abu

oh boy lol I was paying attention until I saw the word neons, now I've lost all concentration

haha na can't run it at 8ohm its just got diagrams showing different setups at different ohms ah ok no worries, thanks for the info. Should all go well at 4ohm hopefully

ah awesome, thanks for clarifying Sam Not so good with this stuff, too technical for me lol I've got the jumpers that came with the subwoofer as well as a wiring manual to run it at 1ohm, 2ohm, 4ohm, 8ohm so I will just follow that and run it at 4ohm Just out of curiosity, is there much noticeable difference from 2ohm to 4ohm in terms of sound quality?

I looked at it in the way that the 2ohm puts out 500RMS but I will not be running anywhere near that to power the sub, probably half of that power to get adequate sound without distortion but when running the amp at 4ohm I will be running it almost to it's full potential for it to put out close to 300rms to get the sub going to its full potential Wouldn't the amp be more loaded up running @ 2ohm 300rms than @ 4ohm 300rms? Some other information I have just got; Now to confuse you, If you want to run a single Type S 12"... To run your amp with a 4Ω load: You will need SWS-1223D - dual 2Ω voice coils wired in series To run your amp with a 2Ω load: You will need SWS-1243D - dual 4Ω voice coils wired in parallel If you have already bought the Type S SWS-1223D, it can only be wired up as 1Ω or 4Ω, and since that amp specs are only 2Ω or 4Ω, you'll be stuck with 4Ω since the amp is not going to be 1Ω stable. If you want 2Ω, you will need to buy the SWS-1243D Subwoofer, or another SWS-1223D and run two (but then you'll have 600w of sub for 500w of amp). Looks like I might have to run it at 4ohm

I have decieded to run the amp at 2ohm as it will probably overload or run the risk of blowing if powering the sub at 4ohm Thanks

Hi I am running an ALPINE MRP M500 monoblock amp which is rated at '500W RMS x 1 (2 ohm @ 14.4V) and/or 300W RMS x 1 (4 ohm @ 14.4V)' It's going to be powering a 12" ALPINE TYPE-S sub which is rated at 'Peak Power Handling: 900 Watts and/or RMS Power Handling: 300 Watts / Power Range: 50 - 300 Watts' I'm confused about 2ohm/4ohm and all this tech stuff so just want to know what the best way is to run this sub, at 2ohm or 4ohm? Wiring it up is no issue, it's just with the power handling I don't know which would sound/perform better. Obviously with the amp running at 4ohm it will be putting out 300rms which is perfectly matched to the subwoofer rating which is also rated at 300rms but I have heard it's better to have a more powerful amp running a less powerful subwoofer as it performs better? Also heard that running the amp or powering the sub at a lower ohm gives better sound quality? I don't want to crank 500rms into it and blow it up if that's going to be the case if I run it at 2ohm.. Any help would be appreciated - I have included links to the full specs of the amp and sub ALPINE MRP M500 MONOBLOCK ALPINE SWS 1223D TYPE S SUB Thanks in advance

S O L D

EXTREME DYNAMAT x 1 sheet It's brand new and unused, I bought two sheets but only needed the one as I decided not to do the inside of the doors. One sheet is perfect to complete one Skyline door, exterior only, you will need a little more if you want to do the inside This is essential to have if your installing aftermarket speakers into your front doors, keeps outside noise out and improves sound quality inside the cabin More infomation here: http://www.dynamat.com/products_car_audio_introduction.html I don't have the measurements with me but it's pretty much the size of an R33 door $50 pick up as that's what I paid for it yesterday Melbourne, south eastern suburbs PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Thanks

Probably just a loose connection, check the earth, ignition and +12v wires to make sure there connected properly

Not sure what it will cost, won't be much as I will do it all my self at home. It's just the cost for the materials, MDF, screws, glue, carpet etc which isn't very expensive anyways. All the equipment I already have ready to go in just need to make the panels, box and floor and it's ready to go The boot is useless, I don't think I have got any use out of it at all.. You can't even fit a wheel in the boot except for the space saver!

Hey I am starting a boost install on my R33 GTR this weekend, running 2 x ALPINE amps and a ALPINE 12" TYPE S subwoofer. Looking at mounting the amp in the floor with 2 amps next to it, running a 2 FARAD CAP and a putting a fire extinguisher on the back wall, opposite side of the battery Looking at doing something similar to the install below but I have drawn up in paint the changed I want to make as I am only running one sub etc... Anyways, wondering what the best way to make a box is, has anyone done it and do you have pictures, specs etc Thanks

Hey man The guy at the shop told me they would be enough to do inside and outside of door (I called and asked as I was at work) so had my brother pick them up for me. I got 2 sheets but they were only enough to do the outside of the doors not inside 1 sheet perfectly does the outside of the door, I didn't do the inside and CBF doing it because there is intrusion bars in there so really hard to get to but it came up good, I just finished the passenger door about an hour ago I ended up getting an ALPINE MONOBLOCK MRP M500 to run a TYPE S 12" and a ALPINE V12 4 CH to run the FOCAL's I am starting the boost install Saturday night and should knock most of it over this weekend so will see how it goes

You won't be able to run the injectors without the remap. You would only upgrade injectors if your were upgrading the turbo as well BOSCH pump will run fine with or without a retune

I have recently purchased FOCAL 165AI and 165 CA1, for the set they cost me $350 brand new so $300 for just the front splits is a bit steep in my opinion Also I bought 2 rolls of dynamat @ $50 ea which is all you will need to do the inside and outside of 2 skyline doors

Spider Solitaire on PC..

but does it chirp 2nd?

Maybe its like one of those things where you see other peoples midnight purple GTR's and they look awesome but once you get your own one you just get over it.. I don't know but I want silver again, I am tempted to paint my GTR silver but I CBF prepping the thing It's tempting man because the colour isn't far off what it is now but CBF really, I think I want to go with a lighter colour That's not a bad colour, looks great in the sunlight

Hi I am chasing one of the following ALPINE head units Will pay postage if item is interstate, can pick up from Anywhere in Melbourne PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 ALPINE CDA-9887 ALPINE CDA-9886i ALPINE CDA-9884Ei Thanks

Usually a few second hand ones floating around from $400 - $500

Gearbox 4L Front diff 1L - CASTROL SAF XA Rear diff 1.5L - CASTROL SAF XA Transfer Case 2L - Castrol Transmax Z Attessa 0.5L Power steering 1L Engine 5L

hmm I think its just dark colours in general, they pretty much all suck If I could get another R33 GTR it would be in either white or silver, those two colours are the best and much easier to keep clean. My R32 was in metallic spark silver and never looked dirty.. Yet I still find something appealing about midnight purple

I wish mine was midnight purple..

Do you have pictures of that strut brace man?

Update 11/11/08: Neons are gay

You will also need a decent amp to get the best out of the ALPINE TYPE R speakers, no point running speakers like that off a head unit I recommend FOCAL, I've been reading around since I bought mine last week, FOCAL front 6.5" splits and rear 6.5" coaxials, for the money you can't go wrong. You would be best to get an amp that suits to get the best out of them, I went with an ALPINE V12 4 ch which should be just fine Depends on how much you want to spend and what sort of set up you want, you would have to factor in installation, wiring etc if you can't do it your self. Maybe best to speak to an audio store and see what they recommend, maybe get some sort of package deal