666DAN

Not really anymore, but how much to do you want for it?

Also just found the 2" cast alloy adapter that lets is sit anywhere you put a silicone T-Piece, now included for free

Well you've just been punked, a lot of defects get issued based on ignorance and the hope you won't question it. In the older QLD modification guide it was actually under a specific heading relating to it. Contact QLD transport modification branch, get confirmation, contest the fine. QLD transport will tell you they are legal, must be secured properly, be of flame retarding materials, & non oiled, no mention of shielding at all and it would be your responsibility to find the relevant documentation to it being flame retarding (ie contact the manufacturer)

That only applies to oil-impregnated pod filters, such as K&N wet type.

Stock R34 ECU will cut when the boost sensor sees 4.7v which is between 13-14psi. I've seen low figures from cars with dodgy knock sensors, my ones failed at one point also. Have you checked the ECU for any error codes?

100% the O2 sensor is dead, my car is doing it right now as well and has happened a few times in the past. Change the sensor and everything runs like new again

I've been hearing good things with turbos on the VZ engine, apparently they're pretty good when the compression is dropped.

That's some good info, so basically it's now confirmed that the rear subframe including suspension of the 25GT's is the same as the R33 GTSt, the GTt is the same as the GTR. Nice work!

Power FC works just fine in the 25GT Auto, it's just the auto GTt it can't run. Most of the loom for the N/A will plug in just fine to the turbo engine 90% of the sensors are shared between them. The fact you're not running the factory GTt ECU is a big help as it's not going to have a fit that it can't see the TCS and other extras the turbo model has. You may need to swap the odd plug over as I think the AAC valves were slightly dfferent, but basically google the R34 workshop manual and compare the diagrams and connect all the plugs up.

Don't have the ECU from that R34 as well do you?

It's easy to confirm on the R34 ECU, take the lid of and check out the transistros to the left of the ECU plug (there are 2 of them heatsunk to the ECU body) they control the ignition. Rarely they do overheat and crack resulting in a lost cylinder. If it is that I can fix it up with a spare transistor I have here.

I tempted fate and regassed the Exa thinking it was "hopefully" just age causing it's low pressure, was nice and icey cold for a day then the compressor squeeled and dumped the whole contents of the A/C system on the road. Fluoro green oil everywhere.

Yep it's more like A....why would CES do something like that?

Nup on the CES dumps the sensors are located downwards, I know a few people using them I think Adam (abo bob) has the same dump. Tune is pretty conservative off-boost, on boost is static 12:1 AFR

+1 for Magnaflow, faultless product and full 12 month replacement warranty if something went wrong (unlikely to happen)

No current one is mounted in a ceramic coated CES split dump pipe, prior to that they were shitting themselves in the stock location

I can't, my fuel consumption falls through the floor, 3 weeks of driving like that will cost me the equivalent of a new sensor.

I find i'm replacing the O2 sensor on my car at least every 20,000kms....does anyone else seem to go through them that quickly? The AFRs aren't anything crazy currently (used to happen when stock as well) I get the same symptoms long before the check engine light ever comes on, stalling at lights, stalling if braking hard, erratic low idle that doesn't respond to AAC adjustment. Running the O2 sensor diagnostic to check the recommended "5 flashes @ 2000 rpm" and always get zero flashes, replacing the sensor and I usually get 7 - 10 flashes straight away and car runs like new again for another 20,000kms. Bloody things are starting to become a general service item for me.

Spotted a black R34 with carbon bonnet while on my daily trip to Algester PO, owner was in front of me in the que..didn't recognize them though.

OK a lot people asking about the parkers. They're now priced at $10.50 delivered for the multiangle type (pictured) no longer have the basic version.

I think ShanO just answered part of the question there. In the GTt the S15 is plug 'n' play the rear housing went in fine, and the splines match. So looks like the 25GT has the rear housing of the R33 and the splines as well.

also spotted HKS35....lots of S/C noise, but not lots of go

A single LED gives horrific results, they're even worse for lighting as they tend to have a more directional design than the rectangle LEDs and less output. I've even tried some newer cree diodes and can't get the coverage of this tri-led design. The main problem with the R34 dash is you're trying to illuminate a large dash with 4 small bulbs. The R33's have 5 large T10's to light the dash up so look much better. Even with the stock bulbs I can see light and dark patches in the R34 dash, it's just poorly designed. When you put a brighter bulb in it's more noticeable.

Blue means you have blue film behind the dials it's put in some of the dashes to reduce the amount of yellow light from the factory globes, if you look at the odometer you'll notice it's pure white (as there is no film over it) but the dials will be blueish, it's covered a fair few times in the LED sale thread, some cars have the film some don't, all R34's have it. All our globes are colour coded, white base, white bulb, blue base, blue bulb. This is a late model 180SX with it, note areas of pure white which are circled, this is the true colour of the globes showing through in areas without the blue plastic film This is what blue looks like installed, it really is very blue

Stick with the 25GT plenum, it's much better than the GTt one much better flow capabilities. If the tune has been done well it will adjust to suit the raise in boost accordingly. My car sits on 12:1 AFRs from 10 to 18 psi as it scales quite well. Have you still got access to the maps they used in your car? I wouldn't mind having a look at the adjustments they made with fuel and timing....I've still got the software here to open the maps up with. The gauges were Swoosh one, I was buying directly form the manufacturer and they were dirt cheap that way, they are on Ebay now and agian. I liked them as they're proper stepper motor setups with remote sensors. Just wires goingthrough the fire wall. The shifer I no longer have, it was a special Momo one that was a factory option, pretty rare. I'm looking at retrofitting the BMW auto shifter though, they look a lot better. Should just be a matter of drilling two holes to secure it in the factory location and trimming the shift actuator rod inside it. I've got a stainless steel start button to go where the cig lighter is, really should get around to doing that Put the EBC in the other compartment on the lower right, the AVCR fits there nicely and allows it to close and be 100% stealth