mokompri

i suggest you forget about the rb20det, and look into an sr20det with a HKS GT-RS turbo... with the right cams this combo will give you the power output your looking for. of course your going to need all the other support hardware too though

i wouldnt recommend silicon fluid, its not hydroscopic, which isnt necessarily a good thing... if any moisture gets in the lines (and it will), it will just 'pool' together and could cause corrosion to occur, instead of being absorbed by the brake fluid. edit: dot 5 fluid is also slightly compressible, because it absorbs air very easily, and causes a spongy pedal, this was especially experienced during track use when it was tested, because of the high temps there fluids reach.. i dont think there are any race teams using silicone fluid imo just get some dot 5.1 fluid and it will do the job fine, best of the bunch

the sheer number of people that are defected by this guy is amazing... he apparently trolls through some car forums as well best to stay away from him and his 'area', hes a real nazi from what it seems.. i would say its probably become a personal agenda for him

didnt think they had it.. been looking for one with a low cracking pressure for ages, cheers for heads up

willing to seperate check valve ? and by check valve im assuming one-way valve ?

like SK im using the autospeed boost controller... its great, it holds boost perfectly and is quite adjustable, although the suppliers didnt have a well matching spring, which makes tuning of the thing a real pain and time consuming, but hopefully ill be able to get a spring from a third party company for the job... the problem with the electronic boost controllers is that they run solenoids, which have an on/off state, thats the reason why you have spiking problems etc... with the bleed valves or industrial valves, the air thats bled out occurs in an analogue/linear way, whereas with solenoids they cycle on/off very rapidly as they vent air in an attempt to bleed out the correct amount, with some sort of feedback system it tries to determine with the current boost pressure and its preset boost pressure, how many more cycles should be done to bleed out enough air to match the current and preset boost pressures.. problem with this ive found through peoples dyno charts is that the cycling speeds arent always high enough for accuracy or to hold boost properly, and cause really aweful spiking/dipping, as it keeps bleeding and self correcting, but never sits stable and dances around the preset boost pressure, i'll post a dyno chart later that shows this effect... ive found though, the best thing to hold boost, is the wastegate spring, it has the best feedback/correction system, far superior to that of a solenoid, and a tad better then an industrial regulator... it holds the preset 7psi beautifully and the needle on the boost gauge doesnt twitch... my new setup will consist of simply a HKS adjustable wastegate actuator and the pressure relief valve from the autospeed norgren setup, basically im replacing the regulators job, with an adjustable actuator. the actuator will determine the max boost setting, and the relief valve will determine the amount of boost creep that i want edit: here is dyno graph showing the effect of the cycling solenoid on the boost pressure, although its exagerated, i think this setup was having issues..

how about as suggested a s13 ca18de or sr20de as a first car ... its cheap and its alot safer to start on then say a turbo car... the beauty of this option is that once you have mastered driving a bit better, you can swap in an ca18det or sr20det without too much trouble, and you have yourself a turbo car

can someone give me a bit of an idea as to the difference between these KAI ones and the normal ones ?

twin plate = more surface area = less clamping load required for equal amount of torque it can handle compared to a single plate which will require more clamping load to make up for its smaller surface area in short for same torque handling capabilities, the twin plate wont be so 'on - off' compared to an equally rated single plate

anyone know a place that has good prices on nismo 1.5 way lsd's ?

if anyone wants a set of 4, 480cc s15 injectors, look below http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...showtopic=67297

haha i knew those plates were familiar... Nismo_Boy, sounds like an animal, could you scan article and post up

fullboost on silviansw.com runs a t04 on a rb20, its a pretty laggy mofo looking at this chart

the GT-RS can handle 250rwkw quite easily

out of interest and curiosity, does anyone know the actual manufacturing process involved in making carbon fibre products ?

