frigjam

We have had our car broken into twice in the Tranmere/Howrah area twice over the last few months. Luckily wasn't stolen but messed a few things up, locks, ignition barrel, even had set the driver air bag off It now has 3 point immobilisation, 3 x 120db sirens (under bonnet, under dash driver sider, under centre console), also fitted solex locks. It hasn't been touched since touch wood. My other non-airbag cars I always have the quick release boss kits and take the steering wheel with me...

The autospoilers on the 32's were fairly rare, and only came as an option on the stock R32 GTS / GTS-t front bar (Not the Type M Aero front bar). There was a switch inside for up / down / auto. Auto being it folded down automatically at a certain speed, 80km i think. They arent overly desirable but a cool feature none-the-less

Check out Yahoo... they come up every now and then. Here's a fibreglass copy of original Type M skirts http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g76648078 It took me ages to find a set of good condition genuine plastic ones for my 4 door... Good luck!

Cheers, will post up more pics when its painted

The R32 this weekend getting some love (and seeing daylight) for the first time in a couple of years. Finally got around to finishing off the body work. Looks a bit rough in several different colours thus far, but its ready for paint... HKS Hyper-Ds to go in and then it will sit a fair bit lower. Not sure how it will get out my driveway tho

Ah, I knew you had a 33 sedan at one stage, I thought you sold it... Or is this another one? lol.

Sorry to be a bit off topic Dan, but what car u got needing a 4WD box? If not, I'd be interested to know why u want a 4WD box? Cheers Paul.

Hey mate cant help you with selling the BBS's, but I can help your mate selling his Professors, haha Those specs are EXACTLY what I am after mate, I'd be all over those like a fat kid on a cupcake.

Surely someone has one laying around somewhere in tassie? Cheers Paul

r32 series 1 or 2 original plastic front bar wanted, any colour and in decent condition. located in hobart. pref local due to getting stuffed around last time. please pm if u can help. cheers paul

I have 2 NICS redtop engines in pieces scattered around the place, I may be able to help also.... all electrical parts have been whored off them however.

All pre 91 cars I had noticed they all refer to the engines as rb20dt or vg30dtt etc, but later models re-establish the E in the engine model name, which is a bit odd but doesnt make any difference whatsoever.

Type 1 board, its the stock 200ZR / HR31 Skyline ECU (same ECU for both models). Type 2 boards are generally R32 type ECU's and completely different, no type 2 board will direct plug in. As a matter of fact, we have just finished about the 5th revision board for the Redtop NICS engine, and I have been the guinea pig. All is well now and just made 170rwkw on the rollers, stock as a rock except R33 turbo and big fuel pump. MASSIVE difference, the stock ECU has over boost protection, goes into a semi 'limp mode' when the AFM hits its max voltage reading, sending injector cut and all sorts of bizarre shit, you will never have any success with the stock ECU if you are modding the car, trust me!

sounds exactly like my situation when I got my late model 200zr! its also running an r32 eninge with the 200zr ecu/loom... my tip if u want more from the stock ecu (rather than changing to the r32 loom of full aftermarket) is try www.nistune.com and you'll have a fully tunable ecu, the stock ecu settings are rubbish.

All 200ZR's have the R200 long nose LSD, as far as I know, and mine is a 4.3:1 which is what the HR31 skyline rb20det is also. Gearboxes all look the same but vary slightly, series 1 have single syncros, same as VL and local R31. Series 2 (californian shape) have double syncros, basically same as an R32. Visually the R32 / 200ZR boxes look the same, same diminsions etc so there is no problems fitting an R32 box in. An upgrade would be an R33 box, would require a slight shortening of the tail shaft.

This one I have here is already in parts so have already worked that bit out.

Another thing to consider, a manual box is 100x times easier and cheaper to repair if something goes wrong, those tiptronic boxes can be quite complicated so I would cringe at the cost of fixing something! If your buying a car that is reaching 10 years old, your bound to hit a few problems along the way.

I am after the standard exhaust wheel for a RB25DET turbo, I believe off a R33 series 1. It is a ceramic type. Would be keen on either another ceramic or steel wheel. Only need the exhaust wheel for my turbo, but would consider buying a whole buggered turbo with a good exhaust wheel if its possible. Cheers Paul.

Good question actually, I have never really thought about a 'proper' process to do this... I've done about 20 or so clutches, and when putting on my freshly machines flywheel I just do them up as tight as i can with a nice long handle sidchrome ring spanner, and to stop the engine turning I use a small pinch bar and jam it between the teeth of the flywheel and the back of the engine somehow, its handy to have a mate for this part. Sounds a bit backyard mechanics but Ive never had a problem. I wouldnt use loctite, would make it a biatch to remove if you had to...

Pics of the bonnet here: http://pmtacey.customer.netspace.net.au/IMAGE_078.jpg http://pmtacey.customer.netspace.net.au/IMAGE_079.jpg Its the passenger front corner that has some damage, although have fitted it on the car and it all lines up perfectly, just needs some bog. The paint is already 1/2 stripped so thats why it looks patchy. $100 firm on this one, or if you want the guards too $500 the lot. Will upload pics of the guards soon....

I know of two people who have done this conversion and used the original head bolts, they were in visually good condition and if torqued up properly, they should be fine. If they dont look right, don't use them. Obviously it would be best to buy new ones if you can, but there is no reason the original ones wont be ok, just remember, they are probably 10-15 years old now...

having owned and worked on both cars, I can definitely say they they look the same, however without physically trying the rail not 100 percent, but I dare say it will fit.... injectors are different to a normal rb30, but ironically are identical to vl turbo ones. vl turbo fuel rail is the same as a normal rb30 I believe. and no a silvertop R32 is different in lots of ways, ecu, loom and sensors all different, intake manifold, otherwise mechanically very similar.

I also have a damaged 32 GTR aluminium bonnet, probably fixable I dont really remember the extent of the damage, but it was just bent a bit in one corner i believe. Would be wicked on a drift car, or fix if u can.... PM if interested also.

I have a brand new pair of 32 GTR front guards, they are fibreglass, slightly wider than stock GTR guards, also have vents in them. They look pretty cool, but I had never got around to fitting them, as now Im selling my car, Ill have no need for them. Pics up later if I can... Please PM me if interested. Price is $450 for them. PICK UP ONLY PLEASE. Located in Hobart area.

I'd be suggesting to have a look at a Nistune for pure ease of installation (once chipped you can still drive the car on a pre-loaded base map) and price wise... I have one on my RB20 and stoked with it so far, its not finished with a proper tuned yet as my tuner is playing around and learning the software so far, but extremely happy. The R33 ECU is not able to take the Nistune daughterboard, but works with an R32 RB20 ECU and a base R33 map loaded, if that makes sense... The website says it in more detail.