666DAN

Yes, to do with the number of clutch packs on the forward gears from memory, the GTt has extra due to more torque.

I want boost and something cool, so that limited me to an SL600 or a 335Ci....the 335Ci wins for many reasons (PRICE, PRICE, PRICE....oh and Chiptorque)

Damn straight, once I'm done with being an intern it's BMW-ville for me Would still like the 35 though (just need to convince the wife that it's technically NOT a boy-racer car like the past few have been)

Yeah my 25GT was great when it was in N/A trim, I was impressed as it was an auto as well which you'd expect poor economy from. My best ever average was 9.1L/100km...9.3L/100km was normal. This was a 3 year old car with only an aftermarket exhaust. After the turbo went on and other stuff followed that number went out of the window though

Nah they're not thirsty at all, my R34 gets ~420km/50L at best with 75% highway driving, that's down to about 320km/50L for city. Mainly as I'm a lot heavier on the throttle being such an impatient driver. My R34 25GT used to get consistant >500km/50L though which I thought was great considering my GTi Corolla used to get ~550km/45L

Yeah best bet is to leave the red section in place and unclip the rear of it (heads up for all other people) not sure what they call that stuff.

Yep that's pretty much it Darrin, just split the feeds to the respective high beam and ballast.

Most likely not a Luxeon, trying to keep cost on the lower side. I'll be making up a mock sample to send to the manufacturer soon...this is when I'll make a decision on LED type. It will be just as functional, if not more so than stock. Basically whatever goes in there will follow the concept of the dash light I stock now, super bright LEDs run at 60% output. Like all semiconductors this will actually see closer to the stated max life.

I didn't realise how interesting this would all be, speaking to my supplier they can even totally reverse engineer a whole light for me and get the thing tooled and copied. I was tempted to get these made, but not sure how popular they are with the 35 GTR crowd http://gt-rr.com/gt-r/r35/nissan_japan/par...lights/pid/152#

I pwned a hare once, luckily it ducked and all I heard was "TONG!!!" as it hit some underbody metal

Some turd threw a bread roll at my car the other day, I just nipped down a side street and came back up the road behind him and his mates, they left him for dead when I flew up the road and stomped the brakes. I got out the car and gave him some abuse.

Green Dragon TT FTW

The e-manage killed Nates packs, the e-manage sends a constant voltage to the coil packs AND ignition pulses. So as the voltage drops between pulses (but not to zero as it should) the current starts to increase to maintain the wattage, this burns out the packs explosively. It's the same problem with RX-8's and S15's...or any internal transistor coil-pack really.

Yep that's why I still didn't trust the updates that were meant to elliminate the coil frying, for the sake of installing 6 zener diodes for <$3 it's definately good insurance.

Unfortunately you're tuner isn't as familiar with the R34 electrical system as me, I've owned R34's for over 7 years and know the electrical/ECU systems backwards. The CEL for error 21 is only triggered once the expected current drain isn't seen by the ECU, this can only occur when the firing transistor doesn't activate (as it's f**ked) leading to a dwell current that doesn't drop. A spark plug, fouled, missing, shorted etc etc can't replicate this event and will NEVER show the CEL Your tuner should have pulled the codes and seen it was a 'non-consecutive firing signal detected' he should also know that every R34 under the sun has this issue at some point. My advice is do both the plugs and the coils as you'll just save time and frustration of fitting new plugs, finding it starts playing up a week down the track. Then you have to order some coil packs and then put them in risking damage to nice delicate gaskets on the intake that have to keep coming on and off.

Plugs don't cause the check engine light to come on, he will have error 21 logged in the ECU, every R34 loses it's coil packs....it's an accepted fact, much like the sky is blue. Just trying to save him dicking around with plugs when we alll know it's the coils. I've run copper plugs under silly boost for 40,000kms and still never even got close to losing a cylinder like when a pack shits itself

Coil packs 100000000000000000% it's been covered a million zillion billion times, R34's specifically have shit coils that ALWAYS die. A quick diagnostic with a paperclip will show error 21 from the ECU Never replace with OEM coils as they will just shit themselves down the track. They can look shiny and new but the transistors inside suffer from wire seperation at engine temperature and gradually disable the coil pack even in fairly new cars (my last R34 did it when it was 3 years old....yes back in 2002) Buy some splitfires, do not pass go, do not collect $200 and forget about the issue ever again

Prices are - Bootlid brake light inserts - $25 Reverse LED insert (Red or White) - $30 each

Can do, I'm pretty sure you three guys have wiped out all the coming stock

OK here is a picture, red boxed bits are critical bits that you need to keep at least 5mm of dash plastics and padding so that when you fit there are no gaps or visible holes. Step by step trimming with a sharp blade will be all that's required at this stage. Take time and it will work out fine. Green boxes are where the triple gauges hook in place. At the front you completely remove all padding to expose the plastic section in the green box.

In the GTt it's held in by two screws at the front and two lugs at the back. I fitted some into my last R34, you need to do some accurate slicing with a craft blade and then peel the dash padding off. When you start to remove it you'll find the two holes for the screws to secure the front and the lug holes at the rear are also uncovered (same dash used in both cars) The other thing that needs to be done is to cut out a rectangular section of the freshly uncovered plastic, a steady hand and diamond blade on the angle grinder works just fine. When measuring up to cut the dash padding, keep mock fitting the gauge pod to get an idea of how much needs to be removed, basically you need about 5mm smaller than the size of the triple gauge housing, that's a good start.

Both types of engine have aspects that shit me, but I think a V8 turbo would be my choice something torquey to kick in before the boost through the top end This is why the Typoons are good cars, torquey large capacity 6 + turbo

Yeah Thursdays are a bitch, but I'd rather do the 3 long days than have to go down for 5 shorter days I'm loving the 2 mid week days off

willing to post the reverse lights COD?

Just use the loom from an EL falcon, wires up nice and easy....O2 sensors are cheaper for some unknown reason