666DAN

Way better choice, build quality on the R34 is much better than the S15's (and their dodgy stagea A/C setup) there is a pretty good reason why back in 1998 a brand new top-spec S15 cost less than the bottom spec R34 in Japan

Yep grab a GTSt pump and fuel regulator (or did you get the complete injectors and rail?) if you can...but saying that, your car isn't starting for another reason....as it will still idle on a GTS pump just fine

The pump should still work, the only difference is a relay for upping the voltage to it under load, that doesn't come into effect at idle. Where is the AFM hooked up? You need a closed system so the air goes through it and gives a reference voltage for the ECU. Also has he got the turbo fuel pump fitted? He'll run into dramas with it leaning out if it's not already in.

Your satnav is trying to get noticed Contact 'Chris Rogers' on here and ask him wtf it's doing

They remind me of Bunnings, when both stores started out they had people that knew their shit as they were trying to draw customers with experience. Now they've got market share they hire any dumbass and customer service has gone through the floor.

Did you repalce the bulb with an LED? They stay on constantly with the fuel light due to the way current is always passing through the system.

Yes that's correct completely detached from the ECU, so it's definately up to no good on its own, no frequencies mentioned

My Bendix were the same, put on Hawk pads that I expected to also be loud and they're not that bad, the odd little squeal here and there

Brad is selling GTT injectors - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l=R34+injectors

Did they connect your O2 sensor back up?

Pending boost.....up to 175rwkw

Yes I'd say it will get progressively worse. My last car had it happen at 49,000kms and was fully dead by 51,000

R33 dump-pipe normally fouls the firewall on an R34, the cat back section will mostly line up though (it did on my last R34)

Yes you're stuck in 3rd gear, your solenoids have shit themselves. There is a current thread in the drivetrain section about it.

Just one wire to the sensor. Between the sensor and ground I get 2.4v DC & 3.4v AC (remember my one is shagged anyway so voltage is off) 2.0v is the recommended reading at idle according to the manual, yeah I've got my one set about there with a diode and now my low/mid-range has reappeared, boost is holding top-end

1)Am i able to rev the engine to say 5000revs a few times a week without harming engine. (Will get services done every 5000km etc) Yes you can, they're decent twincam engines and don't mind revving, they sound best over 5000rpm anyway Seriously my car will often see the rev limit, it's governed anyway to a safe level. 2)Looking for some upgrades when I get the car. How much would better suspension set me back. If you want to do the suspension get a complete handling pack from whiteline...current prices are on their site 3)Would i get any extra KW aftergetting extractors and Exaust installed. How much will i be looking to spend. Yes you will for sure, cost is open ended really. You can get cheaper exhaust put together or see someone for a full custom job ($2000+) 4)How hard is it to find parts for this car e.g. timing belts, brake pads etc Very easy, Nissan stock most parts, Nissan NZ are the most helpful though....realistically all places like Supercheap and Autobarn will have what you need, including caliper paint to get those red calipers

Hopefully it has both "harni" then Yeah the rear flange on the turbos are all the same, it's just the R34's have more of an angle on the dump pipe to clear the firewall.

It's definately active on the R34, the workshop manual has the oscilloscope readings you should be getting from the sensor and goes into detail about the voltage range. Also any attempt to put a resistor accross the input throws a fault on consult straight away.

........or lose

Good score with the e-manage. For simplicity sake, make sure you use an R34 dump on and R34 and an R33 dump on the r33...mainly for firewall clearance, that's all.

It's actually built into the cluster, you can take the cluster out and desolder the bleeper. Appart from that it get's the reverse signal directly from the gear indicator so as far as I know not an easy wire-cut like previous models.

OK then it's the R34 that uses a different type of detection, the ECU recognizes voltage for the GTt

Depends on what the ECU is looking for, most of the Nissan ECU's will register a fault if the knock signal is <1v or >4v that's why I've never understood the resistor mod, as the ECU is looking for voltage NOT a load. If the knock sensor is over sensitive you can wire a series of diode in-line and it will reduce the volage by about 0.3v per diode (what I had to do to my one to get it to ~2v at idle) If you're open circuit most likely the sensor is dead and you need a new one

Just stick an EL falcon plug on where the R34 one is, then just use an EL O2 sensor (same thread as the R34), economical and does the job at a fraction of the price.

R33 Dude...our FS section has loads of them this one is a good price - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...&hl=r33+ecu