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machg

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Everything posted by machg

  1. Sorry about the delay in replying, the fuel pump mentioned was bought for another project. I think R30/L24E fuel pump might be located inside the fuel tank. Can't see why you wouldn't be able to plumb this pump to the fuel line that comes from the tank, and wire it using the wires that are attached to the factory fuel pump. Would be easier than replacing the factory pump (if its an in tank job). Any external EFI pump from a large car (for sufficient fuel pressure/flow) should be able to be used in this way. machg
  2. Garage cleanout, R30 / L24E parts: L24E standard computer L24E bare EFI loom R30 L/R headlights (both unchipped) R30 L/R front indicators (one cracked, one A1) L24E dizzy L24E coil Bosch external EFI pump (of EA Falcon, little use) L24E block water inlet with 3 sensors Prices neg, U pay freight, may be able to get low res (camera phone) pics if interested. All stuff was working when pulled from wreck, but will be sold as is where is. machg (Southern Tasmania)
  3. Is it from the rubber oOo shaped mounting thingy cracking? If so, I've had the same problem, isn't it a bitch! machg Mods RB20DET turbocharger R33 intercooler front mount
  4. Just checked the official Formula 1 site: launch control is banned for 2005, traction control is not, but its operation below 100km/h is supposedly limited. So theoretically, good starts are more in the hands of the driver than previously. Having said that, I don't think anyone believes that the current spec Williams is a "Renault" when it comes to starts. It will be interesting to see how Mark goes if he starts from a lower grid postition at Montreal, I reckon it might be a good oppurtunity for him to shine, if he can survive the first lap unscathed. How ironic was the European GP with Jarno getting a penalty! If only Mark had not been so Tru(lli)ely phobic! LOL Hopefully someone will punt Mark's nemesis so he doesn't go batty looking at the Toyota's rear wing! {just kidding} machg
  5. BOoStEr I like the sound of putting overdrive gears in my box. When you say L20 box, do you mean as in OZ Nissan Bluebird 5-speed? BensDr30 R&P; do you mean crownwheel and pinion? machg
  6. If you are using hammers on the tops of the joints, leave nuts on or you'll f*** the threads. machg
  7. Guys, Doing a lot of K's in my HR30 now. It would be nice to have a taller diff. What is the tallest diff I can get for my car? It currently runs the L20ET auto diff with L24E manual box (120km/h = 4000rpm) so how much difference would the "tall" diff make assuming I could find one. Not worried about getting off the line as 1st gear is ridiculously short anyway! cheers, machg
  8. Ok guys, Whats going to happen when the law changes (to 1989 model cars?) Will we be able to import models from 1989 up until the corresponding date of the change? E.g. law changes in June, we can bring in cars up until May 1989 under the 15 year old compliance rule? Or is it going to be BANG, no one can import ANY 1989 model cars after the date of the law change (except for those with cars already on the way)? How will the rego authorities know if the vehicle is elligible under the 15 year old rule, do you get a certificate or something? Cheers, machg
  9. Nissan MicraR link: http://www.rsportscars.com/eng/cars/micra_r.asp machg
  10. Ahhh bike in summer, turbo in winter, a man after my own heart.... (Suzuki RF600 summer, Nissan Skyline HR30 winter) good luck finding tasty winter transport. machg
  11. G'day, I have an HR30 sedan. I bought it when I was living in NSW already registered. I hasn't been ADR comlplied because it was brought in under the 15 year old rule. Mods that were made for rego were things like tyres, passenger mirror glass, seat belts, the usual. machg
  12. A New Nissan March had sex with a BTCC Nissan Almera (Pulsar) and this is their love child. Mmmmmmmm natural aspirated mid-engined magic. :wassup: (Sorry if you guys have seen this before) machg
  13. Quick update: Found split in one of the hoses that attaches to the intake plenum. Fixed that, now she goes heaps better, I reckon the RB20DET turbo might be good for 5% more power than the standard turbo going by the seat of my pants. machg
  14. Does the "stalling" coincide with the overheating? Hot and cold stalling usually have different causes. machg
  15. I have heard of blocked catalytic converters causing similar symptoms. Does she do a lot of around town running and not a lot of K's? Blocked cat? Nothing a bit of "violence" to the cat won't fix, but you didn't hear that from me... Just something to look at if the other solutions don't help. machg
