abu

haha show the whole car subie!! Wheels look neat though - you need more aggressive offset or spacers I reckon

Questions: Is there anyway to check that the injectors are firing without removing them all? Also is it worth checking the voltage running to each injector from the resistor pack, if so then what should it be and whats it measured as - ohms? When I crank the car on the Power FC hand commander it says INJ duty is 1.9% then it decreases as I keep cranking it - does that indicate that the injectors are firing?

It will be fine but due to the extra flow of the high flow over the standard turbo the tune will be slightly leaner than it was with the stock turbo I advise you drop the boost down to about 8psi or under instead of the 11 - 13psi your running just to be safe Other than that its all good just as long as you don't thrash its head off as you can't guarantee that the AFR is at a safe level

Hey Raz Yeah man had the battery disconnected when changing them over but I will recheck all the fuses tonight just to make sure its not something little such as that Yep was a pain in the ass man but we did it farely carefully and didn't rush - followed all the steps and insured that everything was connected correctly. We also took the top of the plenum off to allow more room so we could get it all done neatly so I had to buy new gaskets (throttle body and centre manifold) before we could put it all back together so I don't want to go ripping it all apart in a hurry if it can be avoided Standard FPR - only fuel upgrades are GTR injectors and a BOSCH 040 which has been running with no issues for the last 5,000 odd kms mmm I really don't know what else it could be Prefer not to hook up standard injectors at this stage, if I was to try though it would be on the weekend

I just realised I have no plug lol I also couldn't find a plug with the correct amount of pins so I just cut the plug off and hard wired/soldered them all individually - I had no intention of ever removing the resistor pack anyways Now I'll have to undersolder each wire...

Thanks for that guys - I will just rip the whole thing out then lol Hopefully get around to doing it one night this week, its well overdue now

Injectors were cleaned and flow tested Friday evening and installed Saturday evening so not long at all ah yep thanks for that, makes sense now - worst case I will have to give that a shot Thanks for that Adam - I will check it out this afternoon when I get back from work Hopefully its nothing major

Good idea man, I will have a look at that tomorrow as well We only unplugged it so I'm sure the plug only goes in 1 way but just to be sure hey From memory I think it was more abut .4xv but I'm not certain - will check it out tomorrow

Yep thats setup right then Man I really don't know whats happened - could all 6 injectors have failed some how?

ah ok thats alright then - fkn buzzing noise is tripping me out almost like something is about to blow Yep I was almost certain they were the right way then I thought I stuffed up so I tried them the other way but still no go! From the fuel filter - does that fuel line go to the top inlet on the intake or the bottom? Yep triple checked the CAS, even unplugged it and plugged it back in. All sensors are good according to Mr. PFC HC EDIT: rechecked the fuel lines and they are all good, definitely plugged in the right way

Also if I am putting the standard injectors in - what do I do about the resistor pack? I CBF putting the stock injectors back in and changing the wiring again!

Yeah I'm not entirely convinced the fuel rail is holding sufficient pressure - I don't know if thats because the fuel is too low in the tank or there is a leak I can't see any leak anywhere nor smell it and I don't see why the fuel would be too low all of a sudden but then again stupid things have been known to happen so tomorrow I will put another 5L of fuel in and try again Fuel pump is a BOSCH 040 and I know it had a heap more pressure in the lines when I took the rail off to change the injectors, it pissed out a heap of fuel but now its just not doing the same I may try and disconnect the lines and prime the pump then to see what happens Yep running a Z32 AFM which is selected on the Power FC. Thing is the car was running perfect before I stopped it to install the injectors thats why I'm not sure on what exactly has gone wrong I just reread through your wiring diagram/install on GTR injectors and I have followed it exactly as its written - we removed the whole rail and part of the loom to hook up the resistor and I soldered each wire my self so I'm certain its right Also double checked wires to resistor and they all seem correct My INJ Corr on the PFC is still still to 1.000 as per normal - haven't touched that but the rest is (SETTING>INJECTOR) 58.55 and -0.12 from No.1 - No.6 Would really appreciate if you could check yours for me though, would be a great help Question: Does your RB20 making like a buzzing style noise when the ignition is on? Mines making this very faint buzzing noise which it wasn't doing before - is it the resistor pack?

