666DAN

A power FC can run in an R33 auto, there are a few forum mebers that have put it in, it's plug n play as the shift ECU just takes inputs from speed sensors and rpm and is pre-determined to shift.

You're right the shielding isn't that necessary, it’s only there to prevent induced voltages that could be picked up by the ECU and wrongly interpreted. The wiring is normally braided as well to counteract any induced voltages that do occur. I’ve never seen anything remotely big enough to give a false signal. You can’t beat soldering, crimps are extremely bad practice. The copper wire is more than malleable enough to cope with stress/heat, as is the solder.

Yep that's right, it's a piggy-back that ~2 places in the country can tune. Just get the ROM remapped, it's more than sufficient for any car and can handle the biggest of changes with simple retune ie, injectors, AFM, turbo swaps, fuel pumps etc et.....I'm on about 230rwkw and my car idles/shifts/drives like stock (but faster) the ROM cost me $200 and I hired a dyno a tuned the car myself for $300

Power FC can run in the R33 Autos as the shift computer *isn't* built into the ECU, when you put the PFC in the shift ECU just picks up the signal as usual. R34's are different and have the shift controls integral to the main ECU, so when a mechanic tells you an ECU will be OK, get him to put it on paper so when the car is stuck in 3rd gear and won't shift you don't have to worry about the whack of cash you just wasted. The shift ECU in the R34 has it's own set of maps that control shifts, as long as your base timing is 15 - 20 degrees after tuning (which it should be) the shifting logic works just fine and the car will shift like factory when you just do a ROM tune.

Saw 00HWE merging from Smith St to the M1 about about 170kmh.....tut tut

The gearbox shift-logic is built into the ECU, remap/piggy back is the only choice.

Good find I've been trying to find an equivalent for a while, I think for the cost difference it's worth getting one to try there won't be much to it from a technical standpoint...if anything but plug n play Give Chris Rogers a PM and get his opinion.

Lets say your R34 is an orange and your mates XR6 is an apple..........

Sort of drop in..not that hard to fit though Get yourself 2 x 3" hose clamps to secure the pump to the GTt cradle, cut the inlet tube to the correct length (so it doesn't kink) and secure the sock to the base of the cradle with 2 x 1" hose clamps, at the exact same angle and position as the GTt sock. If you do it right it's very secure, and the pickup is in the same factory position so you don't get any suprises when the fuel level drops.

Well hypothetically if you saw that it was a Green light and was proceeding at the speed limit, then disaster strikes, you sneezed!!!! (that time of the year for hayfever), then as you opened your eyes you saw it was amber but as you were unsure how long it had been amber and by then it was unsafe to apply the brakes heavily, then yes you should pass through.

Price interstate please!!!

coil packs make the car miss, boost cut is like hitting a brick wall, they're not related

What's with Nissan Australia deciding to release GTR's at times of financial crisis, are they determined to FAIL

I'm camera-less until tomorrow

If they are a stock wheel found on any generation of that model, they're legal provided they don't protrude from the guard.

Spotted the delightful Anna loitering in the Yeronga Post Office carpark.....either trying to score some "horse" from a Sudanese person or bludging in general

LOL that tells me a lot about you right there....I was driving behind her in the Queens St carpark....those LED tail lights aren't the best close up, also too much pink action inside the car.

R34's have a boost cut, the sensor in the middle of the firewall will cut ignition if it sees more than 4.7v (~13-14psi) are you running too much boost?

Nothing alike....funny topic this as I was selling a brand new R34 radiator support some time back and got laughed at when I claimed it was rare and hard to find, you don't even want to know how much it sold for on ebay....I was shocked (yet happy)!

Open the ECU and check out the two large power transistors bottom left (plug facing you) up against the side, heatsinked to the body of the ECU. I'm guessing the one of them will show signs of burning out, will be brown/charred and very brittle....to the point when you remove the heatsink to get a clear look it will break. That's my guess, I've seen it before on R34 ECUs, hopefully I'm wrong.

I used to consistantly get under 10L/100kms in my auto 25GT

lots of good solid info here - www.g35frenzy.com

Hmmm at that cost that's where I draw the R34 GTt/GTR line...unless of course you're enjoying the build and it's *VERY* rewarding

Exactly as TO4GTR said mate, you can't test the series 2 coils like a normal coil

Chris Rogers.....is SAU member 'Chris Rogers' he knows the Satnav and stereo systems in all models of Skylines, he'll be able to tell you exactly what's wrong. The screen you have is a rare option in both 25GT's and GTt's