abu

Not a problem. Yeah the intercooler will give you a little less response due to the increased size in piping (diameter) and length. Increase and power probably due to more dense cooling and slight boost increase due to more flow, same as with the exhaust (turbo back). Nothing to worry about, you wont notice much difference once you put the cooler on, in regards to power/response loss. If anything you will pick up 1psi boost and get a little more mid-range kick. Stock turbo is fairly small, and will run out of puff at about 5,500rpm. Temporary solution is an RB25 turbo as they are slightly larger than that on the RB20, but its only good for about 190rwkw with supporting mods. Alternatively a RB20 high flow would do you well, get you over the 200rwkw mark, or there is a lot of other after market solutions available. Have a read through that link I posted up, you can check out the dyno graphs and the power curves of people running different turbos. Will give you an idea of how much lag/response to expect with what size turbo

Haven't really been in or driven any R32 with after market turbo come to think of it.. Mostly all SR20s and RB25s!..

Thanks Roy, appreciate it. It just seems to make me more and more confused! The more different setups I go for a drive in the more I don't know what to get lol 2 cars that I went in that really stick in my mind were a R33 running a 2530 and a 180sx running a t04e. 180sx had 241rwkw with supporting mods, and when this things hit about 4,200rpm it was just insane!! You didn't really notice the lag nor did you mind it, because once that thing hit boost it was all over. The R33 had a HKS2530 running on 18-19psi, not sure what ECU or anything as it must have pretty much came out of Japan like that. This thing was a response machine! If you put your foot down it was just gonnnnne!.. so quick no lag just straight power/boost on tap. 2 different cars, different engines and setups. 180sx more like a power machine, the R33 more built for response I'm guessing but both where awesome fun. Hence my confusion

Full boost at 4,000rpm is alright, I will look into it. Thanks Phil. From my understanding if you want response, you will have to compromise a bit of top end, but if you want over-all power, you don't/cant have that response down low as the turbo is too large. I think what Roy is saying is fk the response off because the engine is too small get get anything out of it down that low in the rev range. Instead, get a good balanced turbo that will get moving around 4,000rpm and above and will hold all the way till red line giving you good strong power.. but for that you compromise power within the 3,000rpm range and below. Is that right Roy?

Anyone know about a Garret GT2876R? I believe its rated at about 450hp..

Phil, whats the 3071r rated at HP wise, and when would you expect full boost on an RB20?

Well if you want to know what a standard turbo RB20 drives like feel free to come and take mine for a spin.. in return for a drive in yours, but you can drive! lol They do generally die off around 5500-6000rpm and really struggle after that to get to red-line. Mine is fairly stock, just cat back exhaust and pod. Haven't put the rest of my stuff on do to waiting for the car to get through compliance. Cant even think when they get to full boost, and I just drove it about an hours ago lol. No idea but generally start pulling fairly hard about 3,500pm + till about 5,500 - 6,000rpm.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095 Have a read through this thread, "Rb20 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results". I really like it because you can see what other people are putting out power wise with there RB20s and with what modifications. Its a good reference to what works and what doesn't. Its all well and good to have it in theory, but these are some real results you can compare too.

You got a good list happening there, and to get the RB20 up and moving you wont need to spend big $$. No need to go RB25 if your only hunting for about 300rwhp, its easily done. You can get the following to get to 300rwhp; FMIC Fuel pump (GTR, WALBRO, BOSCH) 3" turbo back exhaust After market clutch for reliability High-flow RB20/25 turbo Tune (REMAP or piggy back (SAFCII, E-MANAGE) A tune is really important. It improves fuel economy, power and also response. A good tune will help your engine last and perform at its best. Plenty of info available! Good luck with it all man, RB20's are the best lol

Thats an advantage or using a larger turbo, its not always on boost, you save fuel but when you need the power you just hit the gas and your away. I think the bad thing about a large slightly more laggy turbo is that, once you do hit that 3500 - 4500rpm and make full boost, its instant wheel spin almost. Bit hard to keep that power to the ground, but I guess thats the same with a quick spooling turbo, but you will just get wheel spin really low in the RPM range.

Didn't even know they made holders! How about some Velcro?

Hey Yeah I am also a big fan of the GTRS. I have read so much positive feedback about this turbo, they seem perfect almost. Everyone that I have talked to who is running a GTRS has said they are awesome, come to think of it, I don't think I have ever heard a negative. I think there a bit cheaper $2,300 now too, but do you know what sort of power they are good for on an RB20?

Hey Yeah I am a big fan of the 2535, very nice turbo and well priced. Are you running it on an RB20 or RB25? 240rwkw is about the max I would want to push my RB20, and thats if it makes it there. When do you get full boost and how much boost you running to get it to 240rwkw? That is more than enough power for me. GT30 is available in internal gate yeah? If so, might be something to consider getting I think..

Thats a good point, I see what your saying. I was very close to buying a HKS2535 but ended up losing the auction as it went for more than I budgeted for. But have seen good results on RB25's with a HKS2535 and also a few R32 RB20's floating around with these turbos. They seem to be well priced, and a decent size. Don't mind losing the power a little down low, as long as it picks up and goes strong up top.

Is that right? I have heard it mentioned before but thought it wasn't like a true fact, just people comparing thoughts. Whats the reason behind that? Is it due to the size of a 4cyl manifold compared to a 6? 2 extra powers, 2 extra runner lengths.. just my thought.

