mokompri

yes any car with a turbo can ! :headspin:

i cant see how tyre pressure would not affect grip, as it affects the contact patch greatly, where is that text quoted from ? if your worried about the increase in weight of wheels, then you can lighten your flywheel, therefore decreasing the overall rotating mass the engine is spinning, although theres quite a bit of maths to find exactly how much to take off to offset the effect of the extra weight from the wheels although another problem with heavier wheels is the increase in unsprung mass, which theres not much you can do about really

here you are, specs ! .. stolen from roy's post R32 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 280×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R33 GTST Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 23.8 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,) Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4 Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18 R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9 Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons larger then trailing Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30 Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2 Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22 v-spec has biggest one that seems to be ~1-1/16" size by the way how does yours feel now with the 15/16" master cylinder ?

someone posted up the specs on all the skyline brakes, one of them did actually have a 1" master cylinder im running the same setup as you are on my 180sx, i have the 15/16" master cylinder, its ok, although still is a bit spongy, i have stainless brake lines as well...

rising rate regulator... theres the reason for the power achieved with stock injectors so whats the highest the fuel rail pressure reaches ?

care to share the base fuel pressure and duty cycle on the injectors ?

yes you will need to change the settings on your safc to get proper afr's

people with sr20det silvias can sometimes squeeze out ~210rwkw with cams and such with these T28's, its what the silvia community consider to be a step down from HKS GT2530's, which most find to give them around ~230rwkw IMO it wouldnt go too badly with with an rb26dett, you wont make as much as twin gt2530's, but you will probably have better down low and mid range... also cost factor, as these turbos can be had for around $1200 new and going for as low as $700 for good condition second hand one, it makes it a good option though they run a T25 flange, so custom manifold is needed

theres no way you will be able to run a 10K rpm limiter on stock internals regardless of the tune or whether its turbo or non turbo the rods will no doubt snap and mangle themselves, and probably shoot through the block tensile loads increase exponentially with rpm, so keep that in mind when going over stock limiter

here is some info on fuels, particularly the 2 posts by "chris", in page 1 and page 2 of the below link http://www.silviansw.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10568

thanks for the pics Adzmax, the car seems to be an animal.. how much is it putting out ? i assume racespace is his workshop, lucky man!

haha touche...

i agree with roys theory, the problem with reality and theory is that you can never take all the variables in reality and put them into theory you would have to have a very well controlled test to be able to see the theory in action to put roys theory to test, you should be using 2 gtr's or 2 gts's, not one of each im curious about this 'ben' persons car, any one have info or know where i can have a geez at it by the way, sr20det will own all your whales lol jk

not completely correct... the lighter the wheel the better the acceleration, top speed is determined by rpm and all the gearing that occurs ie gearbox, diff and the rolling diameter of the wheels and so in this case, if you get 17" with higher profile, and 18" lower profile, you can achieve same rolling diameter and therefore same top speed, and if they are identical wheels then obviously the 17" will be lighter, less rotating mass = better acceleration

they usually run a mixture of toulene, acetone and avgas, you could say its rocket fuel... it makes ALOT of difference to the output of the car, much more boost and timing can be fed into the engine without detonation coming on, and thats how they make there power they do it with most of there dyno runs, marketing i would assume, as not many people know what fuel they run and all they see is there power figure they made 293rwkw on an sr20det silvia with a single T517Z, fuel ratio was as below: avgas:toulene:acetone -----> 6:3:2

very nice, i remember seeing your car in the teletech carpark aaaages ago

apathy like this is whats given them so much power to begin with, if thats your attitude i say keep it to yourself and let others speak out loud against issues like this, and kudos to those who want to make a difference by organising something i suggest you post all locations on a pm basis

is it just me or do the pics not work anymore ? i click on link and it just comes up blank screen saying done

haha smart ass

nah that wont work, that fan will never be able to supple the amount of air an engine (especially forced induction) swallows... in fact it will probably pose a restriction as the filter will try to suck more air through the fan blades then what the blades are able to supple, so in another words it will be powering the fan it self it does seem to get women digging gardens though, not sure about the video games part but

stops fuel starvation occuring during hard cornering and acceleration there is no advantage in having a larger or smaller one, you just need to make sure the low pressure pump feeding the surge tank outflows the high pressure pump feeding the injectors, so that in effect there is always fuel in the surge tank 500ml-1L will be fine

it will work great on a stock cooler, as its more affected by heat soak then a front mount would be, so if your not planning on a FMIC anytime soon, its a worthwhile upgrade, which you can later re-adjust to suit a FMIC if you decide to get one by the way, if the water your using is at room temp, then by the law of physics its impossible to get lower then ambient temps ... what were the actual figures ?

this is the same stuff i used for sound proofing, and works a charm

have a look at how much room you have right now with current rims for example say you have 20mm space from tyre to arch, and rims have 30mm offset you can get rims 40mm wider then what you have with the same offset if new rims had 20mm offset, then you can get 50mm wider rims, and so on hopefully that made sence

its all in the offset