mokompri

i dont think that example applies here.. obviously a car thats primarly for the street its going to lose some luxeries with weight reduction, but if your only after performance and you track your car frequently enough, or even if your willing to have a street car without some niceties say air con, sound deadening, rear seats etc, then there is plenty to gain. some of the silvia guys have bought down their weight to 1 tonne, from the stock 1250 kilos. if your running 230rwkw with a gt2530 in a stock silvia and you dropped your weight to 1 tonne, thats the equivalent of the stock weighted car being upgraded from the 230rwkw to ~290rwkw (based on power to weight ratios) with NO increase in lag or fuel consumption. the car will also be more nimble and the brakes would be under much less strain. of course the trade off is luxeries, and depends what you personally want out of your car, but theres no money to be spent, just ripping stuff out. bang for buck, you have to admit thats an extremely good (if not the best) performance upgrade for no dollars ! and being that you guys drive skylines/whales, im sure there is even more weight to be lost i think sk's example was something along the lines of where they have this track car with a tube chassis and containing nothing a track car needed already, and losing a few kilos by say replacing the whole chassis with a newly designed one that weighed less (pure example)... sure this would cost alot for not much gain, but its not applicable to the road going cars we drive, theres definately gains to be made.

but roy how else are you going to spend 15K to only make 220rwkw ? the money has to go somewhere !.. in the end an opinion is an opinion, if he wants to do that, then let him be imo scathing has a good point too, you could always upgrade to a silvia hehe

if you want the engine to rev 'faster', you need to reduce reciprocating mass, as you already seem to know. if you plan on rebuilding, lighter pistons and rods will help in that department, and an increase in compression as already mentioned too will go well for your power goals. everything else has been mentioned

flow figures mean absolutely nothing without the pressure differential mentioned.

maybe its time to upgrade... SR POWA sorry had to say it

actually what your saying is a myth. if we were talking about a balloon which deformed proportionally to the amount of force applied to it, then yes this would apply. but when you have a tyre with stiff sidewalls, the deformation is no where near proportional, and so size of the contact patch does vary.

ahh well in that case i dont think you would get much of a different reading between taking a reading from say the plenum, and comparing it to the coolers outlet. maybe 2-3 degrees in it at max

yeah i remember that thread, apparently HKS have changed the material their cam gears are made of so they dont have this issue anymore, i think SK mentioned this. its rotating mass, so it will make a difference, whether you can 'feel' it is another story, sort of equivalent to cars running hollow camshafts to reduce rotating mass of valvetrain, so it will be worth something however small.

by inlet temp i assume you mean IC inlet temp, and the advantages of that i what is wrote in response to pauls post on the first page. i would mount the sensor in the actual stream of airflow, rather then taking temps of the core itself. if the cores temp is too high, it will show on the temp of the intake charge, so measuring that i believe is more effective. the primary concern is air charge temps, and measuring the cores temp doesnt always give a good indication of that.

well if its setup to spray when temps go up, it shouldnt ever become heat soaked as its cooled by the water. it depends where the switchover point is, but if you set it at around 55-60 degrees, then intake charge temps should never reach that whilst in vacuum, no matter how much the cooler has been heat soaked. and yes the autospeed ones are quite good !

consider everything, outlet temps arent going to much over ambient when the car isnt moving because your not on boost and in vacuum and thus it wont switch it on, because those conditions (high temp + stationary) will never be met ! if somehow you are getting overly high temps when your on vacuum, then your cooler must be SERIOUSLY cooking and over saturated, in which case the spray should come on anyways, to reduce the cores temp and bring up its efficiency again

generally speaking water spray kits are used to combat against heat soak or the core reaching heat saturation. if the core isnt saturated and is giving say temps only 10deg above ambient post intercooler then it wouldnt make much sense to use the spray based on compressor outlet temps, because that would be whenever it reaches a certain boost pressure/rpm but could still pumping out reasonable post cooler temps. it would be much more effective, efficient and economical to use the spray based on temps POST intercooler, once the core is saturated either through constant boosting or heat soak and you start seeing temps say 25 degrees above ambient, then the spray will come to good use to bring it down and remove excess heat from the core. personally i dont think AFM voltage or load/TPS voltage are needed as parameters either. the goal of the water spray setup is to stop temps into the engine (post cooler) from being too high. regardless of what the afm or tps is doing, if the temps are too high, it should be activated. if the temps are low, and your afm output is activating the spray, then its pointless because the temps were already fine. running all the inputs in series wont be as effective either, because you may have a situation with high post cooler temps but the tps voltage is still too low to activate the spray.

