abu

My cousin and I installed my GTR injectors earlier tonight and it was quiet simple. We found it best to pop the top of the manifold off as it gives you a lot more room to move around This way we didn't need to pull out the whole harness, instead we took out the rail and part of the harness (injectors 4, 5 & 6) came out with it. It made it a lot easier to wire the positive wire along with the individual wires to injectors 1, 2 & 3 as it was out of the car and 4, 5 & 6 with part of the harness still on the car The tutorial really does help once you open everything up, it makes a whole lot more sense then Thanks Roy Just a question Where did everyone mount there resistor pack? I'm thinking of putting mine in the stock GTR position just without the bracket. There is holes already there and the space between the 2 looks perfect to mount the resistor back in between - will update on this tomorrow once I mount it Also if anyone is chasing a resistor pack, I can get brand new ones direct from NISSAN at a very good price - Just PM for details and prices

Item: RB20DET injectors 270cc Age: 130,000 km Condition: Perfect working order Price: $80neg including delivery anywhere in Australia To Fit: RB20DET Location: Melbourne - south eastern suburbs Contact: PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Comments: I have for sale the standard injectors off my HCR32 - They are top feed high impedance injectors and rated at 270cc They are in perfect working and were working great when removed - no leaks etc I removed them due to upgrading to GTR injectors Perfect for anyone having issues with there RB20 injectors as these are working perfectly

Hahaha thanks Issa Such a prick of a thing and I didn't want to wreck the leather by hacking at it Hopefully it comes off without much effort - the rest is pretty straight forward Just to clarify though, you don't take the spring out hey you just pull the tabs out so it doesn't engage anymore but leave the spring in there? abu bakar is actually my given name

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...amp;hl=rb25+r32

Yep, you have to move the bonnet latch, I think its down 10mm? You will also need to modify your reinforcement bar so the vents slide in through the bar and through the reinforcement bar as the GTST one doesn't have provision for vents Let me know how you go - I want to know if the GTR guards line straight up or if you have to stuff around with them Good luck

someone just take these please I have to much junk piling up at home and am getting sick of looking at it all!

haha I wouldn't have done that Issa, we were just messing around Thanks for that, I was wondering if it was just the leather part that came off or the whole plastic thing at the back as well - thanks for confirming Its similar to the s13 ones then, the whole leather and plastic come off together Will give it another shot tomorrow Thanks again

spotted yesterday, a gunmetal grey R32 on standard R32 wheels done in black nice sounding exhaust - was in Hallam KFC drive through Always see it driving around, girl driver I think?

SOLD I can maybe get 1 or 2 more next week if someone wants - PM me for more details

Item: Nissan OEM RB26 resistor pack Age: New Condition: Perfect Price: $160 incl delivery anywhere in Australia SOLD To Fit: (What car) Any car Location: Melbourne - south eastern suburbs Contact: PM or call/SMS 0416 623 381 Comments: You are viewing a Brand New and Genuine Nissan '6-Cylinder Dropping Resistor' originally equipped on the GTR RB26DETT engines. This is a necessary part for those of you wanting to use Low impedance injectors on a High impedance fuel system and is also a great item to have as backup on the RB26DETT engine as they are prone to failure over extended use. It is commonly used with the Top feed fuel rails and injectors for use on the earlier RB20DET engines and Later RB25DET NEO engines along with the 1JZ/2JZ Toyota Engines.

bahaha best idea so far

If your in Melbourne I will take that GTR bonnet pending condition PM me details

Hey Just trying to remove the hand brake sleeve on my R32 and the thing just wont budge Is there any special trick or method of removing these or are they just a general pain in the ass? Have attached a picture of what I'm trying to do - section I'm trying to remove is marked in blue Any help would be appreciate

haha looking good Tom - Its like my car but the NSW version Put the GTST bonnet back on!!

Looks tuff as man but I reckon you swap me your XD9s for my CR KAI'S

Had the same problem with my cousins wheels - only has that plate with a whole lot of Jap writing

haha you need a bit more practice at photoshop - but nice job

from memory the slave is 2x 10mm bolts the slave is on the drivers side of the gearbox so you won't have to drop the box

and what offset - it basically all depends on what offset the rims are

Same stud pattern but offset is a little weird

Sounds like the master is leaking, try bleeding it first though I would personally change both - master & slave

CEF11E does around about tunes if you want him too or he can do a road tune or even on a dyno (specific mods/tune) if you want to pay for the dyno time Dr Drift tunes off a dyno and he does REMAPS specific to the cars and mods not a map off someone elses car CEF11E is cheaper because of the style of tuning Dr Drift charges a little more due to dyno time I researched this like 2 - 3 months ago before I bought my PFC

Wish you were in VIC Good luck with the sale - its very well priced

Dr Drift quoted me $480 - chip and tune about 2 months back and CEF11E even cheaper than that

Or just get a REMAP done and save $1,400 on the ECU upgrade Get a REMAP if your not looking at spending alot - around $500