msports180

I think this post has been competely taken out of context?

Yeah mine has it to. Allthough when we replaced the windscreen just put a standard one in there. Couldnt justify the price difference for the amount of time im likely to use it. Didnt know it did the mirrors though, might have to try it.

Took the Autech 2 perth last week, did 460kms to a full tank. Exactly the same as before it was tuned .

The R34 box is different to the stagea one isnt it? unless ur stagea is RWD?

Took some quick photo's today. Sorry for the car being filthy havnt had time to wash it yet. When i finish work next wednesday i'll wash it and get some better pic's.

Seen a dark red stagea on the freeway north in perth yesterday. Looked stock with a extra roof rack on top. And on the way up yesterday saw 3 mitsubishi legnums. One black one in mandurah with time attack type rims, then another black one follwed me from mandurah to freeway turnouff. The got followed by a white one going south on the freeway near leach hwy. Bloody legumes everywhere.

Forgot to put in that all the engine work was done by Gavin Wood Autotech on the Goldcoast. I have a reciept for the work. And have receipts for most of the other parts etc. Not interested in swaps unless you have a Jeep Unlimited Rubicon or a newish 4x4 dual cab.

Ive been thinking about doing this for a while. As much as i love this car it didnt turn out to be big enough and meet our needs. I have found a new car i want so i am selling this now. If it dosnt sell here then i will trade it in, but i would rather sell it to someone who will appreciate it. I have to say now this is not technically a "genuine" 1999 series 2 Autech 260RS. I baught a genuine one in Nov 07 and had the motor rebuilt etc etc. The car ended up failing complience due to some rust and it taking longer then 12months to get to the complience place due to a dodgy panel beater taking 7+ MONTHS to do a weeks work on the car. Please give me a ring regarding this so i can explain it more. We got the car back and then baught another stagea with a blown motor and swapped EVERYTHING over. So the only non "genuine" autech bit is the actual shell. The car is licensed with RB26 etc. All the mods and parts have travelled less then 5000km's. The vehicle's details are: 97 stagea shell RB26DETT Arias pistons Eagle rods ACL race series bearings Fully balanced everything (crank, rods, flywheel, clutch etc) Crank work (crack tested linished etc) Block work (acid dipped, decked, crack tested) N1 pumps Tomie oil restrictor Tomei sump baffel Trust MHG Trust 264deg cam's All new genuine gaskets through out New timing gear throughout Head fully recon'd (lifters set for cams, guides etc) New engine mounts, Gbox mounts etc Platinum plugs 2 x Garret GT2860-7's Apexi PFC Turbotech bleed valve HKS pods HKS tuned length front pipe HKS catback Stock dumps and GTR cat New belts Cleaned stock injectors Walbro in tank 600hp pump (not fitted but supplied) Driveline: New excedy cerametalic single plate clutch (rated to 330rwkw) All 260RS driveline: mech diff, autech cradle etc All new oils etc Brakes: New Master cylinder Factory Autech 260RS brembo's New Project Mu B spec pads New rotors all round New brake fluid Suspension: Nismo struts Front Cusco castor arms Rear camber arms (not fitted but supplied) Hicas breaker bar Exterior: All factory Autech 260RS bodykit Factory Autech rims with new Kuhmo ecsta sport KU31's Fully tinted new windscreen Factory HID's Interior: Full autech interior Trust turbo timer Clarion CD player (dosnt work that well) Alarm and central locking Air con just regassed with new reciever drier factory privacy blind and net Car made 304ahwhp @ a little under 10psi. Limited by the stock fuel pump (hence the new walbro). Car was tuned at X-speed. They said with the combo on the car with the new pump, EBC and bigger injector you should see 450-460awhp @ 20psi ish, safley reliably, easily and responsively. OK the bad points about the car: Needs a new engine fan ( i have another 2nd hand one to go on that isnt cracked) Radiator needs a clean out (got hot on the dyno but dosnt get hot now driving normally) Needs new sway bar link bushes front and rear Needs new castor rods bushes or just fit adjustable castor rods I will sell the car with ALL the spare parts i have left over (except the busted RB25). PLease check this thread to see what there is, nearly 3k's worth of parts. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ts-t258504.html I am asking $35000ono as is with all the spare parts. Im located in Bunbury WA 0419943997 The engine work and all the new parts cost me well over $20k. And like i said its all done less the 5000km's so barely run in. I just dont have the funds to finish it (building a new house) and like i said its not really big enough for us (we have 2 kids and a dog). I will get some pics up as soon as it stops raining.

