666DAN

Yeah he tried the same trick with me, hands like a limpit I tell ya!

Just Car = Win (generally with price and paying out my last car that was stolen) Their assessors = LOSE for all but accusing me of the theft (even when the car was recovered at the thiefs house) and for dragging out the payment for 3 months!!!!!!!! My advice anything dodgy they start doing, contact the head of AAMI, he sorted my problem out in seconds, his details are available from the insurance ombudsman in times of crisis

Well you've got to inform QLD transport of an odometer change anyway, so previous and current readings are detailed and the document can then be shown on sale so people aren't scared of extra Kms

Yeah there is a leak in the targa roof, I'm thinking of using silicone to permanently seal it. I'll never use it I'd say, too much messing around unlike a sunroof. Fixing the loom up today, then engine is actually pretty good, just the rocker covers seals need replacing and a minor clutch line leak.

Oil pressure switch is to let you know when your oil is low Behold, the fabled $100 (S)Exa, the missing cylinder is injector related, I can't hear a pulse and the loom seems shabby (loses another cylinder on moving) OK time for some TLC and boost!!!!

I'm working on one for the R34 using an E46 auto shifter...hopefully will be able to get my hands on a 35 to test as well

OK they've been breeding.... 7 x 6000K sets and 3 x 8000K sets

Nup my +1 is Ryan He loves teh CJ's, I'm assuming Jasons +1 is Bek though. my councillor is still hot

You want Red, but in my opinion of all the brake light LEDs I've tested, I'm yet to find a drop in solution that is brighter than the original bulb.....that's my I don't sell them. The only thing I have found that are any good are some 3W T20 indicator lamps that are actually bright in daylight and do the job.

Tell the guy to stick a fork in a toaster and see if it conducts It's all Inconel (nichrome) wire in them I'd say you've got poor contact that's all

Did they mean you will get greater resistance with Inconel seeing as it's very much like nichrome wire? Both will conduct, just steel should give literally 0 ohms...Inconel will give a value of sorts (depending on how far apart you measure depends on how high an ohms reading you get)

Maybe check the connector make sure it's plugged in properly under the seat

Leave it with me, I'll see what I can rustle up

LOL Max took the R34 templates from my seat skins a long while back, you lucky guys get to at least leave the fabric on and fit over it....way easier that way!!!

Yep my car was flagged as well from when it was stolen, they had my personalised plates and I was a "person of interest" I think it's been sorted out now. Saying that though it was 3 years after the car was stolen that I was first intercepted about it :S

We own a house - 3 bed, 2 bath, double garage in Calamvale....just the right size for 2 of us.

Yeah I don't think they should have bypassed the upper line there, I'm pretty sure on my car that runs to the AAC valve and controls cold-start, not sure on the R33, would need confirmation :S That bolt mod is also pretty dodgy :S

I smell mothballs and boiled lollies!

Yeah prices have gone up anywhere that's helf decent, we're on the boarder of Stretton and Calamvale it's getting exxy to buy here.

With the CC the best way to do it is to remove the facia part of it, pull the temp control knob off and undo the bolt, unclip the plastic facia. On a firm surface with light pressure, push the clear plastic LCD cover from behind, if you heat the plastic slightly with a hair dryer it will loosen the glue holding the screen making it very quick to do. Unclip the shroud behind the temp dial. Slice the tabs holding the red and blue temp indicator plastic, push them out. You'll now have just the facia making it a breeze to paint as it doesn't need any masking. When fitting again put some small dots of super glue on rim where the plastic LCD cover fits, that'll hold it back again, same for the temperature indicator plastics, put them in then blob hot melt glue over the tabs you cut, perfect!

So you're after 800's I think that's a fairly reasonable price then

The banjo lines are easy, all brake shops that make braided lines carry them. I actually had a 1/8 BPT to banjo made up for my car recently. Even the water lines were timmed factory hard lines with braided heater hose clamped over them, worked fine. The heater is constant flow in the R34's it's the vent that controls the level of airflowing through the heater, that's why with your A/C off (but still turned to 30 degrees) you can still feel hot air by your feet as the air mix vent is allowing air to go through the heater core ie it's a constant coolant flow setup. It's not like the old cars where a coolant valve opened. and then let if flow, it's always flowing regardless of A/C being on any temp or on/off Yep they can do either a T-block or you can get an oil filter sandwhich plate with oil pressure pickup which should be cheapish as well.

I always get me braided lines done at a brake shop...but if you're going for speedflow, nowhere is cheap :S

Can do mate, I'll PM dash pricing options as well

Pretty sure it's the R33 diff on the 25GT..the GTt ones doesn't mate up