mokompri

thanks

btw forget the 1.6mm head gasket, you will lose compression and hence response. keep stock thickness

sweet... any chance of someone posting them up ?

what happened to all the pics in this thread !

absolutely incorrect. the GTRS has nowhere near the same response as a gt2530, there are plenty of dyno charts that are floating around on the silvia forums to show that it is quite laggier then the 2530. your statement is something everyone was running around claiming when the GTRS first came out, on sr's without cams the turbo wont even make as much power as a 2530 and will be laggier as well for a 2L i recommend the 2530, for 2.5rb 2530 is good. you will only get 10-20rwkw more with the 2535 over the 2530 in top end, but you sacrifice down low, and for an already laggy rb20, i would rather response then 10rwkw extra up top

i have finished, installed and mildly tuned the IEBC on my sr20det s13 with great results ! all my info is in the below link IEBC

SR20DET with GT2530, 230-240rwkw (~350hp at engine) with *awesome* response easy good to see you went the right way and got the sr20 heh.. if your adventurous and have the money, which it seems you do, you can get the TOMEI SR stroker kit and stroke it to 2.4L - then run a GT2835 for even more power with around the same response as the first setup with the GT2530 edit: for more info, head off onto one of the silvia forums, besides ns.com

arent you in japan though ? jap fuel/octane ? most of the guys here in aus struggle to get 240rwkw out of a GTRS on an sr20, general consensus is that the turbine is too small and gets choked up in the high rpm's. without cams, an sr20 will struggle to pull 220rwkw from the various dyno results ive seen also it seems that rb20's lack the same down low an sr20 has, so the GTRS would be even laggier, if you guys consider a 2530 laggy on an rb20...

yeah thats exactly what i was saying, having exhaust gasses pushing it means there is load behind the turbine wheels, but in this instance the car is off and it keeps spinning because the inertia of the rotating parts is enough to overcome the friction of the bearings. of course the friction will slowly turn the inertia into heat and transfer the energy to the oil and bearings over the period that it keeps spinning after the car is off, once that energy is expended it will stop spinning as its converted all its energy into heat. now if there was enough energy it can be argued that it will cause damage as there is no longer a proper oil supply, but its not really its a very negligible amount of energy when the engine is off.

i dont think it will cause any longevity issues having a turbo spin down without any load behind it... its akin to shutting off the car, then spinning the blades with your hand for a minute

buy some toulene and add about 1 part toulene for 10 parts petrol i dont trust the additives in octane boosters, ive seen spark plugs fouling and o2 sensors being coated in crap stopping them from working

well after an exhausting 20 pages, i have read the whole thread, very nice info indeed.. im going to purchase the IEBC and give the thing a go on my sr20det one thing i have to add, is that i noticed you guys are running a sort of 'bleed' to overcome the issue with the trapped air between the solenoid and the wastegate. this is the same issue that JE came across when he made his audi pneumatic boost controller with the pressure regulator and pressure relief valve, and the solution was a one way valve going from the regulator (in this case solenoid) to wastegate line, feeding back to the pre relief valve (in this case solenoid) boost/vacuum line. when you pull off the throttle and the pressure differential reaches above the cracking pressure of the one way valve, it will dump the pressurised air trapped in that hose back into the intake. this will save the hassle of finding the right size hole that bleeds just the right amount, stops any air from being vented to atmosphere, and i would say should making tuning of the IEBC somewhat easier and more predictable because there is no air being bled out of the system. heres a diagram of how it should be hooked up: when your on boost, the pressure pre solenoid will be greater then or equal to post solenoid, so therefore the one way valve will stay shut at this point, and allow the solenoid to function normally.

port length and diameter are very important for reverb the sub gives, this should be given by the program your using to calculate box volume with, i personally use WSID, its quite good and lets you model the gains in different frequencies quite easily, also gives port length and diameter needed

Coil ID = 90/88 mm Wire OD = 13 mm # of Coils = 7.2 turns thanks

dot 5 fluid is silicon based, and i DONT recommend it... i dont know if people are meaning to say dot 5.1 or not, but you either want dot 4 or dot 5.1 brake fluid there was a thread about these different types not too long ago..

not quite, say you take down the boost pressure, or change the boost controller arrangement ie wastegate creep control, then on a map based car it will need a retune whereas on an afm based engine, it measures mass of air directly with the afm and thus knows if boost has been changed etc.. of course any big changes and you will need a retune on a afm based car as well.. but the big point is afms will give a better tune then map sensors, as they are more accurate in measuring the air coming in, i agree with what pnblight has said, stick with either twin z32's or rb25 afms

i recommend you stick with the afm and ditch the map sensor idea... its a much more accurate way of measuring the mass of air coming in. drive-ability will suffer if you switch to a map sensor - and you will need a retune for any changes to the engine if your running a map sensor

a larger turbo wont necessarily cause the cat to die earlier... the main things that will affect its life is exhaust gas temperature (EGT's) and a/f ratios

mmm 190rwkw for 1.2 bar on a gt2530 is very low... whats the average power of each ? when did each make peak power ?

yeah was about to say 22psi @ 2500rpm is the stuff of dreams..

i think you will find the reason why the sr20 starts choking up top is a limitation of its camshafts, something easily fixed... as for the iron block being stronger then the alloy for more boost, this is a bit of a useless advantage imo, for most people the strength of the sr block is not going to be a problem... not unless your into straight line drag only with mega power, and if so, i wouldnt bother with either engine .... in which case the weight saving of the alloy block would be the better advantage to have imo also the statement of more cylinders make more power is a real blank one. F1 cars are n/a, with forced induction its a whole different story... more cylinders doesnt necessarily mean more power, especially on turbo'd cars show me graphs of an rb20 and an sr20 with the same turbo, this will be a good comparison... not based on whether 6 cylinders is better then 4, but rather a direct engine to engine comparison

the tradeoff of more castor is afaik, a less repsonsive strut... but it favours more castor in terms of tradeoff's, ie you lose a little but gain alot

yeap hes correct, the castor rod goes from the lower control arm to its mount further forward, shortening it will move the wheel forward for more castor

undo'ing one of the links will take the sway bar out of the equation as it effectively means its just hanging off one side and not under any tension i have the same problem as you, caused from the same thing (gutter), and unfortunately i know what the problem is.... bent chassis rail anyone know how much it would cost to get it straightened out if i remove all the necessary parts for a panel beater to get to the rail ?! sorry bit off topic..

this is about the same power alot of people are making with the GT-RS on sr20det's, although with cams... they dont seem to flow much more then 250rwkw, if thats the power output your after, then the turbo is perfect for responce/power if you go for some radical duration on your cams you may see more power... the turbines on these turbos are relatively small which does choke them up top when pushed