Nope wont be my last car. As i have found something else and my 260RS is now for sale . Awesome car dont get me wrong, but after the mission i have with mine anyone could understand how the whole stagea thing has been a bit tainted for me. Really is the ultimate family car IMO. I just want something i can enjoy with the family now (a 4wd i can take OFFroad) and also will be setting the R34 up soon as a toy. Its been short but fun.

I thaught id start a new thread as i couldnt edit the other one and so people dont have to go through 4 pages. This is all thats left. If someone wanted to buy the whole lot and sell it off themselves make me an offer i want it gone!! All prices listed are for pickup from bunbury WA. I will post at buyers expense, all prices are also negotiable!! Auto Gearbox and transfer case from RS4 173k's $150 (sorry no pic yet) Engine from stagea RB25, complete minus, AFM, INJ's, ALT, needs rebuild with new pistons and head machining $700 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...16122008001.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/24122008.jpg Windscreen wiper arms $20 each (no pics u n know what they look like) All doors $100 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04121.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04122.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04124.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04123.jpg Tail gate $150 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04125.jpg Centre vent above stereo $50 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04096.jpg LH+RH vent from dash $20 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04096.jpg Indicator stalk from RS4 auto $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04099.jpg Interior lights $20 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04100.jpg Stereo brackets $20 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04100.jpg Mirror's $50 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04101.jpg Rear view mirror $15 no pic needed Factory strut brace $40 sorry no pic Brake booster and master cylinder $120 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04102.jpg ABS module $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04102.jpg Heater fan $50 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04103.jpg A/C evaporator $50 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04104.jpg Heater core $50 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04105.jpg Pwr Steer res $20 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04106.jpg Windscreen wiper motor $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04106.jpg Tail lights (pass side has small crack) $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04107.jpg Side trim peice behind rear doors and rear 1/4 windows $30 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04108.jpg Factory guage console RS4 auto 183k's $80 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04109.jpg Intake pipe $30 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04110.jpg Bonnet struts $40 pr http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04111.jpg Hatch struts $60pr http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04111.jpg Side skirts $200 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04113.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04114.jpg Rear reo $30 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04115.jpg Rear seat (needs a clean dusty) $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04116.jpg Stock brakes (rotors need to be rubbed back) $100 for everything http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04117.jpg Grille $30 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04118.jpg Stock thermo fan (pulled apart but works fine) $50 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04118.jpg All door seals $40 each http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04119.jpg Handbrake cable's $70pr http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04119.jpg Factory mud flaps $40pr http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04119.jpg Rear bumpper $70 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04120.jpg Aircon control $80 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04097.jpg Window switchs for passenger doors $20 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04097.jpg Window switch for driver side $100 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04097.jpg Non stagea parts: stock R33 GTR turbo's no actuators $300 http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC04112.jpg Stock R34 GT-T auto Gearbox 73k's shifted fine $150 sorry no pic yet I am located in bunbury WA 0419943997 i work a shift roster so if i dont answer leave a msg or text me.

I have started a new thread will an updated list and pics. Please veiw that one. Thanks, Neil. Mods can you delete this one?

Sure do. PM me if your still keen.

Took my car to a mechanic i trust the other day for some help fixing the high idle issue. As it has a bitch of a clutch much revving was needed to get it onto the hoist. This drew around 4 more people over to the car asking WTF is that? How can a volvo sound like that? Trying to explain to the bogans what it is was so funny. Yes its fast, yes its a wagon, yes it has the motor and driveline in you wanted banned when it kept beating you. 8000rpm down the road for a test quickly shut them up.

Stock Autech Rims are 17x7 + 30 front 17x7 + 20 rear. There damn light to. On an RS4 the fronts would sit pretty similar to how they do on an autech, the back however would be close to the guard lips as the auetch cradle is around 40mm narrower track then an RS4 cradle.

Thats some scary shit.

Got mine tuned yesterday. Couldnt push the it to hard as unfortunatley the stock fuel pump isnt playing the game and running out of puff allready, just old age i think. Autech 260RS stagea Arias Pistons Eagle Rods Trust 264 deg cams MHG Balanced throughout N1 pumps Tomie oil restrictor and sump baffel stock cam gears stock dumps 2860-7's HKS front pipe and catback Stock fuel system Stock FMIC HKS magic mushrooms PFC Stock AFM's Turbo Tech bleed valve 304AWHP @ a bit under 10psi car is very responsive. Need to get a new pump and go for another tune, then start saving for injectors (damn yen)

Ahh shit man, stagea's in hole must be cursed!! LOL Some keep crashing, lots of gearbox faults, misfire's, and mine everything Yeah the newer car is looking beter and beter. My missus R34 sedan just ran out of warranty so im waiting for something to go wrong on that!! Yeah dale i work at worsley. The car only over heats every now and then, its not consistent which is weird, maybe a sticky thermostat. Yeah its a bitch of a HILL, now for a day light savings whinge... if we didnt have it we wouldnt be driving up the hill through the heat for night shift Meh im over trying to fix it myself i'll just pay someone.