actually yellow ones are also nismo .. and nismo are the only ones that make 555cc injectors afaik, but they are def. nismo ones HYBRID VL, well it depends on your fueling needs really, if the GTR 444cc injectors are large enough then go for it... if you want more headroom or just plain need it, then yes s15 red coloured injectors are good, although the problem you have here is that people sell them in sets of 4 cause SR's are 4 cyl's although i did see someone selling JUST 2 S15 480cc injectors on ns.com for dirt cheap, and then you would have to source another set of 4.. dont know if they are still there... or your other option is to get 3 sets of injectors with 1 other person, 3x4=12, then you split them between 2 people = 6 each

i believe the nismo GT's are adjustable where as the others arent.. although dont quote me :headspin: btw thats a damn good price, how much can he get a 1.5 nismo LSD for ?

in short for SR's, no... if you want the best, either go for CES or Trust dump for SR's imo. the HKS split dump doesnt merge the wastegate and turbine gasses very well, they come in at too much of an angle causing turbulance. the Trust dump is the *ONLY* dump pipe which merges the gasses *parallel* to each other, on the outside it looks like a large single mouth design, but on the inside it has internal walls which split the gasses till further down. all "copies" of the trust dump look the same (kinda) on the outside, like a large single mouth dump, but dont have the internal spliting. the CES is self explanatory, it splits the gasses until much further down, eliminating much of the problem the HKS has with early merging and tight angle of entry... my pick, would be the trust over the CES, because of cost factor, i find the CES prices to be ridicoulous especially considering how many problems they had with cracking...

im pertty sure there made on a custom basis, so it needs to be modelled in 3d first then they can create them ive got access to the full article and the results are quite good.. a group buy could only justify a purchase imo, because it starts from scratch it will probably be pricey... and another thing because it spaces out the manifold from the block, your going to need some movement/free-play in your cooler piping to accomodate the manifolds new position

yeah there both side feed, purple top sr20's injectors are 370cc injectors, s15 red top injectors are 480cc a certain knowledgable person claims single pintle injectors are the only ones hes seen to have issues, ie sard.. and recommended to go for 4 pintle ones, ie nismo logically thinking i would assume the 4 pintle ones would have better spray and atomisation over a larger single pintle injector

im pretty sure you wont see much of a power difference by having the equivalent turbo in external gate configuration over internal... its just another way of bypassing exhaust gasses to control the speed of the compressor wheel, or boost in other words only difference being that one bypasses it in the exhaust housing of the turbo, where as the other bypasses the gasses out of the manifold before it reaches the turbine, the power difference could only result from how the exhaust gasses are handled in the bypassing process.. whether its more efficient for gasses to bypass through the turbine housing or through an external wastegate is the question, and will of course depend alot i think on how the external wastegate pipe is integrated into the exh. manifold

also something to consider, its commonly known that the greddy manifold for sr20det's gives SFA difference to the stock ones for 99% of cars out there... so what im saying is, and this is my opinion, that the stock ones are damn good at what they do, which doesnt leave much room for the aftermarket to improve on... not until airflow figures go waay past the stock parameters they were first designed for anyways

i think this is debatable... since you havent got any data to back this up, i'll refer to what others have already bought up.. the rb20 article in zoom that compared the long runner inlet manifold to the short runner gtr manifold. the graph clearly showed that the short runner manifold had more power down low but lost it up top, where as the long runner manifold was the exact opposite.. in fact from what i remember approx half way through the rev range the graphs crossed, at rpms over that crossover the long runner manifold was up in power and below that crossover the short runner manifold was clearly ahead in power

no they will sound different, although its so loud you might not be able to tell the difference... but generally speaking the RB will sound very different, a 6 cylinder car will always sound very different to a 4 cylinder one

longer duration cams will bring boost on LATER... imo the 3037e is a bit too large for street use on a 2L engine they have enough flow for around 320rwkw on 2L SR's, so you imagine its going to be a bit laggy i cant understand why you would WANT some lag though, sure you dont want to be boosting at low speed traffic driving, but you can control that with your right foot !