  16. Blind Elk, I can run my L20ET on 91 octane with no problems with pinging, so I reckon an L24E on 98 octane (impossible to get from the pump in Tassie) running standard boost with nice rich fueling from the wolf should be O.K. I reckon you'll tear your hair out swapping manifolds though.....an absolute **** of a job. machg
  17. :angel: Already have standard R33 GTST cooler front mounted. (Done initially for longevity rather than performance) :angel: Refresh my memory guys L20ET standard boost = ?psi. Standard boost + small cooler - 95RON unleaded + 50% more boost = :Bang: ? Cheers, machg
  18. Shan, I can appreciate your point of view, what shits me is the "back-door" way government goes about changing laws. Does anyone else think its a bit fishy that these changes have come in just in time for the Japanese 1989 model year? (so many CLASSIC cars from the land of the rising sun that year GTR, MX-5, MR2 Turbo etc. etc.) Also guys, when I'm back on my feet financially, will I still be able to import a modified MX5 as a race/rally only proposition? And when I've caned the absolute you-know-what out of it and killed something mechanically, will I still be able to strip it, drop a nice ported 13B (with the donor's cars brakes etc.) get the conversion fully engineered (e.g. new compliance plate fitted), then get it registered? There still seems to me to be ways around pathetic compliance hassles, if you've got the time and money. P.S. If I can't do the above, how will that "Bullet Roadster" (you know highly modded MX-5's with twin turbo Lexus motors) company go with their business? machg
  19. Yeah, I wouldn't give up on the battery totally. I thought my battery was stuffed. Car had been off the road for 6 months and was completely dead when I went to crank the car. Stuck it on charge for like 18 hours and it started no problems. Drove it to the mechanics for rego., he managed to drain it completely, and said he reckoned it was stuffed. Had to jump it twice on the way home, whacked it on the charger again, cleaned the terminals and connections, and hey presto, no more problems. Like you suggested, if its still running the radio etc. it must still have some charge. From my experience with batteries, the big killers seem to be age, and running run them dead flat, then leaving it flat. If your battery is more than a few years old, its the easiest thing to change first when chasing this kind of problem. Hope this helps, machg
  20. Good on you for doing Targa, you should have a blast, just remeber 9/10ths and you should go good. Having to have an International Rally licence for Targa is another demonstation of why Rally of Tas. is a better value for money exercise in my opinion. (pretty sure you can do it with a National Rally licence) Good luck, machg
  21. If you haven't done any track work, trust me, weight is you biggest enemy. I have done a little entry level track work, and I agree with others that say that a R32 GTST is the way to go. I know of a couple of lightly modded GTSTs (e.g. external engine mods and suspension) that are faster around Symmonds Plains than a standard GTR. machg
  22. Heads on these engines are prone to corrosion, and finding good heads for L series engines is getting very difficult and therefore expensive, however you can't assume that this could be the only cause of your problem.. machg
  23. G'day all, Car is going, registered etc. Performance wise, there doesn't seem to be much difference to the old turbo, maybe a little guicker getting onto boost, but as its running standard boost (hey, I guess the adapted wastgate actuator works!) goes the same as the old turbo, pretty much. Me thinks its time to wind up the boost a little. For on occasional fang on 95RON what would be a safe boost level? (still have the "overboost" failsafe fitted) Thanks guys for all your help and advise, machg
  24. I hope the R34 holds together for all of Targa Tas this year, they should be hard to beat. According to a lot of people Rally Tas = Targa Tas - time and distance - high entry fees - the overwhelming "wank" factor that Targa seems to attract. Here's a link to Rally Tas. www.rallytasmania.com.au Cheers, machg
  25. G'day, I have a C2S licence, I found CAMS very helpful, applied about 3 weeks before my first club day and the licence showed up in about 2 weeks. Learning the hard way; no money = no motorsport, boo hoo. machg
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