people have complained that the rubber boots start to melt and fuse to spark plugs, this alone would make me pick the splitfires. My splitfires have been going strong for 4+ years

My splitfies have been going strong for over 4 years now, haven't skipped a beat.

LOL they may not own up, I was close to leaving a note under their wiper about that

Blinkstar in the carpark at uni!

That's great Col, they do mention my theory of fitting "Pink lights" I get asked that a bit, same for the ultra violet. I stock both coloured parker lights, now I've got a link to send people to

Booo, no good Pete. I'm not sure how long I've got left either....apparently 7 years of owing an R34 and being "childish" is enough for the wife, I've been told I have to get a responsible looking German car next and stop pretending I'm still 21 Unfortunately for her, any German car with grunt is gonna put a dent in the funds

Kyle, yep I've got no idea about why your height adjust isn't moving much, on my car at 1.5m distance to a wall I get a full 75mm drop from the high to the low setting, so on the road you ca imagine this is a marked change in distance. Is the adjustment motor making a good bit of noise when it works, or does it sound like it may be sticking?

I didn't see it, too busy smashing into my Campos fryup last weekend Funny though as I do see you (Mark) driving near my place a fair bit, in the 'vale

It's doing my head in as well.....fix it for me at least?

I love it sick! The place is growing in terms of places to eat and night life, we've just had a great example of a Brisbane "winter", rave, rave, rave best place in Oz I do miss the quietness of the early 90's though, the traffic does shit me....but hey you can't get growth without people.

The really annoying thing is getting pulled over all the time, as once they're stolen the plates get flagged with the transport department. I get pulled over a bit for this, the first question is always "Is this your car"...my standard reply is "yes I know it's flagged"

Hey Stan, all is not lost if you can't get one. The ballast from a chinese kit is easy enough to wire in. Especially the slimline ones that are about the size of a credit card and will fit in the factory location.

I'd have to say I did live with the tacho on the +4500rpm side, I really didn't feel the car was performing until the second butterfly was open and you had that nice change in pitch of the engine I bounced hard of the redline pretty much all day in my 34. I know the auto could definately live with a higher-stall torque converter, the manual would be OK with some higher rpm launching.

Yeah, it's the taste that gives it away...I've seen a few people caught out by that one.

A diamond blade on the angle grinder and then silicone would work I've got an R32 reverse light here that's pretty much the same construction....I need a spare set to cut up to test You'd be surprised that panel doesn't use much power at all, it's under 3W from memory, but damn bright due to efficiancy. I replaced all of my interior lights with high-output SMD's....if you accidentally leave a light on; the car still starts the next day as next to no power has been sapped from the battery!!! I may look into the R33's if the housings are easier to pull open, then I can make up customs sized LED boards (like those pictured) I've got access to a couple of test R33's luckily.

All good, if you follow back you'll find a pipe that vents just behind the butterfly, perfectly normal for a bit of grime to build up there. As long as the intake side of the butterfly is clean and dry everything is as it should be

PM what you can live with+ LED trade

$100 for the front bar? Can pick up anytime. Feel free to swear at me or call me names via PM

Hmm I can't find the file, basically you run the normal ECU diagnostic (short the pins on the consult plug with a paperclip with the key turned to Acc, then stop shorting to enter diagnosis) then start the engine. Rev to 2000rpm and hold then count at least 5 flashes of the check engine light (rich/lean cycles) over 10 seconds.

Even with modifed R34's the GTt one flares if it's not got a good bit of heat in it, that's why I like summer...not so long to get things up to temp (but luck out with power dropping a bit) I recently changed my gearbox oil over to some Valvoline stuff that is designed for Commodore Taxi slush-boxes and gained some extra friction on changes. Good as gold again.

Not weaker, just makes it flare much easier. The 5spd in the GT is very similar to the RB20DET manual, the 5spd GTt box is much more awesome, moreso than the R33 GTSt box

Well everytime I'd see a big dip in economy (we're talking dropping down to about 280kms/50L) I'd run the R34 O2 sensor diagnostic and bingo always come up with a slow responding sensor. I've changed the sensor in my car 3 times in the past 4 years. It's a pretty good diagnostic function as the AFR is meant to cycle so many times in a 10 second space at a few thousand rpm.

Nah the light comes off in seconds, but the lens won't come off the housing, so you can only fit a normal T10 in there not a super awesome panel of LEDs like in the brake light.

Yeah this is what the inserts looked like, they're a SMD array, the camera isn't showing it (as it's too bright for it) but its like a load of perfect circles of light, looks really good....shame I can't crack the reverse lights open The boot light may be made like this though, with 20 SMD's.....even though the hi-flux type I just made and fitted is brighter than stock :S

Boo! the reverse lights (even though tabbed) seem to be a bitch to get appart. Bummer as the inserts look pretty cool when they're lit up.