msports180

$25,000ono

I will do this cheaper with stock turbo/ecu/inj's or will swap for a jzx100 chaser manual/s15 or c33 laurel plus cash my way need it gone

ok i bleed every single point i could and got no air out. The pedal still feels the same and the handbrake still dusnt lock up. If i giv the handbrake a few short pulls before then really reef on it then they lock. sooo i dont know maybe the master cylinder is shot? maybe the cylinder in the handbrake is? its really shitting me now. If i cant fix it mite look into these handbrake shoes, allthough that means i then need to get another lever for inside the car as i removed it. Neil

$25,500 this thing is ready to go, anyone looking into drifting this is it. So balanced, very smooth on transitions. Beautifull to drift. Only needs a 2way and thats it. Then nothing else needs to be spent on it.

i will throw in 4xr33 stock rims with tyres so then you have everything you need straight away to go drifting. You can fit 4 rims and tyres where the back seat used to be and another 4 in the boot

thanks mate i got a big head now i could sell you the whole car and then u could put the stuff on yours if you cant find autoworx send me a pm and i'll find there details for ya.

seen the orange one is mine i'll contribute try autoworx in wangara WA, they do the sideskirts and rear pods. But im unsure of the front bar. Neil

bump

thanks guys i will try that 2moro.

i installed a hydraulic handbrake into my r34 its a racing logic one. Before i put it in i had a firm pedal. Since the handbrake has gone in the pedal is softer and takes longer to engage. I have bleed the brakes because i thaught that was the problem but it made no difference. I bled them from the foot pedal, do i need to bleed them from the handbrake? eg: instead of pushing on the pedal like normal pull on the handbrake? Would air get trapped in there as its a high spot? or would normal bleeding push it out? The other thing is it does not lock up that well? i have to pull the lever fully up for it to lock (and only just locks up), others i have seen u could pull it only slighlty and it locks? this problem would probably be fixed by the above to? thanks Neil

im selling the car now so i need to get hold of a windscreen asap. I can order one from windscreens o'brien but it takes at least 5 weeks to come from over east. If i can get one sooner then that i would be happy. thanks.

thanks mate knew i forgort something first post edited.

OK looks like this is back up for sale, In our new house now and if i want the things i want its gotta go. New car is on the way aswell so something has to give. Have reduced the price $5000. Unfortunatley in 6-12months i'll have the money for something like this again but not now... I hadnt moved the car since september and in that time the AFM has died so i will get a new one soon and the windscreen is cracked. Im selling my recently completed R34 Drift car. Unfortunatley due to a change in circumstances i wont be able to use it to its full potential. The car is a RACE/RALLY rego ONLY it cannot be registered EVER. So please dont ask about compliancing rego etc etc... The details are: 1999 R34 Skyline Sedan (had 73k's) Factory NEO turbo Auto Engine: 1994 180sx SR20DET with 60k's Trust TD06H-20G turbo Tial 38mm external gate High Mount manifold Nismo 550cc injector's FMIC Retuned ECU Z32 AFM Full 3inch exhaust K+N pod Oil cooler and relocator Catch can Custom Engine loom by PLMS devlepments Driveline: S13 5 speed Extreme Clutch Custom 2 peice tail shaft Shimmed Stock Diff Suspension: G4 coilovers with custom spring rates to suit SR20 conversion Front Nismo Upper control arms Rear camber arms Hicas breaker URAS extra lock spacer's Front 20mm spacer's Wheels: URAS 17x9 + 30 with falken tyres ~ 50% URAS 17x9.5 + 15 with average tyre's Interior: Fixed back seats on Bride super low rails Racing logic hydraulic handbrake Deep dish steering wheel Custom dash setup with Apexi RSM as speedo/tacho autometer fuel gauge custom warning lights 4 X defi style gauges relocated battery 2 X harnesses completely gutted dash/ interior of all trim and sound deadning Exterior: Full nismo option skirts maseratti orange paint Thats all i can think of atm i have weighed the car with the SR conversion it came in at 1240kg 240kg lighter then stock!! have also had it dynoed at 296rwhp @ 12psi Since completion i have taken the car to one wet track day and only done around 300 road km's. Everything was baught new for the car. I wanted to build something reliable from the start. The only thing the car really needs is a 2way diff and it is finsihed. Took the car to a drift comp sept, dry day at last. Went damn hard came 4th which i was happy with seen it was the first time i had drifted on a dry track in 2 years!! Easliy fried the 17x9.5's with 235/45's so much grip with them to was awesome kept up with a 430rwhp ceffie! Im looking at around $25,500 $21000 $20,000ono if you have any questions please pm me. Im located in Bunbury WA (2hours south of perth) I will post photo's later for now please see the link at the bottom of the page. please keep any negative comments to yourself.

ooh thats nice. Damn good price to!! what kinda power has this laid down? i mite be keen if i can sell my 34.

