R32Abuser

It was listed as 1150 (i think), the guy had a 32, but had been defected. He had both an AUTO 33 and Manual 33 Series 2 97 box. Car had 78k KM on it. I asked for 1100...he said yes, on the proviso i took both boxes...still have the auto box lying in my enclosed trailer http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=Gearbox thats teh link for the sale haha

i think the thing to keep in mind is that irrelevent of pistons, the reliability comes from the tune. Forgies will give you a little more tolerance to a bad tune, but at the end of the day, if the tune is terrible, it wont matter whether you have forgies or stockies, they both will fail. However your engine is only as good as its weakest link in reality. I have decided to go with forgies, not for the strength (thats a bonus), but for the higher compression ratio (9:1). They will give me better off boost response. I think there are numerous stock bottom ends going round with 300RWKW. As Sydneykid said, 1 bar of boost 6500 rpm limit that paired with a good tune, and regular maintenance will yield a reliable motor.

got my Series 2 97 model box with tail shaft and all the usual parts for 1100-luckily it was in adelaide (where i live).... As far as iv seen, the differences are minimal, when it comes down to it, if you could find a series 1 box for considerably cheaper id be going for that instead of a series 2 box. The differences wont allow you to break the box with any reasonably modified car.

Lots and lots of effort to do this, however is pretty simple once you get started. Pretty scary when u take the dash out to see what lies behind!

sorry forgot to say...R32 Gts-T

Thats the thing...im not after an absolute shitload of bass that your typical systems have...just a nice clean sound, enough bass but not over the top like some of the setups i have heard. Budget...is not all that huge, however it depends....i havnt decided whether i will leave it in the car once i sell it-if i do i will be willing to spend more 1K is probably all id be looking at spending. Yeh by the looks of it, they utilise a mini sub woofer, split and tweeter all in the front front doors....but i cant be too sure..

Hi all, After my parents purchased a new SLK 350 Mercedes, i have come to like the sound system arrangement they have. To my knowledge it utilises harman/kardon setup, but havnt been able to find the speakers, amps etc for sale. JBL are the harman/kardon car audio equivlelent but can anyone point me in the right direction/tell me what speakers etc that this car uses to achieve this balanced sound? I have searched (google, mercedes forums etc) but to no avail...any help will be greatly appreciated! Cheers, David

if only it was an internal gate...id be all over this like a bad rash!

rear strut brace available? PM me!

ill take the boot if its black!

hmmm I would have thought have a higher vertical load on the tire would improve the tramp. Drawing a diagram of the forces involved, if there is a higher vertical load on the tire acting downwards, for the wheel to oscillate or even travel upwards, the forces acting to push the wheel upwards would have to oppose a greater force downwards in this new subframe position. Strange :S yogi have you tried the bushes in the opposite position, so in the max stiffness position (full anti-squat)? That might be something to try, however my thoughts would be that it may harm the traction of the car in all conditions of driving (wet, dry, damp etc). I find that i only get axle tramp in the wet, or in the dry when i put full boot into it doing a U turn.

just because a suspension place fitted your springs and shocks doesnt necessarily mean that the shocks and springs are matched for one another, so i wouldnt quite knock option 4 on SK's list off... Axle tramp is caused by oscilations in the vertical direction of the tire, spring and damper system. Majority of the time its caused by the shock absorbers lack of control in rebound to "dampen" these osciallations as SK has stated. I too have this problem, have SK's full suspension kit and are looking for answers...my thoughts are leaning towards either my springs, or the position where my subframe bushes are placed. There are a few alternate configurations for these bushes to be arranged in and i believe my current setup is for "All round performance"...I would think positioning these bushes to achieve more squat (or reduce anti-squat) would be a cure, as to increase longitudinal load transfer (for and aft of the car) to the rear, and hence increase the vertical load on the rear tires. If i find a fix, ill let you know Renkin

Anti Roll bars increase your vehicles roll stiffness at either axle. The essentially provides a greater resistance to the rolling moment caused by cornering. An ARB provides a solid link between each corner of your car on a particular axle, upon which when there is a difference in wheel travel between left and right wheels, the ARB is twisted and provides this resistance. When both wheels travel up or down (bump or droop) equally, the ARB simply rotates in its mount and provides no resistance. The advantage of the ARB is that when the vehicle is in roll, the ARB can be used to resist this roll and thus allow less lateral load transfer (LLT) between two tyres on the same axle. This allows the tyres on the same axle to generate a higher amount of lateral force due to the vertical load upon the tyre being more evenly distributed across both the tyres of a given axle, than if a higher amount of LLT were to occur. The disadvantage of the ARB is that the independent suspension on our cars (skylines) now effectively is joined by a link and no longer completely independent. This means that when one wheel travels into bump (think driving over a pothole with one wheel!) the ARB will provide resistance to this movement and potentially cause the car to "dart" across the road surface following the road imperfections (To para-phrase Carrol Smith). The stiffer (larger diameter) the ARB, the greater this effect will be. With a correctly designed/combined spring-dampener and ARB system on either axle, the vehicle can handle without this darting or doglegging type effect. I have the standard Sydneykid Setup on my R32, and its perfectly fine for street. Only thing i plan on changing would be the valving in the shocks, and the springs to a slightly stiffer spring. But that is a long way off yet.

Not the best solution, as it tightens up the latch if you put too mcuh on and makes it hard to open the door! Just been experimenting with different amounts of tape-but at the end of the day it works as intended Cheers for the fix!

that is hilarious!

AMAZING! Fixed it in one go with some duct tape rapped around the u latch. No more noises!

R32 RB25DE?

would consider at cheaper price.... would you remove parts to lower your price? PM me

Direct quote from their website: Redline Lightweight ShockProof® A unique gear oil designed to lubricate racing transmissions and transaxles which see serious loads (not recommended for most syncro-type transmissions). It has excellent low-temperature flow which allows easier shifting when cold. May be used to obtain maximum power transfer in racing differentials which do not see high temperatures. Similar to a 75W140 gear oil, but with the lower internal friction of an SAE 30 motor oil. Used in most road-racing differentials with moderate power and dogring racing transaxles. That said, from what i have heard, it is a gb oil that is really only good for old and tired boxes where the synchro's have worn, and adding this oil provides a smoother change. The old "band aid for a bullet wound" type fix. My advice: Dont use it.

Tyre pressures are always a trade off between the lateral stiffness of the tyre (read sidewall) vs the tyre contact patch on the road Too higher tyre pressure will ensure your sidewalls are stiff enough to not act like a soft spring in a corner, however you also lose traction and overall grip due to the reduced contact patch on the road. Too lower tyre pressures will ensure that a larger portion of the tread is in contact with the road, however now your sidewalls will have a reduced stiffness, so effectively they will work like a softer spring than the above situation, resisting less roll caused by weight transfer. Keep this in mind

BUMP! Cmon someone must know or have experiece from this!

$20 and you have yourself a deal...PM me if your interested. Im in SA aswell

first dibs on vents when he gets back! PM Me!

PM Replied

I have a genuine GTR front bar for an R32 In primer and ready to be painted, In perfect nick besides a guard mount which rquires some plastic welding however i have the section which came off so i can get this done or you can do it, doesnt phase me. 400 ONO PM or sms on 0401 317 009