R32Abuser

Probably stating the obvious, but the pistons to suit the NEO head will be different (dome or dish) to the pistons suitable for a R32/R33 RB25 head. So make sure you get the right items! If you dont, your static CR will be off the chart! This is due to the combustion chamber differences (i.e. size).

For some reason when I was pricing everything up, to use the CP pistons I had with the stock rods, I thought the pin size (or another dimension) was different. Hence, when I priced them up (and a close mate also told me) it ended up costing like $4-600. As per my link above, a set of forged rods cost a touch more. Made my choice easy. However, it seems I may have been misinformed!

If memory serves, I believe this is the case. But you'd have to confirm as its been too long!

Well that changes things a tad... A stock bottom end @350RWKW in a streeter would be fine IMO provided the tune is in check (SAFE!!!). That said, you would be needing to run something in the order of a GT3582 on 98RON to get there which generally would mean high mount. Something which doesn't exactly scream OEM... 400RWKW would be pushing the envelope a bit. Given the "rarity" that I'd imagine RB30's are over there, yes, you would be better off going forged pistons at the least to save you the hassle of sourcing another bottom end. But, like I said above, all it takes is a bad tune, a bad batch of fuel (or both!) and you can kiss either bottom end goodbye... The Neo head has solid lifters, VCT (over the R32 RB25), more efficient chamber profile (LEV) and a larger range of injectors to chose from. For me, if going through the hassle again, I would take the Neo everytime. But your certainly pay more for them!

Stock rods are fine for his target. However, by the time you price them up to go with aftermarket pistons they end up costing almost as much as a forged 4340 set from SPOOL or similar...Or at least they did when I went down this path! http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-conrods/nissan/rb30-conrods/nissan-rb30-conrods

IMO you need to decide on a few things first: Power target? Street/Track (spilt 90:10, 50:50)? Stealth or Show? For example, there is no huge benefit going a forged bottom end if you are shooting for upto 300 RWKW. Sure, its a nice to have and it gives you a bit of insurance, but its not necessary IMO. If you're shooting for more power, then sure...But even then, look at SimonS14's drifter - was/is running 350-400RWKW with a std RB30 bottom end. If he blows it, just change out for the grand total of <$150 in parts. All of it is in the tune - run it on the edge, and you will get stung. This will happen with a std bottom end or forged. As stated above, building forged just gives you a bit of tolerance for a less than OK tune. Take it from someone who has built a RB30DET (forged), if I had my time again, I would have using a GTT Neo head. Its pretty much better in every way than previous RB25's. Also, if memory serves, using a Neo head with a std RB30 bottom end gives you a static CR of about 9:1 (maybe a touch more). This is fantastic for off boost response, something which is important on the street. You won't get a 9:1 static CR with a R32/33 RB25 (due to the combustion chamber size) unless you change your pistons. Skimming the head might bump your CR up, but I don't believe you would get 9:1 using a std RB30 bottom end. The above is my 0.02c, but just trying to offer hindsight to someone who hasn't gone down the path!

Locate - Yes. Troubleshoot - depends on how mechanically/electrically minded you are! There is a plug at the reverse switch (on the gearbox) and in the engine bay where it joins back into the wiring loom. Ground - I'd have to take a look and the wiring diagram to see exactly where the circuit is grounding. Something I neither have the time or the patience for at this time of the night.

Without telling us what width/offset your wheels are, no one can say for certainty what will hit or clear... Yes. Having adjustable camber arms will give you some adjustment to "tuck" the top of the wheel under the guard. However, no amount of camber in the world is going save you if your wheel width and offset are ridiculous...

dodgy ground? dodgy terminal/plug/pin?

+1 If I had my time again, I would have gotten a high flow for my RB30 rather than the GT3076R...

1. Do your homework and read the RB30 sticky: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/15420-r33-rb30-conversion/ 2. Read the RB30 PDF - its in the first post of the above link, 3. Stop being lazy and posting before searching. If you are really lazy, google would have helped also... / thread

Simplistically, I would imagine the following: Switch at the g/box globe at the rear of car fuse in the engine bay and wiring to join it all together... If you've multi'd the switch (when closed!), checked that the globes actually light up under a power source, then there is only the the wiring and the fuse to check. That being said, did you check the switch for continuity? I found with my box/switch (R33 RB25), the only way I could verify that the switch was good was using a test light and a mini 12V battery. Multimeter did not display/sound continuity unless powered!

Blitz return flow cooler - R34 item? Or? Postcode in SA? I am also in adelaide...

static%20compression%20ratio%20calculator.xlsx This is the one I created to roughly calculate mine...forget about some of the information there. Obviously key in your inputs and it should spit out a number for the static CR....

dimensions?

Its in the title of the thread...SA

Yup looked at that and assumed as such... Mate seemed to think one curve was stock (lower output) vs hi-flow. I said that I would find it hard to believe and that its hardly worth the upgrade if a standard turbo can make ~230RWKW reliably

Big difference in volume?

Different curves = hi and low boost runs?

I purchased a 16" X 8" X 5" magnaflow item for $200. 3in inlet and outlet and I can guarantee you its a straight through muffler. Pretty much looks like the above ^^^ My reasoning for going this muffler was that it was the largest middle muffler (cross sectional area and length) I could find without going custom. As per my post above, you can fit a slightly bigger item under the car but I was unable to find suitable off the shelf items without going custom. Custom = $$$...

To add to the above, I know of several examples where the 10-20 year old knock sensors paired with both built and OEM motors falsely detect knock. When my built RB30DET started constantly switching over to the knock maps, I simply got Pete from Nistune to wire in a couple of resistors in the ECU which mimic the knock sensors. No more issues with the ECU pulling timing....However, no insurance against a bad batch of fuel. As GTSBoy has said, there are consequences when you start changing things!

? Forget to upload?

FWIW I'm running BP98 with somewhere around 9:1. Off boost response is fantastic (~230RWKW @ 4000RPM) with a GT3076R (0.82 A/R) and no VCT. Dyno sheet is in the RB30 dyno thread. E85 + NEO Head + VCT + 9:1 + Static CR + similar sized turbo would make a weapon of a street car.

"My AES 3" , 7" diam. rear muffler with a resonator is quiet. I havn't db'd the combo but I expect it to be legal. I did some tests recently and found that the combination of a 3" perforated tube fitted to a 7" diam. housing is about as good as it gets. If the housing is ovalised so the crosssectional area is increased resulting in more packer nothing is achieved in the quietening department. If the length is increased it will become quieter but there is a limit." If it does nothing for noise suppression, then what does increasing the cross-sectional area do? I might sound sceptical, but I just don't see how having more material to absorb sound will not affect noise suppression...

For any of those interested, I took some measurements under my 32 GTST for muffler sizing: Rear Muffler (largest size possible without interference) 18X12X8 Middle Muffler 16X11X6 (CENTRE-OFFSET) Keep in mind: - Depth of each muffler will depend on how much ground clearance you need/want - Main limitation with the centre muffler size is tailshaft clearance. Running a "centre-offset" muffler appears to allow largest muffler possible without creating an interference.