666DAN

For the N/A it's to do with the variable inlet, there is a butterfly valve that sits inside the plenum and opens up at around 4700rpm. Basically each lot of 3 cylinders is fed seperately under low to mid range, then for top end they open up. If you disable this butterfly the car has virtually no top-end. It's pretty interesting to see that just opening up the plenum has that effect. Something to note though, when I boosted my 25GT it was at the point the plenum opened up that there was some serious power, I didn't actually think of leaving it open full time til I didn't have the car anymore.

No 6000K sets left (can order though if you require them) 2 x 8000K sets left

LOL just saw that, you've gone backwards with mods

You're missing a wire dude, you haven't linked the ground on the Z32 side.

They have a lot of power locally, I bet they'd be hard pressed getting bank details if you work overseas with your wages paid into and off-shore account. They can't get HECS back if you work overseas, so I'm assuming getting bank details would be just as hard/impossible. They're not getting very far with Paul Hogan Anway all speculation for those dodgy people wanting R35's at a lower cost

So that must be a bit of a trap on R34 GTRs that can fall $1K either side of the LCT valuation, you're basically at the mercy of a guy with his clipboard and if he's had a barny with his wife that day

What happens if you buy an R35 GTR off your mate in Japan for $10,000 (he's a fantastic mate) You give his family a $70,000 "present" (as they're just so fantastic as well) the car only cost $10,000K on paper, so importing would be fairly cheap

I never had any issues with overheating, to be honest the only time I ever saw the needle move from its normal position was in 38 degree heat in stationary traffic on Smith St after sitting there for 30mins

I just think Matts frustration is stemming from the fact that the Power FC doesn't rescale the ignition map based on a knock sensor input. This has been known for years and years and is the biggest gripe people have with the PFC is that it doesn't respond to the knock signal like a factory ECU would....all it does is flash a pretty light at you and politely inform you the engine is pinging its nuts off. And I quote from one of the PFC forums "the power fc has no control or measures against knock" So the act of Cara replacing a knock sensor and then getting power back is perplexing at best. All I think is being said here is there must be some underlying issue that has not yet been found. Even bad fuel can have a really marked effect on a borderline tune. I've had a week of about -20rwkw after I filled up with something other than optimax/BP ultimate.

GTR pump and 480 injectors will do....550's don't cost that much more and have heaps of headroom

Is the bulb blown? Turn the car on, attempt a burn out, if it stops you the TCS is working, press the switch then try again. If you then succeed, the bulb is blown.

ahhhhh Killer Wasps!!!!!

The thing is though you are very aware of speed/correct lane/not killing anyone, as it's so routine your brain doesn't place it into long term memory, the fact you can't recall it is just that your brain has decided there was nothing memorable/special to keep.

Just put you own wires on and seal it with epoxy glue over the join, it'll never break

You should know this one Terry, it's drifitng into Alpha-like wave consciousness....I do it a lot, I call them mystery drives

Will this one do? ebay Item number: 310096063652

Mark @ Godzilla FTW

I've actually tested shielded vs unshieled, around the time I put the Z32 in my car. The difference was nothing of note. The funny thing was the rest of the loom in the car that is unshielded actually causes more background "bullshit" than anything. The other thing was going from standard coils to splitfires saw me having to use ferrites on the cable going to the ECU so the datalogger didn't cut-out. With the soldering I found some details. For splicing, soldering is the go In-line joints, if soldered it must be done so the solder doesn't wick too far down the joint (excessive heat and solder) and cause a stress point, twisted joint is a must. In-line joints, if terminals are used, they can be joined but must then be soldered or heatshrunk with glue impregnation so they can't come apart It's a matter of personal choice which way you go, but the last two are minimum requirements for auto

That's only true if you excessively heat the wire, good solder technique doesn't do that, you've fluxed, tinned and joined in under a second. 275 degrees for 1 second does not "work harden" copper. Excessive heat and excessive contact times does. I'm currently soldering IC components with copper wires around 1 micron that are highly vibration sensitive and can make a proper joint without raising the component above 70 degrees and have them perform with no dramas. That's 100% true with welding, but then again how many degrees are you using there and what sort of contact times??? Come off it, 0.01v exponential or not does not influence bugger-all on an airflow curve...you'd see more of a voltage fluctuation from the change in resistance of the copper wire with engine bay heat....its been hot this week and my car hasn't plunged into an irreversible voltage chasm.

If a 0.01v fluctuation is enough to throw a map out that is scaled accross 5.00v then it's a crap ECU or a shit tune...just think about the resolution of most maps and you'll agree your 0.01v comment is wrongtastic. I don't know what type of solder your using or if your techniquie is bad but solder doesn't contain *any* resin once it is heated and has flowed, the resin is purely there to melt and provide a flux for the solder to adhere to the wire...that's how it works. No amount of vibration will crack a decent soldered joint that has metallurgically bonded. Dry joints *will* crack, and that's the biggest cause of electrical malfunction (once again poor technique) Tin/lead is one of the most malleable compounds on the planet. A proper soldered connection should have sufficient heat, be fluxed properly and the end product should show complete adsorption of the solder to the surface, no grey or dull appearence, a nice shiny clean joint which will never crack. You have looked inside an ECU haven't you, they use copious amounts of solder on every joint and connection, no crimps to be seen. Crimps are only used as they can be quickly disconnected for replacing parts (ie the main ECU plug) or diagnosis...that's why they're used convenience, not because some old wives soldering failed. If anything I've only ever seen "that ellusive connection" with crimps poorly contacting, they're the ones where you shake a loom and things work on and off.

I didn't know 2-door Lancers were sports cars either! Wonders will never cease.

He could have been parked on his roof, running a brothel in his boot while dealing drugs. You hit him unfortunately, so it would be the right thing to fix his car up and not question it.

BUMP, a couple left

Manuals aren't that expensive...quick flight to QLD and you've got a car "manualised" form http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Na...05#entry4224805

Why would I take the piss? There's too much bullshit being told on SAU already- My advice, contact 4door_sleeper it worked first go with his car, maybe get the exact model of PFC he used. Craz0 had some luck, but the auto ECU wasn't getting the TPS signal, that would be a 5 second job to link on the PFC side though (if that was his drama, he had issues with the Wolf working also) My opinion is link the TPS and Tacho signal to be on the safe side, should just fire up and go. and read these- http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...oor_sleeper+pfc http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ma...oor_sleeper+pfc http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wo...mp;hl=Craz0+pfc