Yeah it is a daily so i need it reliable. Ive been trying to fix this high idle problem for a while. We rebuilt the AAC valve, checked every hose clamp i could see, checked what vacuum hoses i could see, checked that the throttle bodys were closing etc. I agree you do get a sense of satisfaction when you manage to fix a problem, i was stoked when i fixed the ATTESSA. It went in today for the tune at Xspeed. Had a OK result, Did 304AWHP @ a bit under 10psi. Fuel pump is rooted... Normally stock fuel system can support 350AWHP but mine was running 95% duty cycle @ 300AWHP pump is probly just old and worn out. And the high idle has been narrowed down by them to be a vacuum leak, so because of this the base timing is out. So basically i need to get a new fuel pump and fix the leak and get it retuned. Im gonna book it in 2 a local mechanic that i know pretty well and get them to fix the vaccum leak as i CBF. The tune is awesome though, car feels so responsive and at least i can now rev it. So had a good and bad day. Got reasonable economy to considering did 400km's including the tune and only used 3/4 of a tank.

Thanks for listening guys. Well i fixed the fan today, only had to remove the front bumper and passenger side inside high beam light and fan came out, hasnt gone through the core of the condensor so lucky. The nut came off!! The thread was pucked, so re did the thread and put a new nut on, and put locktite on the shaft and bolt. Fingers crossed. Still cant fix the idle... Ryan1600, we flushed the whole cooling system when we did the swap, i put tectaloy gold in there. ALOT of shit came out of the rad. Im thinking the rad core is probly blocked maybe? Got the one in the missus R34 done a while back as it was getting hot, was 70% blocked!! So if it still gets hot thats next. When the motor was rebuilt the mechanics put it on the dyno, it ran super lean, by 6000rpm was 14.4 to 1. And around the 3500-4000mark when its coming onto boost it was 13.5 to 1 ish. Id say the timing is a bit retarded to, making it run a bit hotter. I have found a nice 4wd i like looking at it after the tune on monday... RBPOWA that sucks man!! Sshhh we'll stop talking about it now, Might go away.

*start rant* So i have been slowly working through all the many problems i have had with my car since the swap, once it was done i lost all motivation to do anything to it. I have had a heap of other shit going on whilst this was happening to, like selling my house, signing up to build another, finding a block, finding a rental then moving also bein swapped around shift crews at work. Anyway... I fixed the electrical problems with the car but it still seems to be overheating (i think). Im starting to think it has something to do with the tune (it runs REALLY lean around the 4-5krpm range where it sits on the way up the hill to work). Still idles at 1500rpm though due to a air leak somewhere i think? ( have removed and cleanned AAC valve) Got the Aircon regassed the other day so finnally had A/C, got new tyres etc, and goes in for a proper tune monday as its now run in. A couple of weeks ago i took i through the car wash at work and as it had been a hot day the sudden heat change casued the windscreen to crack... Only windscreen available is ex QLD still waiting for it to arive... For the first time today we used it as the "family car". Loaded the wife and 2 kids and went for a drive and what happens? The bloody A/C thermo fan decides it wants to seperate from the motor and go into the condensor, its seems to have not damaged it tooo badly. It looks like to get in there i have to pull the whole front end apart... Oh effing yay. So we get to drive home with no A/C and 3 grumpy whinging people making me feel a whole heap better. Put the car up on the hoist the other day just to check everything underneath (havnt checked since the swap) Never took notice before but seems nearly EVERY suspension bush could do with a change... The car has been a pain in the arse from the start, i love the power, the pracitcality, the look and feel, but im getting over it fast. I have no motivation to work on it anymore and to be honest i paid a heap to get the work done it so i didnt have to work on it. Then i had to do the bloody swap in the end anyway!! I am seriousley considering trading it in on a new 4wd. I have taken a liking to the 4 door wranglers... I feel a bit better now.. *end rant*

Would you seperate the hand controller?

Hmm might look at getting one to...

So where did we end up? 33 gtr front and rear with some mods to rear? Or 32 gtr front and 33 gts-t rear? what sway bars? Im interested as well as sus mods are next on my list so i can tear up the wrecks and evo's at the track.

From what i have been told R33 GTR is the go, R32 wont fit.

If you can measure the small and large ends then you can probly match one up at a local auto parts store. I cant comment on the split one's though, never used them.