it is true that dyno is only a tool for tuning, but none the less when there is such a large discrepency you shouldnt just generalise it like that and forget about it. theres no need to be changing anything like your pump or FPR, why dont you instead *TEST* them. in one simple test you can check both, its called 'checking fuel pressure'. any workshop with a dyno should have a fuel pressure gauge, get them to hook it up and run it on the dyno (workshop is useless for not doing it already). if fuel pressure isnt sitting at what is stock for RB's then it could be your FPR, if it holds pressure down low, but it starts to taper off up top, then thats indicative of a dying fuel pump. being that the power figure is a little happy, the actual wideband meter may not be correctly calibrated either(ie useless workshop). solution ? goto another workshop and get a second opinion/another dyno run for comparison

no, offset does affect track. track is measured based on the centre of the wheel. negative offsets that push the wheels out further (and which co-incidently push the centre of the wheels out too), increase track. if you want even track front and rear, you aim to have the *centre* of the front and rear wheels inline. like this: | | | | the lines indicating the imaginery centre line of the wheels. .[|] [|] [ | ][ | ] this second picture shows how a staggered set of wheels (different widths) will need to be to have equal track front and rear. with that in mind you should be able to calculate what size spacers you need based on the offset and width of the rims, so these need to be known.

when changing valves, do you base your choice on experience or do you run something like a simulation etc ?

interesting, new rules ? can you give me link to the rules section with this in it, i cant find it what constitutes bad though, like slandering ? or for example say if i said, 'they sent me the wrong part' is that statement considered 'bad' and thus not allowed, or is it considered purely factual and therefore allowed on topic i found greenline to be great, great service

nice story haha, enjoyed it. some tips and info, the reason why the smell stays after cleaning is because cleaning usually only does the surface. what causes the stink to remain for so long afterwards is rotting protein. the chunder that was spewed in your car is full of proteins from whatever this bitch consumed, and this protein is a haven for bacteria to thrive on and create smells. unfortunately proteins bond very well to fabrics and foam. so even if you steam clean and all that, there is still going to be alot of protein entrenched in the foam underneath the fabric. best thing to do is remove seats, remove all visible signs of chunks, and use a cleaning agent with enzymes that break down proteins ie washing powder. you need to soak the whole seat in it, foam and fabric !

what issue was this ?

could you give a bit more detail please, i have an s13 and looking at the RS but no one seems to use them ! when you say 'grabby', you mean it locked up easily at slow speeds ?

this guy can get it done for you, at a very reasonable price http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=166919 kaveh

anyone have experience with cusco lsd's ? http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_lsd.html specifically the RS, which is supposed to be smoother due to its spring operation. it looks good on paper for a street car, also the bonus of these cusco lsd's is that you buy the one lsd and you can configure it anyway you like 1, 1.5 or 2 way !

this *shouldnt* actually happen because both sides of the diaphragm will be seeing the same boost pressure. although a pressure loss through the IC may give a difference between the boost on the vacuum feed and the boost on the IC pipe that the BOV is on, if its mounted before the IC. even though my BOV is also plumbed back, i still get a drop in revs below idle sometimes when i get off the throttle sharply i dont think there is any sweet spot so to speak either, but then it just goes back to the age old argument of how a bov really affects your cars performance, if you think the 'unloaded' compressor surge on closed throttle causes damage or slows your car down, then adjust the bov so it opens asap without causing stalling issues. if your a believer of the other side of the fence, which i am, you can set it at a higher point so that it only opens when you hit high boost.

this is exactly what the SSautochrome (http://www.ssautochrome.com/) manifolds came out with (brace from turbine flange to head flange). SSautochrome were one of the first, if not THE first to come out with the 'cheapy' style ebay manifolds. when they first came out, everyone jumped on the bandwagon and dismissed them as cheap crap that was useless and would crack easily. the first manifold they came out with was for the sr20det. ive now been running one for almost a year now with no dramas, and its also heat wrapped. there have been 0 reports of SSautochrome manifolds cracking on 2 big silvia forums i frequent. although some of the other cheapy manifolds that are coming out china have had issues, mainly its the ones that have welds on the runners. the SSautochrome ones have a one piece runner design mandrel bent. the collector design is also fairly decent. flange on mine was off by around 1mm off from side to side, a bit of elbow grease with a metal sanding block and it was fine. didnt require machining i suggest if your looking for a stainless steel manifold to get ones that have a one piece runner design to reduce chances of cracking. also as SK mentioned that brace is a good idea as well, it will stop the manifold from 'drooping' from the weight of whats hanging off it, when its hot. the 6boost manifolds ive seen look very nice indeed, but they are pricier.

yeah it will be, but so what ?

AFAIK bikes dont have any traction issues once there off the line, so theres not much point in having downforce which only has an effect at ~100km/hr+, it will only further slow it down. you have the power to weight ratios off a little too, going by a 2006 R1's weight 173kg dry weight + 70kg rider = 243kg with 250hp 250/243 = 1.02 hp/kg F1 car + driver = 600kg with 800hp 800/600 = 1.33 hp/kg F1 is on top, even if the F1 weighed 700kg's which it doesnt, it would still be on top.