666DAN

Hard to see???? See down the page on this link Also watch ebay very carefully, I'm r34neo on there...my LEDs are good with light spread, the other clown is selling kits without knowing what the car takes and he's using the poor convex type which give very bad results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8385&st=360

R34's are better >5.1v on the AFM.....cut!!! >4.8v on the boost sensor....cut!!! 2-pronged approach required for them, Z32 and a proper voltage clamp on the boost sensor works a treat.

Pttttsssssshhhhh

lol I forgot about this, been tied up with exhaust woes...cool, but will I get around to fitting it hahaha

Give me a chance, only just swapped the dump over last night It's booked in for Thursday next week Dan

Yeah, like a paint-brush...that's the theory I'm going with

R34 are top feed, and according to power enterprise drop-in replacements...they're 380cc. Technically, dragged from the depths of Nissan technical knowledge first hand they're 386cc

My actuator is an adjustable, set at 15psi with the split dump it wouldn't hold 15psi to save it's life (same for stock actuator and RB20 actuator...to be expected) adding more pre-load was just seeing a bigger psi peak which still dropped off to 11psi. With the bellmouth fitted, when pre-loaded to 15psi it holds, yey! Moral of the story, with the turbo on my car the split dump didn't seem to be beneficial at all and led to boost drop-off...I suspect low pressure on the wastegate was helping it get pulled open by the exhaust gas up against it.

SOLD

Later dude......."SLAYER"

OK it's off the car and ready to go, very very minor scratch on the under side, near the CAT

Problem Fixed!!!!! The Bellmouth has made a difference, putting preload on the actuator is now actually working and not just blowing open. I've got a solid 15psi now ....no need for the Profec anymore though

lol yes, and the fact you can watch the actuator open while on the dyno is a bit of a giveaway. I'm not your typical SAU n00b Dan

Yeah 100% the actuator mate, dropped the exhaust and took the car for a spin...sounded tough but boost still faded away. Putting a bellmouth dump on tomorrow in the hope to equalize the back pressure accross the wastegate flap and stop it being blown open by the low pressure that's currently sitting behind it (the split dump is split too well)

You mean blowing out the ass like this? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=109984 15psi on an HKS actuator with *NO* boost line connected to it, freeboosting

All lies Josh, just preoccupied with the car...and basically why it's not cracking 350hp at the wheels.....changing the dump over tomorrow and playing with the spring preload hoping to stop the wastegate blowing open :S

Greatly?

Great, yet another time I can't make it! Damn you Vish...damn youuuuuuuuuuuu!

Mark, thanks for all the replies...just lots of bad timing getting back to me We can still talk H4's though

I'm selling my CES Racing split dump pipe for an R34 GT-t it's HPC coated and retails for well over $700 new Stainless steel with stainless finish HPC it's in great condition and is a work of art, excellent welds and overall quality job, just doesn't suit my current setup on the car. located in Brisbane $500 ono

I'm selling my CES Racing split dump pipe for an R34 GT-t it's HPC coated and retails for over $700 new Stainless steel with stainless finish HPC it's in great condition and is a work of art, excellent welds and overall quality job, just doesn't suit my current setup on the car. located in Brisbane $500 ono looks like this (someone elses pic I've borrowed)

prepare for ~95rwkw!!! lol

That's exactly right, it doesn't make a shred of sense that a split with a 2" exhaust side would flow as much as a full 3" bellmouth with a turbo running decent boost. I stand by my opinion they're good for stock but not for modified highflow

Probably ferrocene, raises octane easily 1 point per 300ppm in the fuel. It's an organometallic and works by delaying the flame front in the cylinder. There is a calcium one that is more effective. But most commercial boosters are ferrocene...when it burns it turns to micronised iron oxide, that's why it turns turbines rust red coloured.

he means he's got the bottletop wedged in the return from the BOV. I had to do this to check to see if my BOV was leaking. Just undo the return pipe and knock the cap out, this'll stop it fluttering and you'll get the response back from between gearchanges also.