666DAN

I use a 3" Magnaforce metal substrate cat, couldn't be happier I've got mates that use them on their S15's and swear by them

My old R34 was 1999 model with log books for 47,000km....when it was stolen (repairable write-off) in 2005 it had 160,000km. Reappeared on Paramatta Rd with 35,000kms Current R34 is a 1998 model with log books for 27,000km, just hit 100,000 the other day

OK Dori, realistically if you are replacing the head-gasket, don't overlook getting a thicker (metal) one to drop the compression....if you're changing it you may as well lose some compression. The R34's don't like too much timing advance and you'll find trying to push more than 8psi your tuner is going to have to know their shit. It may be worth fitting an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust side, run that at a few degrees retarded (increase valve overlap) and advance the CAS so base timing is corrected and you'll stave off detonation a bit more as well, nice little mod IMHO that can cater for extra boost. I'd have a go at seeing what pressure the stock actuator holds firstly, depending on the exhaust system it may happily sit at 8-10psi with no boost control. If you're having issues getting the pressure, then look at a bleed valve over a controller, the boost controller will spool the turbo about 500rpm quicker and may make the car too torquey (if that could be classed as a problem)...but that's only if you don't do the head gasket

You'll find using the stock ECU, if you've got all the matching GTSt bits (pump, fuel, injectors reg etc etc) the tune will be pretty much bang-on with respect to fuel; as stock it runs rich anyway, this will offset the more advanced timing to compression ratio you have. It's a winning combo all round, you can get it on the dyno and still advance/retard the CAS as well to get things fine tuned

Yeah the tune would need to be done at a workshop for sure Everything else can be done at home with some elbow grease

Splitfires -$500 Turbo back exhaust ~$1000 FMIC ~$500 for a kit ECU ~ $1800 (Max price installed & tuned) ROM is the best for auto R34's Fuel pump ~ $200 Injectors ~$600 AFM ~$250 Z32 + plug (CRD sell them) Fuel reg ~$150 ...some sort of HKS turbo, GTRS is great for the RB25 ~$2700 (Brand new kit with everything in it...check out prices delivered from the US also GT2535 is great for ~250rwkw and a bit cheaper) ~$7700 (I'd say 100% on the underside of that if you shop around) Everything there you could fit yourself over a weekend with minimal dramas, I'd advise a proper HKS turbo kit as it has everything you need, no messing around bolt-on...the ECU price is on the top-end as well, just to cover all costs, someone posted about a place that does install and tunes of R34 roms over in the bayside.

Get the following Splitfires Turbo back exhaust FMIC ECU Fuel pump Injectors AFM Fuel reg ...some sort of HKS turbo, GTRS is great for the RB25

The tiptronics are great, they don't like being worked until the gearbox has been warmed sufficiently though and will just flare...I'm not sure if this was more of a protection feature as even new R34's I drove 'back in the day' did this. Generic issues with the box are the shift solenoids breaking, it's crops up here and there...more likely though is the coil packs *will* die, try and get a car that has splifires already installed, or at least factor this into your purchase. It's handy to run the ECU diagnostic as well, just to check any warning codes stored over time. You may get the odd minor one lie "O2 Sensor" or something more on the major side of "Ignition coils" "Shift solenoid" "overheated" Shame you weren't looking around the start of the year, my car was for sale then (realistically still is haha)....not sure if I'm too attached to it now after the awesome changes it's had have a looksi - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/66...html&hl=r34

With the auto 25GT you can actually get away with a PFC, the shift logic ECU is built into the car not the ECU, so taking out the ECU the car can still shift The GT-t doesn't have this luxury For the turbo if you get it for under $250 I wouldn't be concerned with age, you'll still get your $$ out of it. For the R33, just grab an R33 GTSt auto ECU, the tune will be pretty much spot on for when you swap the bits over, you save $600+ dollars and installation of the e-manage Your list looks good, yep water can be taken from the heater hose on the firewall, and returned back to a lower pressure part of the system. I know the GReddy turbo upgrade instructions normally cover this quite well. Same for the oil, T-piece from the oil pressure sensor and use that as a feed, then the return just goes to the sump via the alloy section just above the sump-pan.

Magnetic fuel saver, turbo zet or ebay power chip? Excluding a 2.5L capacity increase or -600Kg , I don't think any turbo owner would be too concerned

You've only got a few choices with the R34 injectors..second hand GTT ones, still a good choice and conveniently cheap. New 480's or bigger which will be a waste. Or new fuel rail setup - $$$ The fact they use top-feeds of a type unlike any other skyline model is a pain. 90K on a turbo is a little bit, but saying that I still saw 70K on top of the one I had and the seals weren't too bad towards the end.

If they're anything like my neo knock sensors they're shagged and telling the ECU that grenades are in the engine (even with the engine not running)

Kryz!!! <3

Yep AFRs are horrible, knock sensor is probably going nutso

Yeah would have been my first question..."what management do you have?" Otherwise it's just going to be a 'wind up the boost & check AFR's & timing on the dyno' type situation.

An elusive creature that isn’t easily found amongst the horde of pseudo-tuners or pretenders, when you find a good one, don’t let them go!!! Well most people requesting a tuner most likely have engine management that can be played with, so needing a tune is applicable. People that say they need a tune with stock ECU aren’t going to get much done in essence, just a timing check and look here and there.

Back from the past....more to add. The knock sensor on my car is reading an alarming 3.4v even when the car isn't running. Normally anything over 3v makes the ECU drop timing, so the car has been running in a sort of "limp mode" for ages. I've fiddled with the sensor and it now puts out a solid 2.0v (what it should at idle, and now the car feels a lot more responsive...back to the dyno we go. bloody cars!

Damit is teh winner!

A general safe rule is - If you can't afford to replace it or get it rebuilt, avoid cheaper Chinese products with "precision" moving parts or that items are exposed to high heat, turbos fall into both categories so the risk is higher. There are however many products that don't fall under those descriptions that are pretty damn good for the money.

Yeah this is my car, bonus points for guessing where the picture was taken Oh and Kate, yeah you're going to get spammed to death by 18yo guys now, but don't worry....you can now say some pretty stupid shit and you'll still get guys falling over themselves backing you up (purely in context to other SAU girls from other states that I've seen) you're nothing like *those* girls thank god

Algester PO FTW! I go there almost every single day, I see boostdR32 a bit not sure if you see me though lol I'm Honeysuckle side of the Mt Lindsay

You'll probably find MV are cosy with a transformer/motor re-winder, they do solenoids all the time

Speaking from experience, once packs start palying up the car runs like shit, you lose power and get missing high in the rev range under boost, and that's if you haven't already lost cylinders. It's all down hill after they go. My advice to anyone that buys an R34 is "factor coil-packs in the price and do them straight away"

They're definately a good workshop, and they've done an R34 before so won't be strangers to it

Never replace with OEM Nissan coil-packs....they're the reason why you're in this situation. Get splitfires and never look back. Just replacing one coil means you'll get another do the same thing very soon, in the end all 6 *will* die and you've spent a billion dollars installing a replacement pack at a time. Do it right the first time, splitfires!