abu

Dr Drift does a fairly good job and has for a lot of people on here and on NS.com http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=181157 ^Bit of feedback from members. It just depends how much you want to spend, I mean if you want to push it to 200rwkw why use a REMAP when a SAFC would do the same thing or you. SAFC cost about $250, thats what I paid for an almost brand new one, then installation - yourself, and tune $150, as appose to $600 - $1000 for a remap, and you will make similar if not the same power. There is nothing wrong with the REMAP, if anythere its better than a SAFC fuel only computer. I am still thinking you cant run GTR injectors with the SAFC, I suggest you get that clarified by someone, but the REMAP can support anything, Z32, after market injectors etc.. Another upside is SAFCII can be switched off to run standard fuel map, so if you dont want to run say 20psi, put it back to 10 and switch the SAFCII to standard fuel map. At any stage if you want to put the car back to stock, say standard fuel pump, turbo, stock cooler, you can always just take the SAFC II out and run the standard ECU tune as its only a piggy back computer. SAFC II can also support 2x fuel maps, so high boost/low boost, or an economy map and a high boost map etc.. REMAP, your stuck with the tune on there, if you want to get it changed, take it back to the tuner. thats the down side. If you put the car back to stock, you will need to get the REMAP taken out, and I am not sure if thats possible. Thanks, Abu

LOL if its stock turbo hahaha Metal blades would indicate a high flow. Best to check it before you blow it. Thanks, Abu

hahah pig squealing lol.. I dont understand why people upgrade from stock BOV to after market, its just a waste of money. Stock BOV works perfectly fine. The only reason I'd upgrade is for the sound, but again thats waste of money. Thanks, Abu

MONZA make cheap products, so as many people say on these forums, "you get what you pay for". Thanks, Abu

Just spray some degreaser on it, after its on there for a while wash it off with some warm soapy water and a high pressure hose, then just rinse it off with some hot water. Most car wash's these days have warm water on there "high pressure soap rinse" option, so just use that! The warm water does make a difference! Dont get to close with the high pressure hose, they have been known to damage the fins on the cooler due to the pressure. Thanks, Abu

My cousin had the same problem on one of his car's, Toyota Aristo. We changed the plugs and it was ok, but still miss firing, on the way to the petrol station the fuel pump actually died. Do your fuel pump prime at all? Fuel pump failure is generally caused due to old age, or running the petrol level really low, below 1/4 tank usually. Check if the fuel pump primes when you turn the ignition, if that doesn't work then its your fuel pump. If it does actually prime, then it could be your spark plugs, or a number of things such as your AFM, blocked injectors coilpacks etc.. Hope that helps. Thanks, Abu

Yep. The SSQ have a screw at the top which is the adjustment screw. If you wind that screw in it will open on higher boost/high RPM as it requires more pressure, and if you wind that screw out that will release the tension on the BOV and it will open up on a lower boost/RPM. Its more like a bolt rather than a screw, and it has a little nut on it in-between the head of the bolt and the surface of the BOV. Hope that helps Thanks, Abu

If anyone hasn't mentioned it already, the HKS SSQ fits in the stock location also, and sounds awesome. Has plenty of adjustment in it as well, but is an ATMO BOV. You can also tighten it right up and get some dose happening Thanks, Abu

That would be the easy option, and would probably save you money in the long run. Its fairly hassle free and the kit is designed to fit the specific car, so only cutting 1 hole usually, and just mounting the cooler it-self. HYPERGEAR also make a intercooler kit for R32 for about $330 pickup, in Melbourne. These kits are pretty good, and line up fairly well. All the kits are pretty much the same these days, HYPERGEAR, JUST JAP etc.. Includes all the clamps, silicone joiners and the relavent piping. Thanks, Abu

PM sent. I will take the NISMO gear-knob for $60 posted to Melbourne. Thanks, Abu

usually when you tighten the screw on the BOV, it gives the spring inside more tension, which makes it harder to open = more throttle/boost/RPM to open. At low RPM it wont open as there isn't enough pressure, so that would cause it to flutter/dose. When the screw it wound out, the spring isn't so tight, therefore requiring less pressure to open = less boost/RPM. At low RPM levels with not a great deal of pressure the BOV should open giving you no flutter/dose but instead BOV. If that isn't the case, maybe the BOV is stuffed, or as others said maybe open it up and see what the go is. Maybe its jammed or something. Thanks, Abu