Oh really, I'm in no rush to buy at the moment. Will probably source a good priced/condition turbo from Japan as I can get parts at a good price through my cousin. Just want to decide on a turbo first then I can look around seriously. Might actually come up and take a look, would be keen to see how they perform!

Keen on the injectors. PM sent, Thanks, Abu

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=22458 37 pages of oil feedback

Hey You can use an original WALBRO pump, they are about $160 delivered from SLIDE in the for sale trader section. BOSCH 040 I believe is the one your chasing, that is also a good option. Personally would go for an original WALBRO as they are very reliable pumps. Few people pushing 300rwkw with them, as well as being very easy to install! Its been covered heaps on the forums. Check the DIY/tutorial section and you will find and installation guide more than likely, also search the forced induction section for like "what fuel pump" and you should get a lot of results. Good luck. Abu

Thats right. They are only oil cooled I believe so no need to use your water lines. You can block those up, and your standard oil return and feed would work. Personally would get a nice braided oil feed for a nice smooth flow and easy installation. Abu

Call up Doug from EASTSIDE Installs, he comes to you as well. 0402855801. He does installs on alarms and offers lifetime warranty on any install that the does. He comes out to you so you don't have to go anywhere. Give him a call if you want, say I told you to call him. Good luck.

Thanks for that Jono. I have heard of another member running 2871 on his RB20, making about 220rwkw on roughly 18psi tuned with a wolf v500. That didn't seem to bad to me, 3400 isn't tooo bad I suppose! Really? I thought they were a little quicker spooling than that. I have heard from many that 2530 is supposedly one of the best balanced turbo for the RB20.. I also drove an R33 back a few years ago, running a 2530 on 18psi and that thing was spastic! That car it self made me want to buy a skyline.. lol Under 200rwkw is easily achieved, can get to about 190rwkw with a stock RB25 turbo. I am looking at pushing it to a little more than that. Hey Roy Thanks for that mate. I went with an RB25 turbo but changed my mind due to exactly what you said, budget upgrade and they are still very fragile. 14psi is its limit, so basically no room to go any further. No point going to an RB25 turbo then it blowing up after a few months, if that! How much boost where those 2530s running at? Hey John GT30R lol are you serious? I was talking to a guy off NS.com who was running a GARRETT 3540R on his SR20 motor lol The thing was full boosting about 4000-4500rpm and making 241rwkw! Now thats lag, but thats also a lot of damn power! The guys on NS.com seem to run huge turbos on there SR20s, with some lag, but what do you expect. End up making some pretty decent power with such a small motor. Seen a few running GT30's and shit like that, don't see why we cant do that on our RB20s! Think there was a guy running a GT30 on his forged RB20 motor in a Datsun on the forums? Ran like 10sec pass haha Hey Phil 3071R you say hey. .63 would be pretty good, will have to look into it some more! Haven't had a look at the 3071R but I know a few people are running them on there SR20s on NS.com. How much bigger is it compared to the 2871R, or is it more up there with the GT30? Thanks for all the comments guys, keep them coming! You have now all just given me more options to consider lol Abu

I have been reading but cant get what I want so this topic is going up. Turbo for RB20, standard internals with all supporting engine mods including -Wolf3d V400 -GTR injectors -BLiTZ I/C kit -3" turbo back exhaust -GTR fuel pump -Turbo GTXXXX? Now I am aiming for 220rwkw+ Turbo choices which I have looked at are GT2535, GT28RS, GT2530, GT2871R. Few people said maybe even GT3037? Basically all the GT2530's I find are to suit SR20 so are of a T25 flange. My question in regards to this turbo is, will it be too small for an RB20 thats looking at pushing 220rwkw+ ? Is it best to just find a T3 flanged GT2530 or would be be okay to use a T25 flanged one with a adapter plate? I have read in many articles that the HKS2530 is perfectly balanced for an RB20 motor, but it seems there aren't any T3 flange specific, is this the case? Is there any size difference in 2530s in T3 flange and in T25 flange? Question for GT28RS, GT2535, GT2871R: I have been told it might be to laggy on an RB20? When am I expecting full boost, and what power level is it likely to max out at? Or if anyone can suggest any other turbo which would be ideal to get 220rwkw+ that would be much appreciated. I don't mind the lag, and I don't mind if the turbo is a little big for the RB20, I can always use it on an RB25 motor later down the track. I want to stay low mount and internal gate, so please don't suggest anything that is firstly not able to be low mounted on standard manifold, and secondly not internally gated. Ideally I would like to get it to no more than 240rwkw, but anything around 220rwkw or beyond is more than enough for me. Any help or input would be much appreciated. Please don't tell me to search or check through the forum as I have done so, and I need specific replies to my questions in relation to those specific turbos listed above. If anyone has a thread with all the answers, or a specific answer to one of my questions, feel free to post it up for me to read. Thank you in advance, Abu

Can someone confirm why they decided to cut fuel? I mean, cutting fuel will definitely do more damage then cutting ignition? Excess ignition is usually what kills a motor not access fuel? But there must be some logical explanation behind it, maybe simple as JIN_MAN said, its easier to cut fuel than ignition?

Sometimes a dying fuel pump not supplying enough fuel pressure can causing ping/detonation due to the engine leaning out (more air than fuel).