R32Abuser

the weights are all over the shop...some people say 1260kg for series one, and 1280 for series 2. Then some others say as per above...only way to know is to put her on a weighbridge really.

if your timing belt was not put on properly, you would know it! your engine would be blown or behaving quite badly, bad enough not to be able to drive it.

Ok here we go, ill try to cover all of it but we'll see how i go, drivers side and passenger door locks- Can you hear the motors moving in the doors when you lock them, but they dont actually lock? or are they just not making a noise at all? If answer a) then it sounds like the motors, and the linkages which actuate the locking mechanism in the door are either broken, or have come loose. I had this happen in my car. It is as easy as taking the door trim off (few screws and popping a few clips out) and looking at the mechanism. In my case it was the part which joined to linkages together via a screw which had come loose. I simply screwed them back in with a bit of loctite/silicon and she was as good as new. If you answer was b) then your electric motors in the door are stuffed and you need new ones. If you know what brand your alarm is go to the local autoparts store which stocks your alarm and ask them about replacement motors. You can even just use generic type motors but this can be a pain in the arse to fit. drivers side window- Similar to the previous answer, can you hear the motor in the door working or not? If so then yes there is something which has come loose regarding the pulley system in the door which moves the window up and down and will need to be fixed. Iv looked inside the door at this stuff and i dont like the look of playing with it all. However, it can be done. Best thing to do is take the door trim off, and stick your head around there and see what is going on. If you cant hear the motor working, then it is obviously the motor or both the motor and the pulley system which is not working. In which case you will require a new motor. aircon-no cold air-sometimes hot-- In this case, there could be a numerous amount of things that could be wrong. Your best bet is to do a diagnostic check. Search something like "32 air con diagnostic" or the like, and you will get a list of things to do in order to check the system. This will spit out errors regarding several sensors etc and will give you an insight into what is going wrong. Failing that, take it to an aircon place. Drivers door hing has dropped a lot- I'm not sure exactly what you mean, but i will try to give you a decent answer. This sounds like one of the three pivot points at the door root has come loose or is not properly attached. Either that or is suffering fatigue. If the first answer is the case, see if you can get in there and see what it loose, if something is loose, tighten it up, but not too tight otherwise this will cause it to bind and make the door harder to close from excessive friction. If its metal fatigue, then the most you can do is try to bend the hinge up. *****HOWEVER****** and this is a big IF...if you do this, you will be work hardening (im assuming they are made from steel) the metal, of which the hinge or mounting point will only take a few adjustments before you excceed the elastic limit of which the joint will deform and attempting to bend the joint back will only eventuall break the joint (think like bending a paper clip numerous times until it snaps). Do this at your own risk! Hope i was of some help

sounds exactly like what happened to me, and it was AFM. Get your hands on a working one and borrow it for a little bit, see if it does it again. If not then you've solved your problem. If so, then you know to keep looking.

before you say do a search, i have found somethings out but not all to my satisfactory. I wanting to put R32 gtr guards on my gts-t. These are obviously wider, and then my genuine gtr bar will then fit properly, but from my understanding i will need gtr indicators as well. Someone also sed i will need gtr guard liners as well, but that sed are they referring to the flexible plastic parts that sit infront of the tyre to stop spray from going everywhere? One side has already fallen off if that is the part, so guess i wont need to worry bout that. Anything else ill need to fit these? if i have no skirts on or the stock gtst ones (NOT mspec), then these guards will fit yes? Then if i want to fit gtr skirts on the car, will these fit up fine? what about the rear part of the skirt as the rear of a gtst is less wider than a gtr at that poiint from what i understand. Anything anyone can add will be appreciated! PS does anyone have any pictures of gtr front guards on a gtst?! send away! Cheers, David

this is going to sound funny haha, do u have the fuel cap? does it still seal properly? As in does it make the Pfshhhh sound when u open it after driving to fill it up\? PM me if you do cheeers, David

I have a 33 auto box sitting around. Has no tail shaft nor shifter tho. Let me know if ur interested

a turbo is a turbine-it consists of a compressor "fan/blades" and a turbine "fan/blade" on a shared shaft. It is an air compressor whereby its sole aim is to force more air into the intake than was previously there, so in essence it is a compressor, but i see where you're coming from. I think the main reason why they named them a turbocharger is to distinguish them from superchargers.

