msports180

Well... Fitted a new (well 2nd hand) turbo today to the stock S1 i got. Fired it up and we still got smoke, so either this ones pucked to or the engine is... Dosnt seem to have blow back, like took the oil cap off and nothing, yet blows smoke on idle and puffs it out when you drive it. Gonna give it a compression test tommorow and then take it for a drive and see if it cleans up, there was alot of oil in the piping when the last turbo went so hoping its just all this coming through. I am so pucking over this.

Mid to late Nov gonna be the best for me to. I have the map route now from work. Not gonna post it up coz there could be people watching if anyone wants it i can send it to them and we can think bout it, just an idea.

Ok i'll get the map route 2moro and see if we can incorporate it in??

I would be up for a cruise in november as october is full of wedding as well for me also doing the engine swap. I know an awesome cruise route down south, takes a while but is sweet. For you perth guys allow a full day. Basically meet here in bunbury at BP australaind (huge carpark and last chance to fill up on BP98) then go to bridgetown via collie, in bridgetown there's a place to stop for those of us with kids, stretch get something to nibble etc (there's a great lolly shop) Then from bridgetown through to Nannup (brockman highway, awesome road bit bumpy and single lane sometimes but worth it, the idiots stay at home for this one). Then Nannup to Balignup, at the end of the road as you come into Balignup there is an awesome tavern with really good food and not bad prices, and a play ground for the kids. Then from Balignup you go back through donnybrook to bunbury or you can go through to Busselton. So basically at nannup everyone makes there own way home. We have done this one before and if you leave early in the morning you make the tavern by lunch. I have the map route at work i will try and get it 2moro. Just an idea.

I will taking bulk pictures for sure. Gonna be a massive job but i have booked holidays from work and so have a few of my mates so we can get it done. Sounds like an entire loom swap is gonna happen.

Some of you may of read my other post with the drama's i have had with my Autech 260RS, well after getting on the piss me with me mates they suggested getting a stock series 1 and swapping it all over. Well i have done that and know im starting the planning process now of how am i going to do this?!! I have a Series 2 Autech 260rs and i want to put it all into the stock series 1 RS4 i have. I have been told that the mechanicals will go straight in, and ive read the posts on the manual conversion, this stuff isnt to hard for me to do as i have access to a hoist and all tools. What worries me is the electric side of things, im hoping the engine looms will interchange? I want to put the series 2 front end on, any problems lay ahead of me there? Will the lights etc be the same wiring? I want to put the series 2 interior in, with the 3 gauges etc will the wiring be there? Or part of the Autech loom? I will swap the seats etc to. Our theory is that they wouldnt of changed to much between the two? mainly just cosmetic? Anyone have any suggestions? Hurdles were gonna face? Thanks Neil

I'll do ya a 2 for 1 deal ken?? knowing my luck if i got yours it would fall of the truck on the way or a meteor would hit it or something completely random. If i could sell everything for enough id get yours in a blink.

OK Went to perth yesterday and picked up a stock series 1 with a blown turbo for 5k, changed the turbo at a mates house (took 3 1/2 hours), drained all the oil out of the piping and FMIC. Started and drove fine apart from desperately needing new plugs. Made all the way home (150k's) and barely gave it any boost as didnt wana break down, it was 930 by the time i left perth. Got to the suburb where i live and two streets away thought id try it on boost, gave it half throttle went ok, turned down my street, did the same and the new 2nd hand turbo i put on went pop! Its disintegrated the turbine wheel!! only running stock boost to!! Dammit! Sooo the cars back in peices again now as i source another turbo and do it again. I will drive it stock for a while whilst my autech is on its way. Then start the conversion soon. Im really starting to think im not supposed to own a stagea... pics of the turbine wheel: http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02170.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02171.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02169.jpg some crappy pics of the new bus (its high coz its on axle stands): http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02176.jpg http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m238/Ms...80/DSC02175.jpg I will be selling all the series 1 stuff i dont need.

yes he does, best to email him.

Thanks for all the interest guys, just an update. I have baught a stock series 1 stagea and were going to swap everything over. Will also be getting a second opinion on the rust when the car gets here and trying to transfer the complience to someone here in WA. So "IF" the rust is repairable and can transfer the complience then i'll do that. If not then i will have some parts from both the Series 1 and my Autech for sale. So once the car gets here in 2 weeks and i can asses everything i will post up more info.

Thanks for the help man. I was told by the compliance agent that you have to get the vehicle complied where the import approval was done? Im not sure if they have sent the paperwork off yet. Problem is this has consumed so much of my time and money even if i could get permision to get it complied in WA I dont have the money now to get it done. And in all honesty i have lost all interest in this car now. And then for all i know the rust might be that bad it cant be fixed. The car leaves queensland wednesday on its way to me.

