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machg

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Everything posted by machg

  1. The gentle radius 90 degree bend attachment on compressor output side of the turbo fouls the intake manifold. I was very lucky, saw this coming and managed to find a different attachment that bolted on to the output side of the turbo. (thanks again to David Griffiths Automotive) She's not running yet, I've got to get two broken studs fixed before I bolt it all back together. machg
  2. Guys, You know the hot air pipe that runs off the dump pipe up to the intake manifold just below the overboost valve on the L20ET? Will the engine still run OK if I blank off the intake side, as the RB dump pipe doesn't have a hole to let the hot air out? Oh, by the way, this is a fairly straight foward conversion, but for a couple of niggly fit problems due to the proximity of the intake manifold on the L20ET engine, much thanks to David Griffiths Automotive, Moonah. machg
  3. I have read that the RB DE NEO motors perform signifigantly better than the earlier Non NEO motors. Is this true? If it is, is it because the NEO motors run variable valve timing? Why do VVT engines seem to make more power AND use less fuel than earlier engines? It can't just be cam timing, surely!? Are the gains worth the extra complexity and cost of buying a NEO? All opinions appreciated, (especially if you are a mechanic!) machg
  4. Assuming you mean wastegate actuator, the actuator of the L20ET turbo also fits, sorry I don't have a spare. machg
  5. I need two of the connections that bolt onto the sides of these turbos to supply coolant to the turbo, you know, the ones that have a hollow bolt that screws into the turbo going through them. The copper washers too please. I already have the bolts. Need = urgent, Price = cheap! Cheers, machg, Tasmania
  6. Depends what you are after, but I have had no problems with Moonah Mufflers in Gormanston Road Moonah.
  7. Didn't do the compliance on my HR30, but the mods are obvious. Front seatbelts look factory. Rear seat belts came out of an Aussie R30 (probably sedan) and mount to factory provided mounting point on top of rear parcel shelf. Passenger side mirror is Aussie flat glass. Fuel filler neck has been changed to ULP size, looks a bit bodgie, probably an adapted HR31 neck. Obviously tyres were changed to acceptable rubber. I am guessing you're talking about a DR30, so sorry if this is irrelevant. machg
  8. Not that I have done the swap, but according to the sages on this forum, the short motors are externally physically identical. machg
  9. The actuator itself has one inlet for boost, but the L20 turbo housing has two outlets for boost, whereas the RB seems to only have one. If I had a digital cam it would help! machg
  10. Hooray! Got a 2nd hand RB20DET turbo for my L20ET today (much thanks to blind_elk). It came minus the wastegate actuator, but I think the one off the L20ET turbo should be able to be used. The turbos look very similar externally. The first problem I can see is that the actuator receives boost from two points on the compressor side of the L20 turbo, but I can only see one point on the RB turbo. Given that the actuator receives boost at one point when used with the L20 (it "T"s 2 to 1 the L20 turbo boost points), can I just run one pipe straight from the RB boost point to the L20 actuator? I know I will have to be pretty careful that the set-up works properly before installing the turbo, so as not to have overboost or chronic wastegate creep/bleed but I know how the actuator works and my skyline still has the "fail safe" valve fitted to the inlet manifold, so I reckon I can sort it myself. Can anyone see any other potential problems? Cheers, machg
  11. Dude, I think buying a turbo car as a first car is a HUGE mistake. I am 35, my wife and I own a '84 HR30 L20ET Skyline (with a stuffed turbo), '94 Suzuki RF600R bike and '87 Twin Cam Corolla. Three bad things about turbos: 1/. The thing with turbos is that they have to be well looked after (they are more hassle than N/A cars), if money gets tight and you miss a service, you're playing Russian Roulette with the turbo (I know, thats probably what stuffed mine). 2/. Turbo cars can be a real handful, especially in the wet. I wouldn't have got a turbo car if I hadn't had already had alternative, reliable transport (the bike), and seeing as you want a car you are going to "jump in and run done to the shops" you don't want a turbo. 3/. Most insurance companies charge like a wounded bull as soon as they see "Turbo" on a cars specifications. I hope all goes well getting back on your feet, just stay away from a turbos until you are seriously able to spend $$$ buying and maintaining it. You can get there, I met a guy the other day in his early 20's with 2004 ZX-10R road bike, 11 second quarter VL turbo and a work ute, but he is working 3 jobs and 60 - 70 hours per week to pay for them.... Cheers, machg
  12. Yeah, I thought you could comply a 15 yo car for about $400.00, so why not do it? But, I think maybe the laws have just been changed.
  13. Thanx guys, I reckon a GTR might be a bit beyond my driving skill level (testicle size?!) and budget. A GTST sounds like a good idea, if you were going to get a R32 (or any 198x car), wouldn't you comply it yourself given the 15 year rule, or does that only go for cars not in OZ yet?
  14. G'day guys, I can see a problem happening in the next couple years. Did a club day and ran in Modern Regularity last year in my wife's Twin Cam Corolla and had a blast. I want to do more, similar, entry level motorsport in the future, but told the missus that I'd spare her car. This year I hope to do up something really small, cheap and shitty (e.g. Suzuki Hatch) as a track only car. BUT in the future (when I hopefully have some $$$) I can see that I will probably want to do up my HR30 to do both everyday driver and track car. Can you make them go and handle without spending silly $$$, or would I be better off parting with her and starting with something lighter? I reckon the highest level motorsport I'll ever do is probably something like under 2-litre improved production. Thanks for indulging in my navel gazing.... machg
  15. Given the cost and rarity of good L28E blocks, has anyone thought of using an L28D bottom end with a de-compression plate and L20ET head, manifolds etc. etc. The bottom end would be indestructible given that its made to handle 23?:1 compression ratio. machg
  16. R31 lights are different. machg
  17. Griffiths Auto is highly recommended, I took my HR30 there with a stuffed alternator, Dave was originally going to put a new one in, but when he found out the cost, he got mine reco'd and saved me $$$, has also been very helpful when my turbo shat itself....
  18. Yeah, it runs a little warm, never gets much over 3/4 on the temp guage, but it always cools well at idle/low throttle driving, and it never over-heats. But yes, water temp runs a little higher with intercooler where it is, but cooler inlet temps would compensate for this a bit, no? machg
  19. Phat MR30, Sorry its been a while since I've checked this forum, bloody computer hassles, I'm at Carlton, 35-45 mins east of Hobart. That Sylvia looks like a weapon. machg
  20. You can fit an R33 GTS-T (yeah, I know its puny) cooler in front of the radiator, but I had to cut a little out of the top of the grille (not visible from front) and use a tight bend (see a turbo specialist) at bottom cooler outlet. cheers, machg
  21. How old are your plug leads? I just had similar problem with my "other" car (twin cam corolla) - new leads fixed it completely. machg
  22. Thanks Ghostrider, sounds like the easiest power upgrade is to wind up the boost a little! Going with that turbo off the RB20DET (cheers BlindElk) be back on the road early 2005. machg
  23. Former aussie R31 owner: Great cars, SHIT diffs. machg
  24. Don't mean to sound insulting, but if you are going to go to the hassle of swapping engines, whats to stop you going for an RB 25 DET instead of an RB 20 DET, given that from a legal viewpoint, the R30s were available with an L28? (Or was that just the 4 doors?) Mmmmmmmmm, more torque and 180+kW bog stock, standard. machg
  25. I disagree with calling an MX5 a hair dressers car, even standard. It would be interesting to put a standard MX5 against a standard DR30 around Baskerville raceway, I reckon the MX5 would do a quicker lap time. (But the DR30 would shit on it on any circuit with a decent straight.) machg
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