msports180

Radiator sold.

I'd doubt the 100cc extra from running a 26 crank would make that much of a difference? We run out of time to tune mine more due other issues taking up time, so i think we should get more? Unless the antisurge is really holding them back?

Its a lot of money to make a R34 Gtt engine bay look prettier, and for your power goal its not needed to make it, only the looks will benefit. For the power you want you could have an engine bay that looks completely stock, so no hassles from the Police, money left over to spend on suspension and brakes. I did all the suspension to work on mine first, and with the stock turbo maxed out it was a damn fun car, responsive and handled like a dream.

Hard to tell but looks similar size to mine, i made 380rwhp @ 17psi on 98 with the anti surge front end, although mine is a lot laggier then your's.

Bump. Also a R34 Gtt strut brace, i think it fits?

Have some left over Gtt parts taking up room. Airbox with K&N Panel filter, comes with snorkel etc $115 Strut brace $50 Sedan rear seatbelts all 3 $50 Seadn Cup holders front and rear of the centre console $50 Sedan interior light $20 Sedan rear wiper arm $20 Orange front indicators $20 Flywheel needs machining $30 Cross over pipe minus bov $15 Indicator stalk has some light marks and fading $35 Radiator, has some bent fins, had been rodded out approx 15,000k's ago $25 Located in Bunbury WA. Willing to post at buyers expense. Can send pic's if needed. 0419943997

Would you separate the rails?

Factory strut brace $50.

I had the same, its because you have no speed signal. If there is none it will illuminate the check engine light, only problem with this is the light and it will use more fuel then normal as speed signal is used to cruise AFR control.

R34 Gt-t, 170,000k's old. Unopened engine Kando T67 anti-surge housing Hybrid Performance Manifold Tial 44mm MVR gate Nistune ECU Just Jap intercooler 750cc injectors Z32 in the cooler piping Splitfire's K&N filter on 4" intake 3" Dump and straight through Exhaust with only a single hotdog Walbro Pump on 98 @ 17psi made 380rwhp, had lots of drama's with the Nistune, so hoping for some more after a retune once i have sorted all the issues, will put 20psi into it. Failing on dyno sheet atm.

Bump.

Wouldn't worry about the head gasket and studs unless there is another reason for the head coming off? I have seen the plenums you are talking about, they don't look to bad. Just remember if you have a FFP on a neo you will need a R33 TB or after market, and then if you want to retain your Nistune you will need it to have a Stagea image put into it to remove the TCS. I have the standard plenum with a fabricated cross over pipe, not the prettiest, but i made 380rwhp @ 17psi with it, we ran out of time to push it more, but showed no signs of restricting anything.

I think it comes down to your ultimate power goal and engine bay appearance goal. We all know the appearance is important to most people just as much as power. I have the stock plenum and it looks like arse, but my goal was a punchy reliable 400rwhp. The stock plenum will do this and more with ease. I couldn't see the point spending at least $700+ for a plenum then more for all the fidly bits people dont acount for to only gain appearance gains. If you want engine bay your proud of then id consider Plazmaman, they look nice and are the easiest to bolt up, and from most accounts retain the most response. If your only after say 400rwhp then spend it on something else like suspension or brakes.

I used a Tial 44mm MVR, no spiking what so ever, flat boost curve the whole time. I'll grab some pic's soon, been at work all week, i work 12hr shifts so havnt had a chance. The A/C line's need to be moved towards the strut tower, i just cable tied it away. Heater hoses are clear although i heat wrapped mine and clear's the ABS fine. No clearance problems anywhere.

Wow your a big ZD30 fan hey? The later model CRD's do not have as many problems as the DI's, but still not a performance option in anyway. To get power out a diesel Nissan Engine you need the TD42, then take out your wallet, remove what you think it would cost, then double it. Duramax 6.6 ltr FTW, 500rwhp + 1000nm's of torque and 8-9ltrs per 100k's on 37" tyres in a full weight patrol, yes please.

Must be something with Black 34 4 doors for girls. Mine was my wife's for 5 years, and i was talking to a guy the other day his wife has one to lol. Looking good! Time for some tint and lower it.

Took it for a quick spin yesterday, has some oil leaks from the oil cooler blocks. Pretty laggy, gate doesn't open till over 4k, then just pulls hard to the limiter if ur not quick, the sound so far is cool, I think because it's laggy it won't horn me for a while. When it goes back for more fine tuning we'll see if we can get it on earlier.

No but I can grab some. Because the power steering line loops up on the 34's makes the intake pipe tight and the waste gate port runs pretty close to the a/c lines. Not problems though. Had to chop up a 14mm spanner to get 2 bolts done up to and trim 2 studs, actually easier to bolt on then my mate's 6 boost.

Dont worry, when ive finished a night shift and i drive the 5k's home i could easily run into something then just fall asleep.

Was hoping for 420-430 ish.

Yeah just run out of time, held the poor tuner back late as it was It seems to have, still yet to drive it to gauge response etc.

Seemed to have yeah, it is BS loud when your standing right next to it though on the dyno. I'll take it for a drive this arvo and gauge the response.

Yeah its rather tight, after talking to a few more people about a FFP im really thinking it may be next Yeah afm's just after the intercooler, i was expecting to have hose problems with it blowing off but didnt have one

Yeah, its still a tad messy, was in a rush to finish it, Still gotta neaten it all up.

And if you hear one whistle and then a really obnoxiously loud SR20 he's driving his Silvia then and im in mine.