I havnt seen the rust so im not 100% sure. Apparently from the complience guys it just starting to get into the rails. I will know when i get it here i guess. There main concern was more if we couldnt remove the rust completely it would keep rusting underneath the paint underbody sealer etc and just get unsafe in the event of an accident. I guess the rust just got worse in the 10months from when i baught it to the time it finnally got there... ive seen brand new falcons rust through the sils from sitting on car yards. Unfortuantly atm im in the stage where i need to take someones word for it. The contact i had in QLD helping with the car is away for a while atm so i cant get him to go have a look.

Nah its ok mate i know what you mean. The reason i can get him for something i cant really post up here. I had the car checked out b4 buying and i definatly put some thaught into it. The rust i was told was minor, i was told this from the panel beater, they obviously have a diffrent perspective to minor.

I will be getting the car sent to me next week, takes 14days approx to get to me so say mid october. I will asses what everything is like and go from there. At this stage i would rather sell as a roller as i dont have any where to store the car whilst i strip it, but i will see how i go. I have had people pm me with interest in the following so far: Coilovers Pedals/handbrake bodykit as well as the replys above. once i figure out what im doing i will get some prices out and 1st in 1st served. Thanks Guys.

Unfortunatly that is the only resolution there willing to take, i can understand why even though it pains me so much. I spoke to the Office of Fair trading today, there going to chat to the panel beater, may be able to make a small claims action against them? And i have an appointment with a lawyer next wednesday to see if i can take personal action against the guy i baught the car from. So i will know what im goning to do by wednesday next week. But most probably part it out as i need wheels NOW.

Yeah the words im thinking out really the type you want to write here. And u dont want to know what im thinking. We spoke about fixing the rust but there were some reasons that we didnt want to, one being because it took over 12months they were looking at the car through a microscope.

Well my Autech failed compliance due to some under body rust. So i will be getting it sent to me in Perth and i will be parting it out. This is mainly an EOI atm. I don't really want to, or have the time to part it out i would rather sell the shell as a roller. Basically everything will be there minus: Engine, box, loom, rad, brakes, rims, maybe the fmic. So it will be a complete car. Has had the front bar, bonnet, front guards and side skirts repaired and resprayed. I Dont know what its worth as a roller? I know i baught a R34 as a roller in the same state for 8k so i'll start it there as it is a genuine Autech 260RS series 2. And obviously the shell CANNOT BE COMPLIED. The car has HKS catback and HKS coilovers, everything else is stock.

Well series 2 Autech 260RS's just got rarer. Mine has failed complience. The minor rust that the panel beaters were to have fixed wasnt and they compliece guys failed the car. So i have just waisted 10months and a shit load of money. I will get the car trucked to me here in perth now and strip it to try and recover some of the costs. I am now trying to get hold of the guy that sold it to me, but he has dissapeared from the face of the earth. I am waiting on a call back from consumer affairs now to see of there is anything i can do. All i can is F#@K

Man IMO thats the perfect offset! Might have to get the same.

bump

Time for an update... When we last left off a formal complaint had been made and the panel beater had 30days to complete the car or court action would be taken against him. Well... after 29days he finnally finished the car. Its now at the complience guys, but... As some are aware you have to get a car complied within 12months of bringing it into the country. As the panel beater has taken so long we have gone over the 12months. We are currently waiting to hear back from SEVS if we can get an extension due to the circumstances. So if all goes well i should have the car byt the end of the month.

This one is so hot!! Wana paint mine black now!!

Hmm been reading this with interest as i went for the 2860-7's as i wanted the response (there the same as GT-SS??). I wanted 300rwkw with them, might get it. Mine's a built motor with cams, so hopefully be responsive. Will know shortly.

Go the +29's at the back to. Will need to run an undersize tyre though. Alot of wheel fitment also comes down to the ride height due to camber change and i think people forget this. I put R34 GTR rims which are 18x9+30 on my wifes 34gtt 4 door and the front the rim lip sat dead level with the guard lip at slightly lowerd and the rear they sat way in. On my old R34 Gtt sedan which was dumped i had 17x9 + 30 and needed a 20mm spacer to bring it out because of the camber and at the rear had 17x9.5 +15 and the rim lip sat 15mm out of the guard. So a 9.5 +29 should with a decent lower and some negative camber have the rim lip level with the guard. The front go for sure the 225 and be aware that if you are running it low the tyre will grab the inner gaurd liner at its taller then the stock tyre. In all honesty it looks phat having the rim out of the guard and a stretched tyre but for daily use go it sitting level with the gaurd lip. The pic of the car when its lowered is with the 20mm spacer and the pic of it at slightly lower then standard is without. You can see the diference ride height plays. Then the black skyline is my wifes with the 34 gtr rims on it.

well done steve and the team!! top work