R32Abuser

FYI http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/225053-for-the-engineers-hydraulic-lifter-design/

Just at a glance I would say that sky30 would have made the most. 306 RWKW IIRC. That or cubes ~ 30X RWKW

Agreed. After a few weeks of driving, I'll probably take it to Shaun or another workshop in mind to look at the top end issue. IIRC my lifters in the head on the RB25/30 are the standard RB25DE lifters. These have been cleaned/bled. However there are still one or two (or many!) noisy lifters according to the builder. I think replacing them could be an option...However, as you have stated, there is a difference between the RB20DET and RB25DE lifters. I just don't know how I can be sure without physically measuring them (or someone kindly doing it for me on a motor they have ) and contacting the company R33_Racer stated earlier and sizing it all up. Guess I'll have to explore these avenues!

Q45 AFM Greddy VSPL. Core dimensions I'll get back to you on.

Dips I've been told are like that on every car that is dyno'd at Morpowa.

Reco'd head and uprated valve springs. Can't remember spring stifness though. We have been talking bout the lifters being overly noisy. Like one has failed etc.

Don't have a boost graph. Will be getting some of these graphs off the tuner when possible.

Sorry 18psi. Apparently it was reasonably flat across the board.

UPDATE!!! Ok so Tomei 256/8.5 IN&EX cams + adjustable gears were put in. Car was timed using DIAL GUAGES. Builder said that he had to run 7-8 deg advanced on the intake side and 6 deg on the exhaust side from "zero" when the dial guages displayed that the cams were in the right position ("zero'd" as you would with a standard type setup). Car was chucked on the dyno...From what I was told in conversation, the ignition timing was measured with a gun so that the ignition timing on the computer could be verified. For some reason the timing was 10 degrees out (advanced from memory). I have no idea why this was the case as the computer was not touched since last time the thing was on the dyno. So the timing was reset in the computer. Few runs were conducted. Timing was played with up to around 8-10 times on both the exhaust side and intake side. But the thing still wouldn't make more power than about 250RWKW. Much lower than you would expect with the cams + turbo + motor setup. They took it off the dyno for lunch. Cooled down, then ran it again...Made about 5RWKW more. So all up it finished with about 255.5RWKW at an A/R of about 11.5-11.8. See dyno graph below. Still reckon its a timing issue?

UPDATE!!! Ok so Tomei 256/8.5 IN&EX cams + adjustable gears were put in. Car was timed using DIAL GUAGES. Builder said that he had to run 7-8 deg advanced on the intake side and 6 deg on the exhaust side from "zero" when the dial guages displayed that the cams were in the right position ("zero'd" as you would with a standard type setup). Car was chucked on the dyno...From what I was told in conversation, the ignition timing was measured with a gun so that the ignition timing on the computer could be verified. For some reason the timing was 10 degrees out (advanced from memory). I have no idea why this was the case as the computer was not touched since last time the thing was on the dyno. So the timing was reset in the computer. Few runs were conducted. Timing was played with up to around 8-10 times on both the exhaust side and intake side. But the thing still wouldn't make more power than about 250RWKW. Much lower than you would expect with the cams + turbo + motor setup. They took it off the dyno for lunch. Cooled down, then ran it again...Made about 5RWKW more. So all up it finished with about 255.5RWKW at an A/R of about 11.5-11.8. See dyno graph below.

What parts specifically do you need? I have everything on a short motor bar the block/bottom end... i.e. (intake manifold, exhaust manifold, head, injectors, Throttle Body etc.) I also have a set of standard rods/pistons

Item: R32 GTR Camshafts Condition: As well as expected from a working motor. Reason For Sale: Was going to use them for custom regrinds (Tighe). However, since then I have gone for a different route. Price: $100 ONO. Low baller's need not bother. Pictures: Available on request. That being said - they are camshafts, if you have any issues with not having photos, your best bet is to see them in person! Contact: 0401 317 009 or PM or [email protected] Location: Eastern suburbs of metropolitan SA. Address will be given to serious buyer. Postage: Can arrange - at buyers expense

Item: R32 GTR Camshafts Condition: As well as expected from a working motor. Reason For Sale: Was going to use them for custom regrinds (Tighe). However, since then I have gone for a different route. Price: $100 ONO. Low baller's need not bother. Pictures: Available on request. That being said - they are camshafts, if you have any issues with not having photos, your best bet is to see them in person! Contact: 0401 317 009 or PM or [email protected] Location: Eastern suburbs of metropolitan SA. Address will be given to serious buyer. Postage: Can arrange - at buyers expense

No worries. Like I said that is an approximate. Know of several (four other members!) others who have cc'd their heads and got 62cc or there abouts. Its fairly accurate "approximation" to assume yours will be the same. If you're shooting for 9:1, just make sure your builder/assembler knows this and machines the assembly accordingly.

Post should have read: Base timing is a name which can be confused easily.

Steven 62cc +/- 1 cc depending on what has been done to the head. As sated previously- always check. Zebra I was referring to the base timing. This was done incorrectly during the motor assembly. Hence the overall timing was then out. The tuner stopped the run and told the builder to re check the timing etc. After a couple of runs- detonation disappeared but it now doesn't make the power it should. I still believe it is timed incorrectly as per my post in the forced induction section. Motor is currently being re timed with new cams. Hopefully it makes some decent power!

Just put the CP 9:1 pistons in my R32 RB25DE head with 30 bottom end. Still yet to drive it or do a reasonable power run. Will post results as soon as they become available. Either way, make sure EVERY SINGLE measurement that can be taken is carried out. My builder/assembler didn't measure the head cc and we had issue with pinging. Hence we didn't know for sure whether its was too higher static CR. Turned out it was timing (or base timing) and CAS. Pays to make sure and check things before its too late!

Keen on heavy duty sway bar links... Can you get these for R32 GTST Front and Rear? PM me if you could!

I was afraid you'd say that

I'll see if I can get a printout tomorrow...if I manage to get away from work early Using standard cam gears, then how do you get the timing spot on? If using the standard timing marks is simply not working to get the motor happy, then what do you do besides actually measuring the rise and fall of the valve/hydraulic lifter assembly?

Dunno if its been said already, but when you order a new RB20/25/26/30 block from the factory, the flat face where the engine number is stamped is a clean flat surface with no engine number on it. It is expected that the buyer/builder of the new block stamps the required engine number into the block. Hence, the ownus is on the builder to stamp the "correct" number on the block. There are tests to reveal if the "grind & re stamp" process has occured. However, I'm yet to hear of a single story of anyone modifying their car in such a way and receiving this kind of treatment.

Haven't paid a cent yet...But I'll be making sure Im not incurring extra charges for the timing to be done right. Considering the motor was to be "blueprinted" and timed correctly to start with is argument enough. Problem with taking it back and taking it to Shaun, I would void all "warranty" I had (if any)...Something that isn't worth the risk at such a late stage in the game...

Timing has been done using the standard timing marks. Timing will be re-done using dial guages and whilst I'm at it Tomei Poncams (256deg/8.5mm IN&EX) will be put in. Fingers crossed!

Guilt-toy: I agree with you. Once I had thought about it all, camshafts really are definied by their specifications. And looking at the RB30 guide and comparing the RB20DET and RB25DE cams there is not a huge difference between the two cam sets. Hence, since they are so similar, they should make similar power. The only thing here is that, from what I have been told, these motors are more difficult to get timed "spot on" as a result of the different tensioner arrangement. To me I can't see how it would be such a big issue. Either the piston is at TDC or its not. The camshafts should be in the correct position accordingly. I have never timed a motor, so feel free to share your experience!

Nice! Might get there after all! Much headwork done?