666DAN

I fitted some Swoosh ones a couple of years back, they were great, I just felt 'gauged-out' with all of them in the middle though....at night it was like a commercial jet. I had AF ratio, Exhaust temp and a Boost gauge in there.

Yep happens to the N/A's as well, was my first encounter with the issue in my '99 model 25GT back in 2002

Custom Brakes & Automotive Ph 3848 7788 M 0432 358 208 2/12 Ellen St, Moorooka Give Neil Barker a call, he does specialised stuff.

I used Penzoil semi-synth in the 25GT, 10W-40 did just fine for 110,000Km I put on it

BuMp

With your 18's get something super light, heavy 18's can really drag on a GT-t so the 25GT is even more prone to this happening.

I got my one through National Windscreens, $320 fitted for the one with UV cut glass (slightly green) they're now made locally so pretty easy to get hold of.

Easy, walk into a post office and post it....or if it wasn't registered, chuck it into any manner of postbox 7 days a week.

Has anyone checked the 'Shift Control Unit' in the drivers side kick panel (small metal box closest to the door)? This is the thing that gets the messages from the TCM built into the ECU, then fires the shift signals to the solenoids, it may be a loose plug or worse case, buggered. If you can take it out, post it to me and I'll check it in my car if you like?

location?

Yeah about 7:30 so I was less than impressed...the thing that was more annoying was it waited until I was a good 15mins from home and doing 110kmh on the M1, I'd been driving it "sub 100" for weeks and had no dramas, so I thought it was good for a run to the coast. FAIL

Is it a GTt or 25GT? Have the solenoids been replaced with brand new items or tested ones? The reason I ask is the ones out of my old car that were dodgy always worked fine at room temp, tested fine etc etc, but when at operating temp they went open-circuit and threw the code. When the ENG A/T CONTROL fuses go, lots of funny things happen, nerver seen it throw a solenoid code, normally just makes the car stall and drive like shit.

The N/A type is pretty bare inside, nothing like the GTt ECU at all and from memory has ZERO expansion slots and resembles the R33 N/A board.

saw "CRACKER" 35 GTR give it a bootful down the GC today

May be a nice little surprise when they crack it open and see it's an R33 N/A type board

bump

I've seen a few Series 2 R34's with Garrett stamped on the housing, they had the same nylon compressor etc etc just a different housing

Check *both* of the engine A/T control fuses in the kick panel, funny things happen when one of these lets go...including low rpm stalling and stalling around corners. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a143611-

Didn't think you could use the Nistune on the N/A ECU...it's a pretty basic shitty thing with no upgrade ports on the board :S

Yeah just throw it in and give it a scrub. Just mask it up neatly when spraying so you only do the cover.

GT-A would be a good 100Kg lighter though, the one C-Red built was modified pretty heavily for an auto....ask them if they have had any dramas or not.

They sound like lawnmowers, enough said

Easy answer, no current standalone will work with the gearbox

Save yourself $15 It's here on SAU http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a143611-

My advice is not to use the standard ECU, it gets upset when it looks for the TCS/ABS controller, HICAS ECU, Boost sensor and a myriad of other minor ECU's scattered through the R34. A power FC or some other standalone would make it a lot easier to do as you won't have to trick as many inputs (as they don't use them) As for the main sensors on the engine they're plug 'n' play from one engine to the other so you won't have to touch the loom at all Oh and take the butterfly valve out of the TCS throttle....2 scews hold the brass disc, easy to remove.