With the above modifications you can make 200rwkw, even on standard injectors. Your issue now is working out if you can remove the piggy back ECU, and use the SAFC II. As far as I am aware you cannot run after market injectors on a SAFC II, as it cant be calibrated, thats what I have always been told and have always read, but that could be different for GTR injectors with the resistor pack. But as far as I am aware the resistor pack for the GTR injectors only changes the injectors from high impedance to low impedance, or vise versa? Don't quote me on that, thats just what I remember off the top of my head. But if that is the case, that means they wont run on standard ECU as the injectors have a higher flow rating to standard RB20 ones, so it will be hard, if not impossible to tune it with an SAFC? BUT if you can run the standard injectors on the STD ECU, then there is no problem tuning the GTR injectors through an SAFC II. I'm just trying to work this out in my head, and I am not sure on the specific details, but I am just addressing some of the points you need to consider, and maybe someone who knows specifically, can clarify for you. What I think you should do is scrap the piggy back computer that is in there, and put it standard RB20 injectors, if you don't have them in there already and get the SAFC II installed and tuned. With the right boost/tune you will get to 200rwkw on STD injectors, but probably not recommended that you go any higher then that as they will close to maxing out.. The harder you push them the more prone they will be to give in. Hope some of that brain storming helps. Good luck! Thanks, Abu

No clue about the chipped ECU.. I'm pretty sure E-MANAGE can take after market injectors so my advice would be, upgrade the injectors to something like 550cc, and you already got the Z32, so try and push for about 250 - 280rwkw depending if the turbo can handle that. Can the E-MANAGE run the Z32, and if not since the ECU is chipped to, can they work together (STD ECU Chipped + E-MANAGE + Z32)? You should be able to make 220rwkw at a minimum if everything runs accordingly. Is the car up and running yet? Thanks, Abu

Very nice looking car man, I love it! Quick questions, do you want to sell me that clip on rear view mirror by any chance!? Please say yes and send me a PM with a price lol Thanks, Abu

I read about the GTR PFC running on RB20/25 but didn't stay up to date with the thread. Where are the looms available from? Sorry to go off topic Thanks, Abu

Hey These days all the cheap intercooler kits are pretty much of the same quality and price. If your after a good kit, used by many members I would personally go for the Just Jap intercooler kit to suit R32. http://www.justjap.com/parts_nintercoolers.htm Its $345 + shipping, which is a great price for a brand new kit. Includes all necessary fittings such as hose clamps, brackets, and silicone joiners. Has all polished piping also, and a polished intercooler finish. Intercooler size is 600x300x76. Its not the intercooler size that will cause you lag, it is the piping length from turbo to intercooler, then up to the intake manifold. A lot of people are running this style of piping on there RB's, with no troubles, and making very good power. Most people on here tend to go with these styles of kits as they serve there purpose for the price. Other than that there are the big brand named intercooler kits, BLITZ, Greddy etc.. But if your looking for a good quality product at a low cost, for some street use and reliability, this will serve you well. Some have had issues with the piping and believe they aren't very good quality, but more people have got them fitted up and running with very little issues. Good luck with it Thanks, Abu I doubt the lag would be highly noticeable at all.

Ah damn. Thanks anyways guys! Abu

Hey By any chance would this suit R32? Thanks, Abu

Interested in the cooler, size, brand, pictures? PM me the details Thanks, Abu

LoL Just depend on how dumb the driveway is designed I guess!.. Thanks man. Abu

SAFC II is a piggy back fuel computer. If your chasing about 210rwkw, then the SAFC II will do the job. Once you need to upgrade the stock injectors to after market, the SAFC II will becoming useless as they cant support after market injectors with a higher flow rating. Around 200 - 220rwkw the stock injectors will max out on RB20. Thats a rough figure, as results on the forums vary. With the following mods; RB25 turbo Intercooler 3" turbo back exhaust GTR/WALBRO/BOSCH 040 fuel pump SAFC II + tune Power = 175 - 190rwkw On about 14psi that should get you about 180rwkw, but you wouldn't want to push that stock RB25 turbo anymore, but if you were to, no more than 15 -16psi max. You should be able to get 160rwkw on the above mods, running stock RB20 turbo. I also bought an SAFC II for my R32, and have just purchased cooler piping and a cooler. Once my compliance gets done, I will buy an after market turbo depending on funds, if not then a RB25 turbo. Already have a GTR fuel pump in there, so will install the SAFC II my self and get it tuned by something.. hoping for anything from 180 - 200rwkw depending on my turbo choice. Thanks, Abu

Abu

Yep thats right. I should have added that in Thanks, Abu

No handcontroller just means you have no real time readings, and cant tune via handcontroller. You will have to plug the unit into a laptop via cable and have it tuned that way. That will require you to have the software to tune via laptop. Nothing major, you could always just get one later on if one comes up, its not required. Thanks, Abu

Hey man Twin canons rock, and yes they are fkn loud. Sounds like a straight through 3" with no cat, thats how loud it is. Canons/rear bar/side skirts haven't scraped on anything yet, just the front bar has it has the lower lip which catches on to a fair bit, but will be raising it up 1cm all around this weekend. Silver is by far the best color, I'm pretty happy that I chose it! Thanks, Abu