Hey guys ive been flat out lately so havnt touched the car for ages. There's not much i can do without money anyway Only news is to keep an eye out in HPI mag in the next few months But... I am going to be putting it up for sale soon. As i am not going to be able to use the car as often as i had hoped. I am rostered on nearly every drift day for the next 6months and i cannot get time off. So im thinking of selling and going something registered so i can at least enjoy it on the road. Im also going to be selling my 180 to and combine the proceeds of both and get somthing newer. I havnt decided as yet what to buy. So if anyone is keen for a car that just needs a few simple things to be ready to be competetive in any level send me a pm. im looking for offer's above $25k, that may seem like alot but keep in mind everything wud be lucky to be 250kms old. Also there only real things it needs is 2way and possibly a bigger radiator.

Just got back from Adrenaline Performance and Fabrication where i had the car dyno'd... very happy car did 296rwhp @ .9 bar boost i am very happy with the results, it is still runny bulk rich at full power the AFR is around 10:1. Tried winding some more boost into it but it kept spiking at one stage we seen 24psi!! made 324rwhp @ like 5000rpm then so we backed off. keep in mind im still running stock cams atm also its still only running just a basic retuned rom... so i rekon there's easliy 330rwhp in it. very very happy, and fcuk it was loud in the dyno cell!!

cars going onto the dyno 2moro just to get a power run and check AFR's, if there good gonna sneak some more boost into it. The new daugherboard i baught turned out to be fine it was the noob that installed it that got it wrong so it runs sweet now havnt done much else to it, havnt had the time or the money. There's no events any time soon to so im not gonna get to use it in anger... It sucks just sitting there...

i was going to do this with my 34 as i couldnt run a long enough inlet tract to avoid reversion through the airflow meter. I was told of a few positive's and a few negative's. The positives being no reversion throught the AFM, so if your running a bigger turbo you should get beter response on/off the throttle and should stop the stalling when coming to a stop (for those that dont know what reversion it is, its the noise you hear from your pod filter when u back off, the flutter sound. its the air coming back up from the compressor of the turbo. This can cause the afm to read more air and hence ritchen up the mixture, cough fart stop) The second positive being less restriction before the turbo so you may get some free power. Now the negative's, the first im not completely sure as i have not been able to test it back to back. I have been told if you run the AFM after the intercooler you may have some mixture problems. As the air is denser coming back from the intercooler. The pressure makes no diffrence as its still the same volume of air but the density may affect it. As i said i have not been able to run a car with the AFM before the turbo then put it into the FMIC piping back to back to test this. The second negative is that as someone else mentioned, any crap going through your breather system is going to end up on the AFM element. If you have an open breather system with a catch can that does not recir back into the inlet tract not a problem (allthough i believe this is illegall?) if your breather system does recirc then your in for some trouble. I got these from some very experienced guys, one who has done a few AFM after intercooler instalations that have both worked very well. Hope it helps...

hi pics please to [email protected] thanks

thanks!!! yeah its the orange that does for me, like a moth to a flame :laughing-smiley-014:

Track day was a complete farce. There was way to many entry's they should of knocked some back last count was 65!! Then the clerk of course on the day was an old tool who didnt like drifter's, basically said it aint motorsport, when you grow into circuit racing you will see how serious it is. Then it started pissing down, puddles everywhere. I got 4 laps in the rain for the whole day. What a waste of time and money. http://www.melts.net/drift/collie.WMV here's a short video someone made.

Well the new daughterboard turned up, fitted it to the car and the car ran like shit. At first i thaught it was the AFM, so we cleaned it checked everything and tried again, still ran like shit. Enuf to foul the plugs!! Then noticed the fuel pump wasnt running... checked al the fuses, relays etc nothing no power to it. Thaugh what the hell lets put the old daughterboard in. And the f#*ker ran properly!! well the best it cud with fouled plugs. The theory atm is that the eproms must of been accidentally erased in transit somehow? So gonna do the track day this sunday with it running a bit rough. Also we shimmed the stock diff up. Put a 1.2mm shim in as the diff was pretty loose. Its pretty much locked now!! hehe thats all ive pretty much done lately.

damn thats cheap for a compete package. Nice looking car to!! G/L with the sale

got some bits left still from my project car. Just odd stuff, moving mouse soon want it gone. Front LH seat belt $100 Rear seat belts $50 each Std Rear Camber arms $40pair Pwr steer resevouir $20 stock auto trans external cooler $40 will post at buyers expense im in bunbury WA 0419943997