Hey Finished installing my GTR injectors and resistor pack onto my RB20 but the car won't start now I have setup the Power FC as below, if its incorrect can someone please correct me Old SIZE / New Size = Correction 260cc / 444cc = 58.558% New Latency - Old Latency = Latency Correction 0.772msec - 0.89ms = -0.118 Then I went through the below options and entered the above values There is definitely spark - checked that The resistor pack has +12v running to it - checked that I tried changing the fuel lines around thinking they may be incorrect - that resulted in the fuel pump barely priming and still no signs of the engine firing Fuel lines hooked up the normal way - fuel pump primes as per normal but engine still doesn't sound like its going to fire There is enough fuel as I drove it before I parked it - half way between E and 1/4 tank Injectors were cleaned and flow tested prior to install and they came up perfect Did a sensor check on the Power FC and everything seems normal as below All the plugs are plugged in as they should be I can't smell any fuel in the cylinder or see any fuel on the spark plug which is a bit of a worry When I removed the fuel line there wasn't a great deal of fuel in the line - from memory the top had nothing and the bottom only had a little bit When I crank the engine over the injector duty rises up to about 1.9% then slowly decreases down to about 0.4% as the engine keeps turning over I'm really out of ideas now so any help would be much appreciated

Hey I am finally getting around to taking my guard lining out because my wheels are scraping the crap out of them The wheels themselves are 18 x 8.5" + 28 I'm just wondering if anyone has any tips on removing guard lining and do I need to remove all of it or just a section or so? It's to hard to tell which part of it is actually touching because the car is so low, all I know is that with the ride height it keeps scraping over every bump I don't want to do any cutting as I may want to reinstall them at a later stage so would like to keep them in good condition Also if I remove the entire guard lining will I need to do anything else such as insulate the wiring loom or will it be ok?

You can use the port off the manifold that connects to the fuel reg T piece that line and run it from there

Can't believe your selling James, one of the finest GTR's on the road and very original Have seen this car in real life and its awesome, one of the best I've seen! Good luck with the sale, hope you get the price your after

Item: Nissan RB26 resistor pack Age: New Condition: Perfect Price: $160 incl delivery anywhere in Australia SOLD To Fit: (What car) Any car Location: Melbourne - south eastern suburbs Contact: PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Comments: You are viewing a Brand New and Genuine Nissan '6-Cylinder Dropping Resistor' originally equipped on the GTR RB26DETT engines. This is a necessary part for those of you wanting to use Low impedance injectors on a High impedance fuel system and is also a great item to have as backup on the RB26DETT engine as they are prone to failure over extended use. It is commonly used with the Top feed fuel rails and injectors for use on the earlier RB20DET engines and Later RB25DET NEO engines along with the 1JZ/2JZ Toyota Engines.

Okay I had a look and this is what I got according to your table Old SIZE / New Size = Correction 260cc / 444cc = 58.558% New Latency - Old Latency = Latency Correction 0.772msec - 0.89ms = -0.118 What settings do I got into on the Power FC to enter these values?

440cc GTR injectors will be more than enough, they will also drop straight in Save the little extra money and get the GTR injectors then spend some extra money and get them cleaned and flowed to make sure they are 100% working and won't leak or die once installed on the car I also suggest new o rings You will also need to factor in a resistor pack as the standard RB20 injectors are top feed high impedance and the GTR and most others are top feed low impedance

Thanks man, I will give that a try Its an AP engineering Power FC to suit RB20DET with hand commander

Needs to go - make an offer

Thanks again Issa I tried again today with no luck, shoved a screw driver in and tried to get it unstuck with no luck I will give it another go tomorrow

Hey I installed a set of GTR injectors onto my RB20 and am just wondering if someone can tell me how to correct the Power FC so I can drive the car to the tuners? What settings do I need to go into and what values do I need to put in or even how to calculate the correction and I will work it out my self Can I just go into the INJ correction section on the Power FC and put the values down from there? Standard injectors are 270cc and GTR injectors are 440cc Any help would be appreciated

Stock turbo is t3 flange Are you high mounting your stock turbo? If you are then don't bother... Either way you will need; - New intercooler piping - New dump pipe - New intake pipe (turbo to AFM) - New oil feed line - New oil return line - New water lines Other little things you may not have considered; - Head to manifold gasket - Some new studs - New bolts and lock washers - Other gaskets (turbo to manifold, dump pipe etc)