666DAN

Porsche Carrera GT....V10 FTW!!!Would just need to do something with the rear spoiler :S Otherwise the 996/997 will do me just fine

may not look that great on an R34 though.......

I like threads like this, it backs my comments about a certain females RB25DE that's claims to make 130rwkw with next to no "actual" mods, here we have 0.5L more displacement and a GTR head with some real mods and power not much further than claimed elsewhere. Some more work and this engine will be sweet, good luck

Hey Kate! This guy is selling a manual GTt ECU, he's asking $50 too much for it, but I'm sure a beautiful young lady such as yourself could knock him down to something realistic, good luck! R34 ECU

Reminds me when I went to get a regass done years ago and to my suprise the car hadn't been "converted" for the new gas during compliance (dodgy) The guy basically told me "conversion" was a parts scam to get more money out of suckers....er customers as they may as well change the older system for newer parts while doing the job to get paid more. He changed over the gas fittings to reflect the new standard (pink and blue), filled it up with R134a and sent me on my way for $50. He said it was a load of lies about the compressors/condensers etc etc not coping, he was bloody right that cars A/C didn't skip a beat and was better than many a converted import I have been in....was icy during summer.

Actually in honour of the twisted young lad, here are some of his long lost "productions"

There is something very "omega2" about you Have a look how random his posts used to be, I miss the lad actually.

Any development on this??? What has been swapped/tested/eliminated?

It detects non-consecutive firing (no change in load on the 12v line that would normally coincide with the firing signal pulse) that's why it throws up the code. Trying to fit an alternate ignition system will also throw up the code and put you check engine light on permanently. Forget the igniter pack, just fit a set of Splitfires suited for the R34 and be happy in the knowledge you'll never suffer ignition issues ever again

Maybe so, but as Duncan said we agreed to the rules on registering, end of story......

Saying that though, some really well made plenums have popped up on ebay just recently, from Thailand *waits for flaming*....they're NEO specific with the correct AAC flange ~$875 delivered meant to be JUN copies. search "NISSAN SKYLINE GTT NEO RB25 R34 RB25DET INTAKE MANIFOLD"

Nit pick away Yes they weren't silicon diodes, they were the first thing on hand that I grabbed, I was actually going for a 1.2v drop then measure it and thought wtf...then looked at my diode choice

+1 50,000kms at 7psi+ didn't see any damage on my car

There is one on ebay at the moment....

You could get a Varietta (N/A convertable S15)...they're not cheap either

Good effort Sammy, good to see. And as for the comparing issue, you can only compare if you run both your cars on the same dyno at the same time, no point saying I got X @ so and so...it doesn't work like that I pulled 187kw on a dyno that I use a bit, went back a few months later and pulled 147kw with no change in performance (mainline had been out to service and settings had changed) after tuning the car was up to 188kw (40kw gain) and I know for a fact if I throw it on a Dyno Dynamics I'll be getting around 230kw+ Dynos are awesome tuning tools and aren't good for comparisons as none follow the same setup or standards

You can clamp the voltage on the boost sensor in the R34's using the e-manage, you can also wire some diodes in series with the signal wire and drop 0.3v off the signal per diode. I've got 2 on there and it's set the boost cut at about 17-18psi. The good thing about the sensor is it's purely there to detect overboost, it doesn't scale the maps so just reducing the voltage output works. I discovered this after making an awesome clamp circuit then testing the 2 diodes.....wish I'd done it in reverse :S

*Waits for this thread to be locked*

Maybe regulator was the wrong wording, yes it's a flow restrictor. Most people just bugger the thing off as it's got no place in a real car I was thinking in terms of it restricting fuel supply into the lines, the injectors not getting the pressure behind them as they're draining the post restrictor fuel off too quickly, as a result low line pressure is seeing duty cycle increase as it's having to be high to meet the challenge.

OK...well there is one in the R34, I had to call Nissan to check what it was and they said it was a primary fuel reg on the feed line (it's definately on the feed in my car) I even just checked the workshop manual, complete break down of the fuel pump side, shows the two halves of the pipe but doesn't show the reg thing in line....bloody Nissan left it out *shakes fist*

They should have retained the brass one for sure, the stock one is a plastic piece of crap Richard, my pump had a reg on it....purple plastic thing right up the top of the outgoing fuel line, I got a nice replacement one with the GTR pump.

2535 is a great all rounder if you've got access to one that's good condition and well priced, provide a good bit of power over stock without heading towards "dyno queen" territory Some say underpowered (dyno queens haha) but they are well built and definately have their place if you're after something to go on a well driven daily car and stil make you smile when you mash the accelerator. Having owned both the above mentioned turbos, the driveability of the 2535 felt light-years ahead of the highflow.

Did they leave the standard fuel reg on, pump side just under the inside of the fuel tank cap?

A fair few pop up on yahoo.jp

I'm more interested in the extent of the "unnecessary noise and smoke" what did you do, and for how long?