Or just build a RB30?! hehe

well im planning to run the motor in with the stock rb20 turbo! it could get messy me thinks! but after that im putting a GT30R (0.82 A/R) to give me some massive balls down low and still have some head room left up top...then mite do some cams down the track if money permits. Your best and cheapest option to put on it till you get money/time is a R34 turbo-the biggest of the stock gtst/gtt range and still go for a fairly low price...until then-start saving!

it will be a ticking time bomb haha

more or less going with the 33 head is pointless in a 32 unless you cant find a 32 RB25DE.... for example, Cubes makes 308kw with a GT30R, which gets full boost all in before 3000RPM i believe and a set of cams (you'll have to check with him on specs)...which is around the 420hp range. This is with a 32 RB25de from a R32. You would reach this power level without cams however you would require a larger turbo or larger A/R on a GT30 to push the appropriate flow, which lessens your low down response and is more ideal for higher end RPM power-something you don't want. As what has been said, go with the R32 RB25DE. Its easier to fit in the car, and the small (read very small) gain to be had from using vct, is not worth the hassles you would have to go through to fit it in a 32/ceffy.

Keeping VCT will only make it more expensive due to tapping to feed, and needing an RB25DET ecu to run it rather than your RB20 ecu that you have which can be remapped. Whereas teh RB25DET ecu cannot or is more difficult. As you said you can get a VG30DET comp to run the 33 head, but at the end of the day id personally rather go with a PFC. If its going in a car which had a RB20DET, go with the R32 RB25DE head...trust me it will cause you less headaches in the long run. VCT isnt that great in the scheme of things, and if you ever want to do cams you lose this ability anyway.

Nissan is your first bet but be prepared to bend over and apply lube if your after a genuine plastic bar ha ha! Otherwise your just going to have to wait to find one on here or any other forum. Only other option is a fiberglass copy which can be bought from traders on here or any other foums...you just have to look.

it all depends on the car its going into... R32-the R32 RB25DE head is the pick as its almost as simple as taking everything off your RB20DET and putting it on the RB30DET with no sensor etc etc changes R33-then you'd obviously go the R33 RB25DE as you wouldn't need to change any sensors. If you decide to put a 33 25de into a 32, you will need all the R33 RB25 sensors and the R33 RB25 ECU for the conversion to work.... the simple rule is: Use the same ECU and sensors from or for the car you got your head from to make life easy Price wise, you will pay more for an R32RB25DE head as they are rare as i got mine for 800, but a R33RB25DE would go for around 500 The R33 RB25DE also bolts straight on...bar the VCT work

i have these on the fronts, and they are a brilliant tyre for the price. As for rears, has anyone had any experience with these?

Item: R33 RB25DET Auto Gearbox Age: unknown Condition: Fine Price: 150 ONO To Fit: (What car) R33 gtst auto, or r32 i guess but you would need to run a 25 auto ecu, possibly 34 but dont quote me on that Location: Adelaide, SA Contact: 0401 317 009 or PM Comments: As title states box is cheap, only thing noticable about it is one of the pipes is slightly bent, but can be fixed.

my to do list: My RB30 Build, 25 Box + modded tail shaft + speedo drive mod 30 build-too many parts to list GT30R + Z32 AFM + 550cc injectors Tune her up Some new rims possibly XD9's but atm this build is sucking me dry haha!

pistons still available? PM me

hks cams fit in a R32 25DE head? used much? if so what power levels etc? PM me info please

Blitz was selling some of these earlier in the year and i believe they are still available...Send him a Pm

Would buy this, however i am in SA, and you are in QLD, the freight cost would be enormous! Let me know if you know anyway round this!

in short, generally speaking you will fall just short (190 odd RWKW) from previous experience with a 25 turbo on a RB20, that is if you are using the stock 32 computer with no remap on a healthy RB20 etc. If it is remapped you should pull just a tad over the 200-210 mark but there are so many varibles so i cant give u an exact estimation. High flowing the 25 turbo will pull the power you want, however you will also get reduced throttle response (read LAG) from this higher flowing turbo.

i would buy ur oil pump if u would separate from the engine...let me know!

RB25 oil pump? Condition? PM me!