mokompri

wanna clear these things out of my garage guys. im in the pennant hills area, sydney. there is alot of interest in certain parts, thus im not holding anything, first in first served, thanks. willing to ship interstate at buyers cost, and best way to contact me is through PM, as i dont wish to post personal information on here. nismo gear knob 10mm (180sx etc) $SOLD HKS super sequential $SOLD pending payment stock 180sx 370cc injectors $25 boss kit for hicas s13's (no pretty pic)SOLD pending payment momo steering wheel, VERY good nick basically brand new $250 genuine Greddy a-pillar gauge cup $SOLD greddy oil relocator for s13's (missing rubber o-ring) $SOLD lightning audio 1 farad cap with displayed voltmeter $60 momo knob (badly damaged logo ontop, otherwise very good nick) $10 infinities 6x9's (VERY good speakers only selling because they dont fit s15, kept the 6", handles 110wrms - can hear the 6" in my car if you want) $80 camber plates front and rear never used, brand new from japan unknown brand $SOLD set of s13 aircon vents $40 (or $10 each and $15 for centre) genuine apexi strut brace very good nick $SOLD pending payment jaycar IEBC, built & ready to go electronic boost controller $SOLD s13 ignition cover $25 manual boost controller, famous SAU ball and needle design $SOLD triple gauge holder for s15 but can work on anything, brand new never used japaneses 'border' brand $90

before you even bother changing anything, are you actually having any oil temperature related problems ?? i would take a guess that although its not in the most ideal position, it will still be effective enough where it is. its not a case of finding the best location gives you more power (like a fmic), but rather its purpose is to just regulate oil temps and keep them under control. if its doing that job already, then there isnt any need to move it.

my sr20det solenoid has a duty cycle range between 8-92% from memory. solenoids do have pressure limits. your having a different issue altogether though. what do you mean your trying to close it ? its a normally open solenoid isnt it, as in with no power connected no air flows through ? the IEBC should be opening it. if you have a normally closed solenoid (opposite operation) you need to make a jumper change from memory, but im quite sure nissan solenoids are all of the normally open type.

the HKS version also comes with the boost multiplexing ECU which allows for a quicker spool, along with the push pull spool valve its definately the better t04z

do you even have any experience with sr20det's ?? the ecu doesnt see boost pressure fyi, it sees airflow from the afm. the stock t25g can run 1bar of airflow no problems on the stock ecu so i dont see how you deduce the ecu as the problem. it would help your case alot if you could provide afr's and boost pressure layed ontop of that dyno sheet. but basically with the way the stock ecu behaves you should be getting around 10:1 afr's in the top end, not ~12.5. this would indicate lack of fuel pressure or lack of flow from the injectors. your already pushing it on the injectors in terms of flow, and so even a slight lack of pressure could push them to 100% where they will max out. its rare to find a faulty FPR, but first thing i would be doing is having your fuel pressure checked through the rpm range. did the tuner say what duty cycle the injectors were hitting ? fwiw i ran a gt2530 turbo on my previous sr20det and pulled ~220rwkw on about 17psi with all supporting mods including step 1 cams. i also had similiar drama with fuel flow, it ended up being a 'faulty' walbro pump even though it was an original.

33psi ey, interesting... the highest cylinder pressures occur during the combustion stroke which is more related to airflow/power made rather then outright psi. more power, more bang, higher cylinder pressures. clear cut 33psi sounds like hes experienced it once at that level and believes it applies to all.

people pull more then 160rwkw on the stock ECU all the time, i dont think thats the issue 13psi on a 2530 isnt really much airflow, you can get that on the stock turbo.. the t25g can usually pull 175-180 with the support mods on 1 bar/~14psi he also mentioned he had a bosch pump if its lean, then 'richens' up to 12.5 in the top end you have a fuelling issue (check fuel pressure), your graph is very choppy. be aware that your injectors are going to max out very soon though, they definately need an upgrade for the full potential of the 2530 and also you need to swap your afm for at least an rb25 one.

you need to give us more information.. the only thing we can deduct from what you have told us so far is that your not making what you should be. even with the stock computer you should make more then that at 13psi. post up the graph, gives us a complete run down of mods (afm, injectors, pump etc), what did your tuner say, anything unusual happening etc

if there was a problem with the rebuild i would expect it to cause issues alot earlier then 30,000km's. Although i can understand your unhappy, i wouldnt make any assumptions till its been pulled down and the cause is found.

jap bolt in intercoolers with better flowing cast end tanks FTW.. im not a fan of the local auto industry, in all the experience ive had its been 90% negative

true, space, configuration and electronic limitations (ala prius) would probably make it harder, but the concept still holds true. thicker wire is generally for more amperage not voltage, increasing voltage and decreasing amperage would make the current wiring quite ample. it only has 1 single block battery ? that seems unlikely, but either way power to weight would still improve. since when was anything 'fast enough' on sau

easily. double the voltage to the motor and you get a theoretical doubling of power (although this never happens due to increasing thermal losses). some wiring changes to the effect of running more batteries in series then parallel, you could achieve a *close* to doubling in power, but also halving in mileage per charge. The only addon you would need is extra cooling for the motor for all the extra heat. of course you could just add more batteries and keep your mileage the same..

1 of your mates blowing his engine doesnt really mean much at all though, does it. its not really an indication of the capability or strength of the engine, but probably more an indication of his lack of experience/knowledge! anyone can blow any motor even an rb25 *pulls wastegate hose off. your inference seems to be that sr20's are a grenade just waiting to blow up, which is far from it.. also keep in mind, the s15 has a lower weight which means it needs less power to match the power to weight ratio of the skyline. also your power figure seems very 'happy' as for the turbo blowing im quite surprised.. s15's all run steel wheeled compressor and turbine wheels, where as the rb25 of the r34's (afaik) are the ones with the weak ceramic wheels that blow with too much boost. the other explanation for its death would be a rock through the intake or oil starvation, which could happen to any turbo car that isnt cared for. but i do agree that the best thing for this person to do is to drive both cars and buy whatever HE likes

i dont think anyone really cares how much they flow outright, its a matter of what works better a 2.5" pipe may flow enough for you to make 400hp, but if switch to 3" your sure to make a decent gain.

gtir = sr20det