msports180

Will swap for cash. More looking at a cash sale now instead of trades. Have most the stock parts, can remove bits to reduce price.

Bump

bump

6 months rego paid today. And also has 2 new Nissan Tie rod ends and a new battery.

So Im contemplating selling the 34 as i just dont use it much and might put the money into something else. Have owned this car for over 5year's, were the 1st Australian owners, bought it from Autoworx in wanagara. Was the mrs car for 4 1/2 years, i got it mid last year and did all the mods. Has done approx 500-600km's since ive done them all. Has realativley high kays but the mrs did a lot of perth trips etc, has allways been serviced regularly as it needed to be reliable being the family car with the 2 kids, never let us down been a great car. Has never been boosted. Anyway more spec's: 1998 Model 168,xxxk's Manual now but was auto, converted using R33 gear for the cheaper cost of clutchs Metalic black Full Nismo lip kit Origin Style lip spoiler 18x9.5 + 15 JIC mags 235/40 tyres all round with decent tread left HKS coilovers (near new from JPC) HKS twin plate (used but heaps of meat left) ISC castor rods (new) ISC hicas cancellor (new) ISC rear camber arms (~ 3000km's, had em in my stagea) Cazman traction rods (new) Cusco front upper camber arms (currently not in the car and used) K&N Panel filter URAS extra lock spacers Alarm with central locking and inbuilt turbo timer Splitfires Diff is shimmed and basically locked Full 3inch exhaust All new fluids and filters, oil, fuel, g/box, coolant, plugs, diff etc Comes with Nistune board not fitted Comes with a walboro pump not fitted Comes with some random spares I did all the suspension first and was going to do power mods later but never got there. The back end has been fully aligned and the car grips really well. Very sad to see this thing go as it has an awesome tough stance, but i just dont use it often enough. Now the car wont be ready for a while as it needs some paint work as it was keyed on the drivers side and i was going to get the holes welded up and the whole thing buffed before sale, if someone wanted to get this done themselves then the price will reflect this. Chasing $18,000ono may consider trades for something i can track, but would want at least 10k my way. 0419943997

I have done a manual conversion on my R34 using R33 parts etc. I have a R34 speedo sensor, but im not sure its the right one. Can anyone tell me the wire colours on the R34 speedo sensor and then on the loom on the car that i need to connect them to, as the plug has been damaged getting the auto out. Thanks!

Why cant you bring it with you? Im pretty sure with the rules in WA if you have owned the car for more then year then when you move here you can just go and get WA numberplates for it and rego'd it here. So doesnt need to be inspected etc. If this was licensed in WA would sell quick over for sure.

Drift works in England make a HICAS cancellor bar that also comes with bushes to replace the ball joints, ends up working like a non hicas rear end.

Some mates took a punt and ordered one of the external gate GT35r style turbo's from the states. On the stock manifold with the gate plumbed in between the mani and turbs on a adaptor the gate opens at 3700rpm. Made 320 @ 14psi with a real quick shitty tune. How long it lasts for is anyone's guess...

TBH i doubt it. We had the baby seat in ours and because there so wide putting one in the middle just wont work, they will be leaning to the side to fit. There wide on the outside but tiny inside. My old stagea was the exact some measurements outside as our new Passat, yet the Passat we can fit 3 adults comfortably across the back seat, not so much the Stagea.

Being on the front just try and get hubcentric one's to avoid wheel wobble. Slip on's are fine with longer wheel studs, bolt on's just get good quality one's.

Targa's even more boring strict.

bump

My R34 sedan with the SR20 in it was the best handling car i have driven, way better then my RB25 4 door i have now, and a friend had a Ceffie a few years ago with an SR20 and it also was awesome, better then most S13's. There is no reason why they would not be good on the track, good chassis, good suspension design and still pretty light weight. If you plan on doing improved production or Targa type events im pretty sure you need the stock engine, so would need to be RB20, even just speed events and 1/2 dy events like duttons will be fun, and any mods are allowed, just changes the class you go in.

Cleaning out the spare room, found this. Original Jap owners manual and service manual/guide time thingy. In the glovebox sleeve thingy. Very good description i know, dunno what else to call it. Send me $20 i'll send you it. 0419943997 also have some stagea stereo brackets for $20

TTT.

My head hurts from reading that dude.

Yeah fun ended once we got our first house and got joint bank accounts

Awesome shot and awesome car. And adding to what you were talking about before in the thread about buying the GF something to even it out when u spend money on the car, i got 5 years before she figured it out

Mess with the kids heads, dont put anything in there.

Back up for Auction Oct 28th, im not working so going to watch the auction online at home.

Fark yeah tuff as!

So its driving, and its awesome. Diff is tight as fark, has so much grip its awesome. Have wound some camber out the rear but now the rims stick out to far for my liking, so there going.

Bump.

You will need to roll the front and rear guards, this shouldnt be more then $50 a corner by a shop. You will need to lower the car to fit them, and it would be best to get camber adjustment for the back at least. But yes do it the jap way, buy the rims, then make the car fit around them, they will look porn.