mokompri

550cc's will be more then enough for a gt2530 ... dont bother with new rail either stock one will be again fine for your application

haha oops, my bad i hit reply instead of pm..

hey funky im interested in the software, can you give me some details on how to get it ? or even email it to me :angel: cheers, kaveh

thats very impressive SK ! from what i know at = atmo temp, it = inlet temp, and that these are used to compensate for diff temps to give 'equal' readings in various environments, am i right ? but what are the true workings behind it, you seem to indicate you know

yeah definately was, but like i said my hicas was having problems before installation and i have a 180 not a skyline, dont know if the hicas works the same or not, but i found my hicas unit had no electrical connection to it ie meaning it was purely mechanically controlled, now i dont know if the KHB boss made it worse, or it was just that it was progressively getting worse from the original problem, but it was doing strange things with the boss kit on

decreasing gap size reduces the amount of energy needed to ionize (spelling right?) the air to create a spark, so if your getting misfires and have to reduce the gap then your ignition system cant ignite the mixture under the conditions where misfiring occurs the larger the gap you have, the more of the spark energy is passed onto the air fuel mix and gives you a more even burn as the flame front gets a better start, and yes there is a point when too much does nothing for power

there are many people making 230rwkw on sr20's with gt2530 on around 1.2bar, so i would imagine it wouldnt be too hard for rb20's either other people with sr20's that run the gt2535 had about 10-20rwkw more, but the mid range and down low loss was considerable, it would have probably been better with some step 1 cams, but i personally would go with teh gt2530 on a 2L engine purely for the down low spool

crap, it made my hicas go hay-wire and kept progressively getting worse, although my hicas didnt seem healthy even before the install it was no where near as bad id say to anyone who has hicas and considering getting a hicas boss kit... DONT ! save the 30 bucks and put it towards the $110 lock kit there selling on here, i have to say its the most enjoyable mod i have done, handling has improved vastly and i now have a new understanding of oversteer ! before the lock kit the car was understeering very badly, i just didnt realise how much so until i locked up the hicas, the difference was unbelievable

i actually got one of these HKB hicas compatible boss kits from the local autojoy shop, although my experience was far from joyfull, had to go back 3 times to get the right horn button ring, but anyways long story short i now have a hicas lock kit, its useless (the boss kit) and just made it worse, oh btw i have an sr 180 not a skyline, but im sure he had the same brand boss kits for skylines

im pretty sure that 1350nm is tractive effort that its showing get some cams, bigger turbine on the turbo, that should make things breath better up top and give some nice power in the higher revs :aroused:

nah was talking about this reply funky :wassup:

10K !! nah look on nissansilvia.com under sponsor section, they have kits for most nissans for around 1300

which ones the racing hart or the work meister ones ? ps, serious seven, are you sure those wheels on the fc are work meister ones ? they look closer to these simmons rims ive seen, the spokes look a bit different to the work rims..

remember the safc is only good for open loop, it has no control when the ecu is in closed loop, so it is limited...

yeap swap to z32 and it will give you more headroom if you max out the afm near the very top say for example 6500rpm, then you can tune the 5v signal to be spot on for 7500, and just have a rich spot from 6500 to around 7400 just to avoid a lean mixture and detonation up top i personally would just get bigger afm though

yeah 60kw seems like too much, i really dont see a single butterfly freeing up that much restriction over the 6 individual... if its all out drag then its alrite, but on a street or track setup i would keep the 6 butterflies, much better throttle response, but obviously it doesnt matter in this instance

those injectors look damn familiar... is there a stock US market subaru that comes with these ? ive seen them around ... i'll post up tonite which model it is, im sure ive seen these on ebay being listed as side feed, although i wasnt sure of the resistance, and they looked exactly the same with same colour very good price though i'll dig up some more info on it and list what subaru motor it comes on

btw they are a physical straight swap in afaik with the rb25 and sr20 injectors, both high impedance side feed, the only thing im not sure about is the plugs but i would imagine these are straight swap too

coming from the sr community, i can tell you there are a quite few people pushing there s15 turbos and injectors to around 200-210rwkw with some extra fuel rail pressure and there pretty maxed out at around 190rwkw with stock fuel rail pressure.. so if you have 6 of then i would imagine something like 200/4 x6= 300rwkw would be possible with extra fuel rail pressure there is someone on silviansw.com selling a set of 4 for $300 for anyone interested too

excuse my ignorance, but what on earth are they

no worries 4door, no offence taken, opinion noted, lots of people use fpr's and use them successfully, its just my way and opinion to keep stock pressure and just get bigger injectors, although i dont even have a skyline motor i have a sr20det nissan, most of the sr crowd go the bigger injector route

believe it or not there is all the new street directories have a listing of them all..

gee thanx ! no need for comments like that, if ive made a mistake somewhere, im happy to be corrected, i put forward my opinion, what exactly have i said thats caused such a comment from you ? you werent too specific... rising regs just arent my cup of tea, depending on how much boost your running if you have a 2:1 ratio rising reg, your going to see some pretty damn high pressure going through your injectors, ie 80psi+ ... if you think your injectors can handle that, then by all means go for life but if what you want is safety, which is what hes looking for, then maybe you should reconsider

i THINK they normally quote it at 3 bar (~45psi), but dont quote me, rather quote a spec sheet off there site and tell us all hehe

mmm i doubt it will, unless you have a shitty regulator, the pressure is simply a result of the restriction from the pressure regulator and it should accomodate for any extra flow and keep its pressure consistent, although its a common DIY trick to upgrade the wiring to your fuel pump, so you get less voltage drop + more current to the pump, which increases its FLOW, not pressure