666DAN

Set gain was 0.65 Bar...... What controller are you using, these are all Profec B Spec II numbers I'm throwing at you

Veyron is an "Epic car" literally over 9000:P

Apparently I used to use this for 12psi 55% 15% Gain 0.65 Set Gain

Yes, she's been allowed to drive when I've become "accidently drunk" while on a social visits. However it has put her off as she discovered that it doesn't take much to break traction in the wet....but going from a FWD Mirage to RWD turbo is a big leap and I'm sure she could learn to enjoy the sensation

Must have fixed the firmware to prevent the leaking current? I wouldn't count on the packs lasting too long if they haven't regluated the voltage to under 2 volts though. Why are you still selling/installing the blue...surely you can convince the owners the benefits of the ultimate over something so outdated?

Common knowledge that it keeps a constant (dwell) current flowing to the packs, the type afflicted are R33 Series 2, R34's, S15's etc etc where the ignitor is inbuilt. Other cars to cop it use a similar setup, most notebly the Mazda RX-8 where I think the issue was first seen overseas. I've seen R34's with smoking packs after a 10 minute dyno run with a freshly installed (correctly) blue. The ignitor signal is also quite a high voltage in comparison to the trigger voltage....5v minimum on the emanage blue, it should be sitting around 1.5-17v MAX So unless Firmware updates have solved the issue (and even if they have) are you really going to argue putting in a $1.20 mod just in case? Covered many times on e-manage forums as well, after I first discovered the issue some time back http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/message/5191 http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/message/5927

R34 GT - Manual - ????? - Auto - RC43 - 4.36 : 1 R34 GTT - Manual - RC41 - 4.11 : 1 - Auto - RC40 - 4.0 : 1

Nah it's not the alternator, he's getting the A/T flash sequence as well....solenoids are a common issue with R34's

That purpose of that adapter is to stop the check engine light coming up, doesn't stop you nuking coils. You need to put a 3.3V Zener diode in, wired in reverse bias with the ignition signal wire to each pack. This lets an overflow voltage of 1.7v (instead of 5v) to trigger the coils and no constant parasitic current flow that will melt them in minutes.

Get splitfires straight away!!!!!, do not pass go, do not collect $200

Yep it fixed it 100% it's an annoying fault to find as when the solenoids are room temp, they test OK...it's only when you heat them up that you find they have gone open circuit. Change them both and never worry about it again

looks like an Aston, sounds like an Aston.....

Missfiring R34 *ALWAYS* = coilpacks My second R34, the first thing to get done on it was a set of splitfires....I never wanted to go through the frustration of those bloody things playing up ever again. Not doing them just wastes dyno time. I always say to anyone buying an R34, always factor immediately a coilpack swap, the packs were just manufactured shit and don't last, no amount of electrical tape, silicone, gypsy tears will fix something that is inherent in the triggering circuit of these things. Don't skimp on JJR bullshit, just get splitfires

Manifold yes, plenum no...seats nfi

Good to see Mr Sparkle is back on the scene!

Bah, leave the manifold in place you'll find it's a nice challenge......that's what I keep telling myself

Some more 8000K on the way, first week of July

A/C takes 2 x T5's (modded) they're $7.50 delivered...or $5 in with a normal order

It needs to look just like the pic and should fit just fine????

*shudder* it is a horrible job to do though, space is limited but it's not impossible...nice to see it's coming along Brad!

wow amazed it got that price considering the amout of specical release 18yo stuff that's out there......I think my mate still has 12 bottles of it stashed away.

You're not closing your door before you go to lift the boot are you? If my door closes it locks the boot again, I normally pop-it, then swiftly run to open it before my door closes

LOL great way to lean you're engine out, the TCS is a fine balance between ignition and fuel cut (3 cylinders off) and blancing the air to match via the butterfly, letting more air in due to grinding the buterfly down will push your AFRs stupidly high.

Good grief, that's bad! Hopefully it's just the pump. At 0.8bar I was still seeing 11's....back the boost off, stopping driving hard in any way shape or form!

The googles are your friend just search for profec A install instructions and you'll get a billion web pages, better still go to www.greddy.com and all the manuals are there! Try the link below, and your answers are revealed! http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/1280.pdf