getrichster

Nizmo_man yes did that and cleaned earthing points too. After hours of testing with a muiltmeter voltage inside the car to the back of the fuse box would slowly drop to 0v. Found out it was the earth cable from battery to ground was corroded inside the cable.

R32 wont start no 12v Hi there, just got stuck taking the R32 gtst out. Battery was flat so tried to jump start it but after a few tries the whole car lost power not even the hazards or clock or alarm would not work. Power came on randmly twice but once tried to start it killed the power again. Tried changing the main fuse, checked all fuses, changed batteries still no luck. It has power to the fuse box in the engine bay. Any ideas?

Hi just got some 440cc r32 gtr injectors but arrived damaged. Can the pin in the first pic be replaced as some have broken off in transit in the second pic.

Both ecu's are the same but one is chipped so I wouldn't have to?

Ecu was tuned for as same mods just bigger injectors and vct which my one doesn't have. Would that make such a big difference?

Im doing a project in an r32 with an r32 rb25de that has been turbocharged. On the standard rb20det ECU it runs and idles mint but I sourced an r32 ECU Nistune ECU that was in a r33 with a rb25det. With the Nistune ECU it idles like its running on 4 or 5 cylinders and sounds even worse with a light rev. It doesn't look like the ECU has been modified for the r33 so is it the tune or the ECU is faulty?

Hey guys, my turbo R33 timing is 5 degrees at idle and doesn't change when move CAS. Is it going in r&r at idle? Is my maf faulty? Or is it because of larger turbo? I am close to maxing at the maf at 4000rpm I got a peak voltage once at 4.9 then car bogs down. I'm running s1 engine, s1 maf, s2 ECU, sard reg, gtr injectors, t3t4, fmic, apexi filter, 2.5 inch exhaust.

No I'm not. Will those metal collar inserts work? Or drop the subframe and replace them. Cheer for the reply too

Got gearbox swapped and the reverse idler had lost all its teeth and reverse gear lost one.

Hey guys, When I'm changing gear up or down anything to do with the clutch engaging the back of the car shakes and rattles. Very rarely can I shift and make it smooth. A diff bolt to subframe was loose so spaced it with a washer and tightened it. My coilovers are new and did it with my old ones too. Any help??

Can u send to Auckland, New zealand?

Already got yellow 440cc injectors in, unsure of brand. Afm is a pink which I heard comes in a series 1 gtst? Wish had a nz version of toshi. Coming over for New Years so will be buying up parts big time. Cheers for the help

For the de ecu? Can't I run a det ecu and remap it?

Hey I bought a r33 series 1 rb25de+t and it is running the factory de ecu. Ive googled it alot 50% say a series 2 gtst ecu will work, 50% say it wont work. Its really hard to find a r33 gtst series1 ecu and have found a series 2 gtst ecu for cheap. Anyone actually run a series 2 before?

Okay thanks GTSBoy not a good start but still happy with my deal. Cheers

Sh*t.. Are rb25de boxes different to rb25det boxes? It's running a standard gts rb25 gearbox

Hey guys, bought my first skyline last night! Heaps of work done to it but was stolen soo bought it cheap cause of the damage to ignition and wouldnt start. I got it started and found reverse doesn't work. It engages but feels like something is stopping it and makes a slight grinding noise in gear when clutch is fully released but doesn't move. When the car is off I can put it in reverse and let the handbrake off and it would roll. Any easy fixes or is it time for a new box?