666DAN

Ah I saw a green skyline, couldn't see the plates though

In regards to the variable intake, is it stilled hooked up and functioning? I imagine it would make a large difference with boost as well. Except IMHO you could get away with it being actuated and open fulltime by running constant 12v feed to the solenoid

In regards to that, if he didn't take it, cotact v8skylineman he was chasing one as well

Yey for the forum...imagine the trouble I had with this 7 years ago, I had one of 10 R34's in the country :S

Kinda right, it is triggered by the output from the ECU, it uses the same pin as the GTt which triggers the boost solenoid from low to hi boost. In the 25GT it controls the actuator for opening up the intake, but when it actuates it pulls air through that hose. If the hose is blocked it forms a vacuum sucking against nothing, so doesn't open up. That hose needs to go to atmospheric for the actuator to fully function. so you need two things -Signal from the ECU telling it to open (can wire 12v directly to it and it's open 24/7) -hose going to air intake, no obstruction so the valve can open, on a turbo car pick it up from the pressure side.

3 clips between the headlights, a screw each side hidden under the guard liner, another screw holding the bumper just under the headlight both sides and all of the ones holding the plastic cover underneath along the edge of the bar.

+1 Has someone recently fitted a pod filter to the car and just blocked the line that runs from the control solenoid on the butterfly valve? (actuator between the dual entry) This line must go to the intake as when it opens it needs flowing air, blocking it prevents the butterfly from opening up. Most people accidentally do that when they remove the air box, as that's where the line goes, they just plug it...big no-no and loses you massive amounts of power.

Any competent exhaust shop could cut the ~30cm or so from the existing exhaust and re-weld the flange so it all mates up. I had the reverse done when I turbo-charged my old R34, they welded on a 30cm extension so the flange butted up to an R33 dump-pipe which was too short.

Denis, you'll notice there is a little screw head that prevents the cover from turning, you can either slightly pry the lug that is hitting it and "jump" the screw (easiest way) or undo and remove it (think it's a torx type) The factory ones are 4500K but the thing is your not going to be able to match the bulb as it has aged, with age they colour changes from the orignal 4500K heading towards 3000K, so a new bulb will be way off. My factory ones turned fairly yellow quickly. The 6000K ones are probably as far as you'd want to go to retain a less-blue look. If you're keen I'm selling off my last sets of brand new D2R bulbs for $65 a pair delivered.

Running them out at $65 a pair express delivered only 2 sets left

The plugs are completely different between the two models, however if you wired up an R33 plug you should be able to run the engine off a series 2 R33 ECU, much of a muchness in how they run. Would be easier to just get the R34 ECU though.

Best thing I ever did was put the covers in my car, very happy with them

That's just not cricket

haha yeah I just mean come on boost earlier, some turbos get a good 1000rpm earlier boost than if they were on a 9:1 engine, nice You can run more than 7psi, just you may need to lose some timing in order to do it...and it may be one of those things were the gain of boost ends up not netting much extra in power. A turbo with a bigger rear housing will make more use of the extra gas flow and as a result you can run more boost as the heat is getting out of the combustion chambers quicker.

The biggest issue is if you use the stock ECU and a piggy-back, counter-tuning the stock timing is a little time consuming. If you keep the compression high, the best thing to do is get a larger than stock sized turbo if you want to run pressure over 9psi, flowing the exhaust gasses out as quick as possible is better to stave of detonation. I've seen T04E's on these engines spool like stock from the higher energy combustion that you get from high-comp. The fitment is pretty easy, can be done at home over a weekend with no real dramas.

Response should be nice with that turbo, like a stock GTt

I'd pick the R32, I had one for a month and didn't mind it one bit. They look better than the R33's as well. I agree they need an RB25,26,30 etc etc to get the most out them though.

Only 6000K D2R's left

In for 63088!

Custom Brakes & Automotive Ph 3848 7788 M 0432 358 208 2/12 Ellen St, Moorooka Give Neil Barker a call and ask if he still has a few of them out the back

They pop up on ebay a fair bit, and in the SAU for sale section.

You can fit the factory GTt triple gauges, you have to take some time to do it though as the top of the dash needs to be trimmed. I did it in my old 25GT and it looked factory. Basically you need to slice out the section of dash foam where the pod fits with a very sharp blade (after measuring and checking a thousand times) you should now be able to dummy fit the pod as it will lock in via some lugs at the back (the holes are obscured by dash foam) Depending on the depth of the gauges, you'll need to take an angle grinder with a diamond blade and cut a rectangle section of the dash plastic out underneath the pod so everything sits flush. If you get the time to look at a GTt you can see where this process is done in the factory.

A couple of options, you can try to sand the tips of the rectangle LEDs to get maixum diffusion of the light...it does help some. We're getting in some newly designed LEDs to trial soon for difficult dashes, like the Nissan ones that like to use tiny bulbs...and not enough of them, lucky we don't own N16 Pulsars a grand total of 2 x T5's for those, rediculous!!!

Haha yeah, but if you measure correctly it turns out just like factory (which is literally done the same way in a GTt)

In reality your best bet would be to fit the factory GT-t gauge cluster and put whatever aftermarket gauges in that you choose. It's a good location there.